Plowboy

That's the first full scale 3W '40 I've seen! It looks very well done! I looked at using the '36 roof. But, it just didn't "fit" the '40 to me. In more ways than one. I didn't feel it would have a natural look with the different windshield and shape. I modified the roof on mine.

Then all you need is an Escalade EXT for the 4wd parts and suspension. You may even be able to use the frame from it. Just have to lengthen it.

It has the wheels from a 4wd. But, it's not. Notice that the upcoming reissue has them and it's lowered down. I thought the stock version was 4wd also as it clearly has one on the box.

Thanx Carl! Yeah, the Mach III is a pretty good parts car. The engine/transmission, exhaust, mufflers, frontend, disc brakes, tires/wheels and seats are all nice pieces.

That chassis has everything molded in.

If I were you, I would find an original version of the long bed Chevy. It'll save you a lot of headaches. You'll have the right chassis and a hood with no hole through it. The monster truck only gives you a body with a hole in the hood.

I've not made a great deal of progress. But, any is better than none. I hit the floorpan, firewall and inner fenderwells with a quick shot of TS-13. The engine is glued to the frame. Frame and gas tank glued to the floorpan. I made the exhaust using most of the pieces from a Revell Mustang Mach III and some .100 rod for the tail pipes. I'm well pleased with it. It tucked up nicely to the floorpan and is barely visible. I made the driveshaft using the ends from a kit piece and 5/32 aluminum rod. A test fit with the rearend showed that I had to raise the rearend back up some more. That sucks! I may have to change my wheel and tire combo now! I'll know for sure when I get the rearend glued in and do a stance check. I have the front suspension glued on permanent. I'm hoping to get the exhaust and driveshaft primered and painted today. Maybe installed tonight along with the rearend and shocks. Then I can see where the stance is at. Really hoping that I can keep the wheels and tires I have. But, I'll change them if I have to. At some point soon, I gotta make up my mind what color I'm going to use in the recess on the chrome strip so that I can do the final polish on the body.

Both Revell and AMT made the Cadillac Escalade EXT. You'll find all of the parts you need from either one.

Besides decals and wheels, is the Aqua Rod any different from previous releases?

It looks a lot better with the drip rails back on! More natural. One goof on this kit is the exhaust. It goes over the trailing arms and under the rearend. The rearend wouldn't be able to travel up or down. I didn't discover that until it was too late.

Only thing I saw was the 2021 Charger. Can't wait to get an actual new kit!

Your chop work looks good Jim! I built this kit around three years ago. I converted it to a three window, gave it a three and a half inch chop and three inch section. The only issue I had with it was getting the rear wheels centered. First mockup, it was 3 mms too forward. I moved the crossmember back 3mms. It was 1.5 mms too far back! Moved the crossmember forward 1.5 mms and finally got it right. What I learned from that ordeal was that the placement of the rearend is very sensitive to the angle of the pinion. Some members reported the same issue. Some reported no issue. It's definitely something to get worked out beforehand!

That explanation makes sense! But, I don't see how a body that's 11 mms wider at the widest point than the bottom would come off of a single piece core. I don’t think the bottom of the body will spread that far.

Like I stated, it's not necessary to get the interior to fit. The interior will literally fall in or out.

One thing that needs to be addressed, especially on this kit, is the cab corners. That sticks out like a sore thumb! It's not necessary to get the interior in either. So, I don't know why it's there. That notch is even visible on the GMC with the fleetside bed. It can be fixed pretty easily. But, it would be nice to not have to.

Grab a 409 and start cutting. That or contact someone that does 3-D printing.

This model has resin copies of of the pieces I mastered using the technique I mentioned earlier. The hood sides were done differently. I did a tutorial on the TRaK forum if you want to look it up. How different are the '34 and '36 trunks? I think I have an extra resin trunk around here somewhere.

I've done louvers a few times. But, not on resin. Only difference is the glue. The way I do it is graft the louvers from a panel that has them onto the panel that doesn't. I cut each individual row of louvers. I place the row of louvers onto the panel, trace around it, cut out the section and glue the row of louvers in. Then repeat the process until done. The toughest part is sanding between the rows of louvers. I made a sanding stick from sprue with sandpaper glued to it.

I like the 390 from the AMT '66 Fairlane GT/GTA.

Thanx John! I've never seen a roof as bad out of shape as this one! I think eight scale inches off on a backlight is a record! Personally, I'm done with Moebius kits. They'll have to really impress me to get me to buy another one.

Thanx Dennis! I wouldn't have had that blown engine without your help! I was around driving age when the pro streets hit the scene. For a long time, I thought there was no other way to build a model and built a few of them. I went nuts the first time I saw the AMT '66 Nova! I built one for me and one for my brother. Someday I want to build a better '66 than the one I have now.

Here's some other flat paint jobs. I really like how the paint on this wagon looks.

Thanx! The paint is Tamiya Pearl White with a coat of Semi Gloss clear.

That Tamiya Pearl Green is a nice looking color. I have a couple of models painted with it.

Moebius didn’t do very well copying his wheels. Or the Ford wheels for that matter. Ford eight lug wheel. Fireball wheels and tires. Moebius. It's pretty sad when you can't even get a wheel right.