Bills72sj

That is actually an improvement. Mustangs did not look appealing until 67 IMHO.

Nice Trio. I need to try that.

I made my own from materials I had on hand. The key is width and lighting. Fan/Airflow requirements will depend on how long and skinny your exhaust is. Mine is about 25" wide. Before you use it, do your self a big favor and skin the inside with GLAD press-and-seal film. It keeps your inner walls and deck clean over the long run. When it is dirty. Peel it off and apply a new batch. Works for the table you put it on too. I had an unforeseen fortunate choice of materials when it came to using corrugated plastic sheeting. It holds freshly painted parts on bamboo skewers right above the action, making assembly line painting require much less motion (and boo boos) on my part. Note: Multiple parts IN the booth were staged there for in-progress photography purposes but, show how much width 25" can provide.

Thank you for sharing this with those of us who not in the hobby that far back.

Does every 65 Riv have these parts? Specifically this one?

Nicely done!

Oooooooh! That's purty! Nice paint details AND photography.

Well done to all the creators making this build happen. I looks like something the Ring Brothers would build. Now only we could get 3D printers to make glossy carbon fiber...

I like the progress you are making. I need to get back some motivation on my 74 H/O. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/170183-1974-hurstolds-indy-pace-car/

Can anyone confirm this? I try to avoid opening sealed kits until I am ready to build them. How many spokes does the wheel have?

Thanks for the input. You are correct that the license plate makes it look like two. While I have successfully opened the slots on both sides, I do not want to hack on the license plate to make it one big slot. I am going to quit while I am ahead. It appears however, I am going to need to open up the slots of the GP bumper too.

Very nice. I built one of those a couple of years ago with a red interior.

Thanks, I spent this afternoon working a little on all of them. The cut out hood for the 66 Bonneville got the pin marks underneath filled in and a parts box under hood frame to give it more detail. I did some research and found out there is supposed to be two openings in both of the Bonneville and 2+2 front bumpers. I bravely used my Dremel on the back side of each and opened them up. They turned out nice. I checked the interior patterns with Ames Performance 1:1 catalog and all 3 '65 upholstery patterns are correct. Good job AMT. I found better front seats for the '66 Bonneville. (MPC 72 Chevelle) My parts box had one lonely firewall I can use for the '66 but I may try to find a better one. I am going to try to get some bench time in tomorrow in spite of being on call at work AND having a darn cold.

Try household ammonia and a cotton swab as a test. It will take off acrylics such as Future. It will not bother solvent based paint. I had to redo the roof of my Chevelle 3 times before I was happy with it.

Thanks Steve, I just robbed it out my one kit. Just 2 more to go.

I have learned that some 1965 Pontiacs had clear Lucite steering wheels. I would like to incorporate them into my Big Girls builds.

If you say so. Once you get some fantastic results from an airbrush, you may never be satisfied with spitty rattle cans. As an aside, here is a can piercing tool I made to release the pressure without making a mess.

Since these Pontiacs are all different models, each one has its own grille and tail panel treatment. However, the tail panel in the 2+2 has the wrong, larger Bonneville tail lights. Fortunately the new reissue of the Bonneville has a custom tail panel (sans bumper) that has the smaller 2+2/Catalina tail lights. Spent some time whittling them to fit each other.

Cool Build.

Great build. You should be proud.

Your efforts on the wheels and and tail lights are showing great results. Here is my favorite airbrush after trying a few others. Big cup, easy to clean fan pattern and standard pattern tips. https://www.amazon.com/GSI-Creos-Procon-Trigger-Airbrush/dp/B0007U92MU/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3HMAUQ0LXFL55&keywords=gsi+creos+mr.+airbrush+procon+boy+ps-290&qid=1667532496&qu=eyJxc2MiOiIxLjM2IiwicXNhIjoiMS4yMyIsInFzcCI6IjAuOTcifQ%3D%3D&sprefix=ps-290+airbrush+procon%2Caps%2C139&sr=8-1 With the handle accessory: https://www.amazon.com/Iwata-Medea-K-200-Custom-Handle/dp/B002KQJSFA/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1J9CFV8RE5YWD&keywords=iwata+media+handle&qid=1667532590&sprefix=iawata+media+handle%2Caps%2C165&sr=8-1

Blue tape for large areas, BMF for some detail work, Tamiya tape for curves, but my favorite is Para-Film. Especially over bumpy or grooved surfaces. It provides excellent bleed under protection.

Since you are so good at this, do you alter your panel lining technique with lighter or darker colors? Or is simply deep scribing all you ever do?

Surprisingly, While I get the occasional cat hair on my work bench, I have yet to get one in my paint jobs. (I hope I did not just jinx myself)

Just start building. As you progress and enjoy it, you will want to try more challenging tasks. At that time you can add more items to your tool kit. I resisted getting an air brush for quite some time. When my 20 year old rattle cans started giving me trouble, it was time. You will see craftsmanship on this forum that is amazing. Everyone here will be happily to share how they did it. Note: there are a lot of opinions regarding clearcoat. Find a method that works from you and roll with it. As your parts box grows, you will have plenty of fodder to try new things.