
Plowboy
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1/24 Chevy and GMC grilles for Revell/Monogram
Plowboy replied to camaro69's topic in Truck Aftermarket / Resin / 3D Printed
Those look nice! You should consider doing various grilles for the AMT/MPC '84 GMC "Deserter" kit also. A Chevy tailgate and front bumper without turn signals would also be nice to have. Another idea: since Round2 is releasing the '72 Chevy pickup, a correct grille plus the '69-'70 grille. -
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Plowboy replied to Dave Ambrose's topic in Model Cars Magazine News and Discussions
Thanx for the work you do Dave! Is there any way you could please please set up the WIP sections so that they can be edited past three days? Also, I no longer have a preview option. But, I can get by without it. -
Such a cool looking little wagon! The weathering and stance are right on the money! The Supra engine puts it over the top! Nice work Chuck!
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It's never a crime to build what you want. However, it is a crime to leave a kit in a box never to be built.
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History of Monogram's Ford Pickups 1980-1991
Plowboy replied to Fabrux's topic in Truck Kit News & Reviews
Some things not mentioned concerning the F-150 High Roller is that it also has fender flares, running boards and bucket seats only. No bench seat. -
Thanx for the feedback guys, I appreciate it! If anyone has a pair or even just one of the valve cover decals from the Foose Caddy, I could really use one. Somehow, I managed to put one on upside down!
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History of Monogram's Ford Pickups 1980-1991
Plowboy replied to Fabrux's topic in Truck Kit News & Reviews
The Monogram Fords do have the wrong underhood detail. The '67-'79 Fords had the metal inner fenderwells. '80 and up had the rounded plastic inner fenderwells. I wonder what underhood detail the MPC Bronco has? I've never had one. -
Nigel, one issue with this kit is the placement of the right front wheel. It's off center towards the rear pretty badly. But, it's a fairly simple fix. IIRC, I just just shifted the upper A arm forward. Not an ideal fix. But, it works. I look forward to seeing this finished up! I like the idea you have for it!
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No problem Carl. The paint is just now starting to come off the body. Then I have to do the body work over. I have all of the other parts in paint now. While I'm waiting for the paint to strip off of the body, I can work on getting the engine all together and detailed. I'm not going to a great deal to it. Just basic stuff. I did get the chassis and floorpan completed. I really like the contrast in the colors! This doesn't look like a chassis that would be going under a '49 Mercury!
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Thanx Eric! That looks like it works pretty well. I may shoot a coat of pearl over the primer and see what it looks like.
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Carl or Eric, would you mind posting a photo of a model with clear over primer? I'm interested in seeing what it looks like. I've always had issues with white paint. One little speck sticks out like a sore thumb! I had to strip this model because I sanded through the white primer. I could see there was difference in shade between the primer and styrene. My thought was white styrene, white primer, white paint, surely it won't show. After three coats of Pure White, I could still see the spot! Since then, I make sure that the body has no bare spots before paint. While waiting for the paint to strip, I got the interior together and ready to install. I really like this color! I'm kinda on the fence with the steering wheel. I had a Grant painted. But, it didn’t fit the look either. What little foil there is on it was an absolute nightmare! It didn’t want to stick at all! I cleaned it with alcohol. I burnished tape on it and pulled it. It finally stuck decent. Something that doesn't make sense about this interior is how the strip at the top ends at the door panels. To me, it should have been on the rear panels also. I may cut a strip and see if I can fake it.
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Nice looking little Mustang Luke! The wheels and tires with a touch of camber really wakes it up!
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I've never sprayed clear over primer. I guess it's no different than spraying it over paint. Think I may need to do a test spray. I've sprayed clear pearl over a few solid colors and really like the effect.
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No, I'm using Tamiya Pearl White. To me, the one coat is just a touch heavy on the pearl. I have used the one coat White Lightning before and liked it. If this next paint job goes South, I'll try it. That or I may just shoot a coat of clear pearl over the white primer. I think my plan of primering/painting everything together from the start to finish will work. I don't see how it couldn't. But, nothing's fool proof.
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Welp, nothing worked to get the hood and trunk to match.? I sanded them down, shot the gray, three coats of white and a coat of Pearl White. Still didn't match. Shot another coat of Pearl White and it was close. But, still off. So, the body is now in the stripper so I can start over. Next time around, I'll have the hood and trunk mounted to the body from the first coat of primer to the last coat of paint. I knew this paint would be a pain. But, I would have never thought it would be this much of a pain!
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Thanx Kit, I appreciate the kind words! I'm definitely no comparison to Harry Bentley Bradley. But, I do know how I want this model to look. And I wanted try some new things too. The extra coat of Pearl White didn't work like I hoped. It brought the color up a shade. But, still not enough. So, I sanded the hood and trunk back down, shot the gray and have two coats of white on them. Once they're dried well, I'll shoot one more coat of white, sand, shoot a coat of Pearl White and see where I'm at. If it's good, I'll shoot another coat of paint and a coat of Semi Gloss clear. If not, I'll strip and start over. I shot a coat of semi gloss on the floor pan and it makes the shine exactly where I want it.
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The worst kit I've built is the Moebius '71 F-100. Too many accuracy issues to mention them all. It's pretty much wrong from the ground up. From that point on, I looked at Moebius builds much closer before buying. I haven't bought another one since. I had hopes for the '65 and '66. But, they're not much better from what I've seen. They bear a striking resemblance to a cheap diecast.
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Thanx Sonny! I've got a lot of stuff done over the past few days. Too much to try to take photos of. Everything is in primer. Floorpan, engine/trans, suspension, valve covers and breather are in paint. The wheels and rotors are detailed ready to install. Sorry for the poor photo. I also got the first coat of Pearl White on the body. And I'm disappointed in it. The hood and trunk don't match! Even though they were painted with the body. They're just a shade off. Once it's dry, I'm going to see what an additional coat of Pearl White will do. If that doesn't work, I'll sand them down and start again. I had to shoot three coats of white primer over the gray on the body. I'm thinking I may have only shot two on the hood and trunk. The shine is just a touch more than I want. I'm going to hit the floorpan with Satin Clear and see what it looks like. I may have to use Matte Clear. Other than the mismatched panels, I like how it looks!
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The easiest way to simulate the seams for a vinyl top if it's going to be a dark color (doesn't work well for light colors) is to simply lap the paint. Mask off the center, paint the sides and allow to dry. Then mask off the sides leaving the width of the seams exposed, paint and unmask. It makes perfectly in scale laps with no strips or sanding. The paint makes the seams.
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No, I don't have a photo of them. Just search for any Monogram 4x4 and you'll see them.
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Looks like it will be a good time to get rid of the Eagle II and lowboy trailer I have. I bought them years ago thinking I would build them. But, I've never opened either one. I planned on building them along with a JD tractor and backhoe.
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You should have glued your strips on before primer. Just sand back down to bare styrene where your strips will be and glue them on. .010 is a little thick for a vinyl top seam. So, I would sand them them down to a more proper thickness before primer.
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Have you tried your wheel in a set of Monogram Good Year Trackers?
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Shaker cans leaking.
Plowboy replied to James Maynard's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
It'll still work fine through an airbrush. Years ago, when I still had an airbrush, I had a can of Fathom Green that had lost it's propellant. I drilled a hole in the can, dumped it into a jar, mixed it well and sprayed it. I didn’t even have to add thinner.