Plowboy

Thanx Carl! Your wish is granted! Almost. They had to make a few changes due to licensing. But, it's actually better except for the Duvall windshield. You can find more info on it in the Reviews section.

I can't. Somehow, the engine is off center just a bit to the right. I'm going to see if I can fix it. But, it looks like I don't have the room to move it to the left. It's only about a mm. But, it would stick out like a sore thumb if it was open.

One I'm currently working on.

Thanx guys! Getting back on track. I started by getting the breathers exactly the way I wanted them. I ditched the kit pieces that glue to the bottom of them and replaced them with .010 styrene. I'll hit them with a Molotow pen later. One thing I'm going to change is the space between the carburetors. They're too close together right now. Then it was time to modify the scoop. I'll have to say, the scoop was definitely glued well! I had to literally saw it off! Tamiya Extra Thin really does the job! I set the hood back on the body to see how much I needed to enlarge the opening up front. It needed around 3mms taken out to get it to fit well with a little room to spare. I then checked the scoop and determined that it needed at least a couple of mms in height added to it. A couple of layers of .040 got it where I needed it to be. I would have rather left it as it was. But, the alternative would have been a nightmare. Sometimes, you have to pick your battles. I'll see what it looks like when I get it in primer. If I don't like it, I may do an outlaw cowl hood.

That is soooo danged sharp Tony! I love the lift and bigger tires on it! They really make all of the difference on it. Nice and tidy work everywhere. Are the stripes on the seats decals or did you paint those?

The '66 will probably be your best donor for the chassis, firewall etc.

Mistake number two! Pretty easy to see what's wrong. As I was mocking up the blower, all was going well until.....I stuck the blower belt on. Dang it! So, I'm going to have to cut the hood scoop loose and do it over. I'm thinking I may have to make the scoop a little taller also. The breathers will clear. But, only if I leave the bottom piece off. Since I'm having to do it over, I gotta make it the way it needs to be. Minor setback. Better to discover it now instead of later. I'm thinking that the scoop will only need to come forward a couple of mms, three at the most.

If I were going to take anyone's advice, I would follow fellow member "Cool Hand" Luke Kenyon's. The guy has beautiful black paint jobs down to a science! He's done so many, he could do it with his eyes closed. Hopefully, he'll chime in here soon.

Thanx Carl! I've always liked pro street cars. It's been a while since I've built one.

Thanx Steve! I really like the wheels also. But, it never hurts to look around. I have one more thing that I have to do a fit check on and that's the blower setup. Thanx to Dennis, I have it now! I'm thinking the clearance is going to be pretty close between the rear carburetor breather and the hood scoop. Maybe also the distributor. I may need to raise the transmission or lower the engine. Or both.

I actually thought about doing a roof swap between the Ford and Mercury a few years ago. But, like a lot of other things, never have got around to it.

I have a '93 Splash, '93 STX and a '95 XLT. The Explorer is a '96.

Actually, the Ranger has the 4.0 also. My mistake. The Explorer has a 4 speed automatic. The Ranger has a 5 speed manual.

The AMT Explorers have a 4.0 IIRC. I have one that I can check. The Rangers have a 3.0. I don't know of the visual differences between the two.

I've honestly never seen the kit with the topper. But, I've seen a few built that had them. They were always the 3500.

I would hit ebay and just buy the B/FX Comet. By the time you buy and scrounge the parts for the stock version, you'll probably be out the same amount. The B/FX has the 427 cammer and the other parts necessary to build it.

One came in the rare AMT '77 F-350 and one came in the AMT Chevy 3500 street machine version. There must have been more than one street machine version as the one I have just has a bed cover. I would do a search on ebay. Surely someone casts one.

Welp, I've done all of the fitment work that can be done. It's now going together like a kit. I hope it still does when it comes final assembly time. I got rid of the goofy grille mount. The grille now fits much better. I had to do some trimming on the flange at the front of the cowl. It was keeping the hood up above the fenders at the rear. I have the door panels and roll bar fitted. I had to modify the roll bar a bit to get it to fit like it should. I'll have to find a set of seats that will fit. The larger transmission tunnel and door bar keeps the seats from fitting. They're pretty wide anyway. I got rid of the crooked gas cap. The body is now ready to be sanded and get the final primer. While it's drying, I can work on the rest to get it ready for primer. And..... Dennis can now rest easy as I've decided to stick with these wheels. I'm still rolling around other color options in my head. I'm thinking the interior will get black no matter which color I go with. I'm kinda thinking about doing the two tone like this car. I believe it will maybe help hide the chop. But, I'm not sure.

I know what you mean Rich. For me, it depends on the model. Some of the most fun builds I've had are those with a one piece chassis. When they're setting on a shelf, they look just as good as those with a detailed chassis.

Looks good so far Rich! If you want a better chassis, check the one that comes in the Revell '66 Suburban. You would have to lengthen it to fit the long wheelbase you have. But, you would have a much nicer chassis under it.

That's pretty much the same way I do it. I haven't torn any decals yet. I guess I'm just going to have to get used to using high quality decals. ?

No. I slide them off of backing paper onto the model. It's just that they want to set so quickly is what I'm not used to. I did alright with them. But, I sure had to work quickly with them. Like Gareth said, there's no room for error.

That is one serious looking old Ford truck! I started one of these years ago. I was converting the 460 to a Powerstroke. But, I lost interest. Your build makes me want to drag it back and finish it.

That's a cool little model Steve! It's always a good thing to take a break from serious modelling and just build something simple.

How about using a soldering iron? It would be tricky. But, it may give you the effect you're after. I would try touching the tip to the body cold and then squeeze the trigger until it began to melt into it.