Plowboy

What about modifying a set of SBC headers?

Thanx David! Actually, those inner fenderwells are wrong for '80 and up Fords. I should have changed it. But, I wasn't up for the task.

No, the black is very thin. I also foiled the section on the body of the tail light.

I built this model probably 15+ years ago. Maybe longer. I had bought an '81 F-150 High Roller on ebay. But, when I got it, it was missing the bed floor and a couple of other pieces. I got a partial refund. But, I had a model that I couldn't build. So, I decided to use the High Roller parts on this Bronco. I did quite a bit of work on it. I filled the floor, scratch built an exhaust, firewall, push bar, step bars, roll bar and sub box. The little 302 got ditched in favor of a 351C from a Monogram NASCAR. I mixed the tan and sprayed it with an airbrush. The rest was painted with Testors Boyd's Teal. Then covered with a coat of clear. Thanx for checking it out!

Thanx! I painted the inside of the tail light. I did it with a brush. I went over the whole thing with thinned flat black. Then I went over the center section again to make it darker.

I would try your idea out on a scrap windshield to see what it does. Only other idea I would have is paint the outside red and the inside black. Which Beretta are you building? I built one not long ago that had the tail light molded in clear red. I painted the inside black. It looked pretty convincing.

Here's mine.

I got a chance to look at my original and reissue of this kit and both have the same door panels and other parts for the 427 Fairlane. Both have lug nut detail on the steel wheels. It's odd that this issue would have the wrong door panels. Robert, could you post a photo of the door panels in this issue?

I have a set detail painted somewhere in the stash. I'll see if I can find them and take a photo.

I got some primer shot on the Nova. Besides the rushed/rough work at the base of the C pillars, I'm pretty happy with the way it looks. I'm going to have to erase the work at the base of the C pillars and start over. I also need to make an adjustment on the trailing edge of the C pillars. I also need to do some more sanding on the roof. It still has too much crown on the sides. The overhead view of the roof is much better.

To me, the Ertl diecast doesn't look nearly as good as the AMT kit. Some things that immediately jump out at me are the roof, missing slots in the hood, the too high rear wheel openings and the FORD letters on the tailgate.

I have an original issue and a reissue in the stash. I'll have to check them out when I get a chance.

The closest chassis I know of with the funny car cage around the driver is the one from the Oldsmobile P/S kits. The wheelbase should be fairly close as well as the width.

On the world license plate site, before I print, I just click on reduce 25% and print. They come out just the right size. After I print, I go over the paper with clear packing tape on both sides of it. Then just cut them out with scissors.

That's a cool build and some good info Tony! I wonder if swapping the frame clip from the T-Bolt would make installing the headers easier? I made a set of headers from copper wire for one several years ago.

Yep. I got that detail wrong on the two I built twenty plus years ago. But, I didn't have the 'net back then and didn't know any better. Something this photo illustrates well is the joints in the trim. Something I now study at foil time.

The headers from the '64 T-Bolt should be almost a drop in.

Thanx Tim! I recently found some good photos that show details that I had missed before. This one shows the step up above the beltline well. Also, note the detail at the bottom of the C pillar. Something I also noticed in this photo is that the lip above the beltline is actually rounded instead of squared off like I have it currently. Here's a few more views. Also, it looks like the B pillar is a little too vertical. I do still have to add the vent window detail to the A pillar section as well as the bottom. Still have a few tweaks to do here and there.

Thanx Carl! It's getting closer! But, it's been a battle! I think I have a happy medium on the side profile. It doesn't immediately look chopped. But, when you look closely, you can see that it is. It may look worse with primer on it or it may look better. I'm actually pretty close to being able to shoot a first coat. I know this is a gasser. But, I don't understand why there's absolutely no badging molded into the body. No scripts. Nothing. I'm guessing they're on the decal sheet?

The Dick Landy Dart has Cragars with spinner caps. They're a separate piece. The easier to obtain Hemi Dart should have the same wheels. But, I can't confirm that since they're missing from my kit. Maybe someone that has one that's complete can confirm.

I may do a build thread if I can get the roof fixed. I have begun the correction process. I'm actually farther along than these photos. I had to add more styrene to the rear of the C pillars as the roof is too round at the brow of the backlight both at the top and bottom. I've also replaced the lip above the beltline and the framing around the DLO.

You can still snag these at a decent price on ebay. I've also seen the price skyrocket.

I see what you're talking about there Tommy. Looks like one needs to cut the trim away from the grille, angle the fenders back a little more and add the trim back at the angle it needs to be. I'm going to check the Jimmy grille to see what it looks like.

It looks like it's raked back at the bottom to me. I wonder how the grille from the Jimmy would fit the pickup? It has separate headlight lenses.

The GMC was first issued as a LWB fleetside bed. It's a rare one and expensive when you do find one. It's the one AMT turned into the Chevy.