Bills72sj

I am somewhat agreeing with Steve here. I started with silver paint. Rubs off of drip rails, doesn't really look like chrome. Did a short stint with silver Sharpie. Rubs off easier still not chrome. BMF is the best appearing and longest lasting. Stays down fantastic if coated with Future. Molotow is a recent addition to my arsenal. I love the ease of use and the true Chrome finish. I have not been using it long enough to have any longevity issues yet. I think it tolerates clear depending on which type you use. It works great when you have a raised ridge to highlight. Straight lines on flat surfaces make it look like hand painted bumpy lines.

Very nice work so far. Way above my skillset.

Sam, If you have not done the trailer D-rings yet, paper clips hold them at the correct "dangle"while the glue dries.

Carl and Anton, Thank you. I may do a little "SnakeFu" on it and reshoot some pics once my diorama is done.

Just read everyone's comments. I could share my personal life changes but there really aren't many as I am semi essential and still working. I would like to share some thoughts on the situation for you to think about. This virus kills some people but not 99%. The simple fact is, it will or will not, solely based on your health conditions. It is not based on WHEN you get it. Your exposure could have been two weeks ago or 4 months from now. The end result will be exactly the same until they come up with a treatment or vaccine (which may have its own issues). Locking everyone down only does one thing. It keeps the health care system from being overrun which could occur if EVERYONE got it all at the same time. The lockdown may delay, but not prevent your exposure. With that being said. Being locked up can very well prolong the lives of those at risk. If they can arrange their lives to be isolated from the rest of the world and can tolerate it, good for them. The problem is now that it is ABUNDANTLY CLEAR the health care system is NOT in danger of being overwhelmed (even in NYC). The lock down has served its purpose. Let the rest of us get back to our normal lives. As an aside, for those of you wearing masks in public, what are the odds that NO ONE (you or anyone else in the public) is touching their masks. Because if you touch the outside of it and assume it has virus on it then touch anything else after that, what was the point of wearing it. Remember, you are going to be exposed sooner or later and you have a greater than 99% chance of living in spite of what the talking heads on TV tell you.

Have made a number inkjet decals recently and found this thread. Suggestions: Print decals and let dry 24 hours. When spraying Testors #9200 decal bonder, lay a mist coat and let it dry 3 minutes. Lay a second WET coat and let the decals dry 48 hours. The ink doesn't run, and the decal is pretty resilient to even rough handling. One drop of dish soap in a small bowl of warm water permits you to slide the decal around for exact placement. Use Q-tips to to tamp down the decal and wick up the excess water.

Build it. It will bring more pride and joy to you seeing it on a shelf from time to time, rather than having a family member unload it on ebay after you are gone. If someone else wants one to do what they want to do with it, they'll find another. PS check out ANY of Steve's builds. He sets an excellent example for those of us learning. Just don't be intimidated. Skillset comes with practice.

Very well done. I hope mine turns out as nice when I eventually get to it.

Quality craftsmanship. Well done!

Very nice truck. I like the stance, wheel choice and engine compartment detailing.

Unique with perfect stance. I like it!

I too admire your craftsmanship. With the wheels on and the body off, it looks kinda like a cop car(t). lol.

Thank you Guys!

I recommend scalemates too. It comes in handy when I am at Hobby Lobby or a LHS. I check my stash database (via smart phone) on scalemates to make sure I am not spending money on something I already have (and forgot about). It also reminds me I already have 182 kits to build. (Saves money for other things)

I would like to see the stock kit reissued with a nice chassis like the 69 Olds. Below is a representation of the 1:1 I have made years ago. As an aside, I used the luggage rack on my 70 Challenger convertible and used half of the suitcase to make a hoodscoop for a 1969 Cougar Eliminator. I still have the snow tires in a box.

Michael, Welcome to the forum. Paint on chrome hmmm... not sure on that one. Anything that removes dried paint will kill the chrome. Someone is going to suggest you strip it and repaint it with Alclad. Since it is such a small part I recommend a MOLOTOW chrome pen. As far as two tone, I just finished one recently. (see below) Option 1: Shoot entire cab base color. Mask with the best tape you can get. Shoot base color again to seal the edges and make any bleed under the same color as the base. Paint second color. Don't forget to seal up any opening from the inside for the second color or paint may sneak around and show up around your window frames. Option 2: Do your masking with Bare Metal foil and Parafilm. Seals much better than any tape.

I use a block of florist's foam too. I left the clear wrapping on it and reuse the same holes over and over. Haven't has any of the dusting issues. Though I do have to "balance" the load to keep it from falling over. I like the suggestion of a 2x4 for more stability. (I may have a chunk of 4x4 hmm...)

The pictures appear that it has great potential. I would suggest 53 54 Chevy kit as a donor.

Very beautiful result of the best looking Mustang ever made.

Very nicely done. I see there is quite a bit of chrome to detail.

Nice work so far. I bought a Silver '78 Cordoba from my supervisor at work. Comfy, but pig slow compared to my Grand Prix with a 455.

Thanks Alan, I got the main benches finished up the other day.

Thank you Trevor.

Nice subject. Following.

I have two of those to build. Following.