AmericanMuscleFan

Thanks for your kind words Tim! Unfortunately I do not know him or his publications because I spent too much time alone in my basement making my models. I have only just started to know all these talented modelers (of which you are a part) since I joined this forum. I haven't heard back from him yet but I imagine he's a pretty busy man... Anyway, I'm curious to know more about his magazine so I'll probably do some research on this. Francis

Thanks Misha! I try to find a balance between my job, housework, a little exercise and my favorite hobby but be sure that I will do more of my previous constructions when time permits. It is never too late to learn about the pleasure of making parts in aluminum, brass and even styrene and be sure that I will be available (in all modesty) if you need advice my friend! Francis

Thanks Daniel! I had initially thought about painting the grille and bumper white but decided to use a light color for the bodywork so chrome will probably be the best option for this scenario. I thought that a light color will help not to lose the details that I took so long to do all over the place on this project. I'm not a big fan of chrome either, but sometimes it's an obvious choice, you have to use it with restraint when possible... ? Francis

Thanks Ron! I think it's the best way to make that kind of part but I realize that I have mentioned that I used 2 strips of 0.020'' but they were 0.015'' in fact for a total of 0.030''. It doesn't make a big difference but I wanted to correct the information for those who would like to give this technique a try. Thin 0.010 '' styrene strips around the edge help produce the illusion that the final part is thinner and more realistic. Francis

Thanks Tim! They are just simulated aluminum nuts (from RB Motion) without threads, they will be lock in place with thin super glue. Francis

Hello everyone, Today's update concerns the front bumper as a continuation of the manufacture of body components. My first idea was to do it with brass but I realized by looking at pictures on the web that the shape was not flat but with a slight crease in the middle towards the top so I thought it would be easier to do with plastic instead (sorry to disappoint my friends who love yellow metal...). I will probably use Alclad for the finish and I might add tow hooks later by using the carriage bolts to secure the brackets or by drilling holes in the bumper and securing them to the frame. I tried to take several pictures of the building process but don't hesitate to ask if you need more information. Comments and suggestions are welcome. Francis The bumper was fabricated overlapping two 0.020'' styrene strips instead of one 0.040'', I have found that this technique makes the corners more rigid and prevents them from losing their shape. I traced a line with a pencil as a guide and sanded the part on a flat surface to simulate the subtle crease in the middle. I added a flat part on the back to simulate the license plate embossing and two 0.010'' styrene strips to create the folds on the top and bottom. I made the brackets with 0.015'' aluminum and the carriage bolts are brass rivets. Bolts and rivets are from Scale Hardware. Different view (back side). A little fitting test to see if everything is correct. Different view, of course, I will remove the excess of the carriage bolts and I will use aluminum nuts on the final assembly. With the cabin and front fascia in place. The bumper is a little bit loose and will be closer to the front fascia on final assembly.

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Thanks for you continuous support my friend! I try as much I can to show and explain how I make my parts and the pictures are worth a thousand worlds as they say but I could always take some more of every step but I think it would add more hours to an already very long project. I will always be willing to explain the steps for a particular part on a case-by-case basis if anyone requests it. As for the final result, the pressure is on me to deliver the most realistic product possible while being aware that it will not be unanimous... Everyone's tastes and diversity makes what is done on the forum is proof of this and its reason for existing! I realize that photography is an art in itself and as with models, we improve with practice and we learn from our mistakes! ? Francis

It's so looking good Mike! HOK candy apple red on a brass body... I'm going to get my sunglasses for the final photos of this work of art... it promises! ?

Thanks for your visit and your kind comment John! The positive side of it all now is that if you come back every now and then it will take less of your time and you will have more for your projects. I am always happy to see a new member join the forum and better late than never as they say! Francis

You really are an artist Dann! Only a handful of people in the word could do this type of masterpiece! I don't know how old you are but If a supercar builder sees this, you're in business for a new career my friend... but I hope to keep you with us, I'm a little selfish I think... SPECTACULAR!!! ?

Good progress Ron! Obviously it's a good idea to do all the work inside the cab before the floor is permanently glued and I usually (all the time actually) glue the windshield before painting. It is easy to cover it with masking tape at this step and it is also easy to remove it after the paint is done when it is of good quality (I only use Tamiya tape). I make my own glass with 0.010'' clear styrene and I embed them in the body by making a notch all around its seat, it gives an even more in scale look when it's done well. On the other hand, not all types of windshields are easy to make and a curved one like on your truck is not easy to do!

That would be cool Ron! Salt Lake City is not next door but I will still have a lot of time to think about it. I agree it would be great to meet you and all of our friends at an in-person show. Pictures and e-mails are fine, but nothing beats real human contact and our achievements within sight! ? Francis

You couldn't say more true JC and it should also cost a lot less than 25 times cheaper than building a real one!

Good progress Steve, spending time at the bench on a rainy day is the best thing to do... it's much better than housework... ? The body looks great with 2 fewer doors, It will make all the difference in the end!!! ?

Beautiful! Looks like he just left the factory in 1968 when he was then destined for a life of torture on the drag tracks!!!

Very nice build, super clean and realistic look! ?

I agree with Steve's comment on the bare metal technique but I have to admit the result speaks for itself. Nice car, nice color, Bravo! ?

Thank you so much Tim! I agree with you and I was well aware from the start that the subject would not be unanimous because this model of truck is loved or hated, for many it is the ugliest truck that has never been done but as they say beauty is in the eye of the beholder! The tastes are not to be discussed and for me, it is one of the most beautiful besides that this one marked my youth, I have it a little in my DNA. I never thought I would spend so much time building a scale model and I don't think about remaking a model from scratch anytime soon, it's just too much work. As you can see, I like to do details but overall, it's too much work and it takes a lot of motivation to bring such a project to the finish line. I have always thought that it is not the quantity but the quality that counts but it is necessary to find a balance! I'm not giving myself a deadline but I would like to finish it before the end of 2021 and move on to another subject so you will have the opportunity to come back if you feel like it my friend! Rod ends are from RB Motion, I'm not the type of guy to take ownership of other people's work and these are the best on the market in my opinion. Sometimes I do them myself, but it time consuming and you must have a Radius Cutting Attachment (Sherline 2200) for your lathe. You start by making a ball at the end of an aluminum rod and then go on to milling with the rotary table set at 90 degrees. Make two cuts on each side of the ball and then drill the hole in the center as needed. You must then return to the lathe and machine the rod to the desired size, taking your time. It's easy to ruin all that long work at this point so you have to take it really slowly. It takes a tremendous amount of time, so that's why I think it's a good idea to buy them rather than making them (not to mention the investment in tools...). I do mine only when what is offered does not correspond to my needs, I save my time to make the countless parts of this endless puzzle... ? I hope my description of the procedures is understandable but don't hesitate to ask if you want more precision my friend! Francis

Thanks buddy! I'm glad to see that you still seem to like what I'm doing Joe! I am very happy to have your visit my friend, you always put action in my thread!!! ?

Thank you for your mark of confidence and your interest in what I am doing now and in the past Scott! I still have a few models that I made several years ago and I will try to find time to put the photos together but you should expect to see the quantity of details regress over time. I think they are still of respectable quality but I think my work has evolved a lot over the last few years and I wouldn't want to disappoint you... I will try to make a new thread when the beautiful season has set in and that of our beautiful hobby is at neutral point... ? Francis

WOW!!! The mock up is more than promising Ian! Your efforts are paying off my friend! Gorgeous!!! ?

It's sad that this great era of Pro Stock is over! Cars of all brands were so beautiful that it's hard to choose which one to reproduce... This one is no exception, I love the subject!!! ?

This is the kind of thing I love the most when an enthusiast tries to improve a part of the kit to make it more realistic! And what a difference...! Well done Greg, this is high caliber work! ?

Thanks Jim! I really appreciate your comment and will try to keep moving in the right direction with this build, hope to put some color on this thing soon! ? Francis