Plowboy

That's just it. It doesn’t seem to matter how much water (I add a bit of Dawn dishwashing liquid) you apply to the body, they want to stick almost immediately. I use setting solution also and it doesn’t help. They do lay down nice. But, you don't have much time to get them into position. The fact that they tear so easily and can be difficult to position correctly doesn't make them a quality decal IMO. I had a hard time with just the small stripes on my '68 Chevelle. I can't imagine attempting the larger hood and trunk stripes that Gareth is dealing with. I'd rather have a slightly thicker decal that's a little more user friendly than what came in the '68 Chevelle.

I hope it come with two sets of wheels and tires!

How many people remotely familiar with this kit actually expected it to be a true 2N1 kit????? I'm just glad that I can snag one without paying a collector price for it.

Yeah, I measured them and the beam axle is five scale inches wider. As far as asthetics, I like the tube axle better. To me, the beam axle is rather clunky looking compared to the tube axle. Notice how much space there is between the spring and axle on the beam axle.

The wider track is mostly due to the drum brakes. Eliminate those and the track should be about right.

Wouldn't the beam axle from the '29-'30 kits be a drop in replacement for the tube axle?

Thanx Dennis, I appreciate the help! I'm not necessarily ditching the wheels yet. I'm just going to look at others to see if I find something that I like better.

Ummm. Yes, he did along with photos.

Not a great deal of progress as I've been correcting a mistake I made. My mistake was that I didn't install the suspension to the chassis with the wheels installed before fitting the door panels and dash to the '66 floorpan. I thought I had the chassis in the right position. But, I didn't. When I did a mockup, the wheels and tires were too far rearward as was every thing under the hood. It's a good thing I didn't cut on the flange above the firewall! I had to cut away the top of the radiator support on the body to be able to move the chassis forward and be able to install the '66s radiator and support. I also got the Rat Roaster engine and the 66 headers fitted. I glued the front pan to the body. The goofy T support has to go! All it accomplishes is keeping the grille from meeting the fenders. If I have to glue the grille to the fenders to install it properly, what's the point? The flange above the firewall doesn’t hang over nearly as much as before. I have the hood scoop glued to the hood and molded in. I changed the rear tires out for a set from the Revell '41 Willys pro street. They're a little shorter and more narrow than the original set. The wheels don't look quite as swallowed as before. The stance is a bit better also. I'm still not 100% on these wheels. The tail panel is glued and molded in. I filled in the rear of the chassis. You can also see the notch in the oil pan that was necessary to clear the drag link. I had to do some cutting and filing on the engine mounts on the chassis to get the engine to fit. I had to do some bending on the headers to raise the collectors up. The right side was almost touching the ground. I can live with this. I have a set of headers from the Revell '69 Camaro that I want to try on it before I commit to these. I kinda doubt that they'll fit. But, it won't hurt to try them. I'm going to do some wheel hunting to see if I can find some that I like better.

Has anyone noticed that the radius arm mounts on the McMullen roadster are chrome and bolted to the frame?

May be. But, they're basically the same thing. Ladder bars, however, are different.

I've heard them called both. But, they're the same thing. I always called them traction bars.

I'm probably the only one that doesn't like the Duvall windshield. But, I just use them for parts. So, that doesn't matter.

There should be a slight gap between the snubber and spring.

The decals in the '68 Chevelle were like that. I used setting solution on the body and they still didn't want to slide into position. Luckily, I rarely use decals. Like you, I have an easier time with vintage decals.

No, it's a small block Chevy.

Sorry, but the Chinese that cut the tooling aren't to blame. Someone from Moebius had to approve this mess. They botch kits over and over. People make excuses, blame the Chinese and buy them anyway. As long as this process continues, there's no reason for them to do better. Until they do, I'll vote with my wallet and suggest that everyone that cares about accuracy do the same. When a kit company can't even get a gas cap on straight, they have some serious issues!

I think in this particular case, I would use solder (non rosin core). Once bent, drill out the end, polish and install.

Yeah, it's from the '66. It's the Boyd's edition. But, pretty much the same as the pro street version. Just a few different parts. I made a mistake during the mockup process. Photos and info on that later.

Thanx Dennis, I really appreciate the help! This model wouldn't be the same without those parts!

I figured you had to have adjusted the wheelbase because it looks so much better!

That's a nice looking little Nova Gary! My favorite color too! I also like the hopped up six popper! I'd take this over the Moebius Nova's any day!

Thanx Dennis! If you have one, I'll make you a good trade on it!

That's a cool looking little wagon Dennis! It's got the '90s all over it! The red paint really makes it pop! Nice work!

This is why I didn't buy this kit. Every one I saw built had the jacked up stance and the wheelbase looked off. If the front wheels were centered, the rear wheels were too far forward. If the rear wheels were centered, the front wheels were too far rearward. Did you adjust the wheelbase on your lowered version? It's weird how the high version makes the roof look chopped. But, it looks right on your lowered version.