Pierre Rivard

So that's where you have been hiding! I just spotted this build for the first time and quite happy I did. You are showing us (again) what can be created starting with a very basic kit. Model on Master Daniel!

Hi Mark, I used these from RB Motion. I've had a small quantity for a while, very nice... very small and pricey but the blower assembly will always be visible through the hood so I thought it would be worth the effort. Description says it's 0.026" (=0.66mm) but the 0.4mm plug wires I used for fuel lines are a pretty snug fit. Still experimenting with these.

Thanks Mark. Toning down the chrome with the flat varnish + brown wash has reduced the contrast while keeping the variety of colors/textures I was aiming for. Getting there...engine should be finished today. My approach is the same as your's Niko, but the chrome was surprisingly good on these valve covers so I thought I could use them untouched but it didn't work next to the unplaced look of the blower. Better with the flat clear layer. Thanks Alan. I fear the engine build in every project so I make a list and take it step by step. It's the only way for me to slow down and avoid botching the engine. Definitely my least favorite part of a project. Thanks Carl. The barn find type paint job was a first for me and worked out quite nice. Found the sponge technique surfing the net so I can't take credit for it.

Blower assembly is done with fuel lines, valves and throttle all cooperating. I like the vintage look of it. First time working with a distributor from Greg Stegall. Very nice. Distributor fits behind the blower with less than 1 mm clearance. Measure twice... they say? True! Decided on a finish adjustment for the valve covers. Chrome finish did not fit well for a "working engine" so they were toned down with a flat clear & dark brown wash.

Pretty small stuff to work with. Hands are still steady but the eyesight is not so good. Working slowly at it and hoping my paint finishes will make the engine look fairly realistic.

I think it looks very good. Perhaps raise the rear just a tiny bit (1 mm). Love the HRM wheels.

Stunning!

Interesting question Bill, and you're not the lone ranger there. I think many of us have more challenging kits requiring time before we are ready to pull the trigger. Perhaps not a concern about our skills but more about building up the energy to tackle it. Two kits like that for me: Accurate Miniature Corvette Grand Sport and Fernando Pinto Alfa Romeo 8C LM. Took a while before I was ready but with patience and care they turned out fine. And if things don't turn out as good as planned? Well... it's just a hobby!

Talking of engine detailing. My attempt at doing fuel lines. Going mostly by feel, that stuff is too small for me to see it clearly...

Thank you Brian. I'm making an effort on detailing the engine as it pokes it's blower through the hood You are being too kind John but I accept the encouragement and will do my best not to disappoint. I have to admit I was pleasantly surprised with the finish of the body. Engine work is not happening so easily though. Thank you Francis Don't hold back with the advice. I sleep very well when I copy ideas from the master builders...😜

Can't wait to see the first reports of that engine fabrication. Can you make it a running engine this time please? 🤪

Looking forward to this one John. I agree with you, the FINA livery looks great. The McLaren F1 shape was beautiful and certainly did not need the overdone liveries we see on today's race cars.

Thank you for the kind words Mark. As simple as this kit is the body was cast in such a good way that it was easy to make a good replica of this great race car. Indeed I brush paint everything (because we now live in a condo). It took a while to get it right and the key is to do a lot of thinning and build up in multiple thin coats to achieve a smooth finish. If the body was prepped right I just need to do a delicate 2400-3200-4000 wet sand of the primer (Vallejo waterbased urethane) and 4000-6000 + Tamiya fine & finish compound of the clear coat (Vallejo acrylic). I don't touch the color coat. After decals I seal with Holloway House Quick Shine (my new Future). The Vallejo white I use 70.820 Off White (over white primer). I find it looks more natural and period correct then the pure/bright whites commonly used. Regards, Pierre

Should be a fun one to do. Too bad Accurate Miniatures did not survive. Very detailed kits and interesting subjects. Will be following jour journey with great interest.

And the back side of it, throttle linkage (where pedal throttle cable will attach to) and spring return. Not the best precision wise but it is all so small I can barely see what I'm doing...

Fuel delivery through a barrel valve made from 2mm square Evergreen. One inlet fuel, 4 outlet fuel & valve actuation through throttle linkage (which also opens butterflies in air inlets.

Leaving the excellent chrome covers untouched, other than adding Protect spun oil breathers. That was easy!

Engine components. Starting with the Revell 427 engine & trans from the kit. The blower comes from the MPC 7in 1 1960 Corvette. I modified the manifold to fit it into the V space and then fabricated the idler pulley bracket and extended & ribbed the casting for the power intake shaft. Lots of fitting but the basic engine architecture is in place.

Chassis done stock, as classic cars usually are at Bonneville. I tried to portray a barn find type of car with the underfloor sound but with some surface rust, and then imagine new suspension elements being installed to go racing. I tried a new product here, Vallejo Rust Wash. I like it!

No worries friend. I am also uneducated when it comes to land racing but my fascination with this type of racing is growing quickly. I admit it is a unique approach. I need this type of change to keep my motivation. I like having to research new types of racing cars. Just the tip of the iceberg. The streamliners, vintage and modified classes are as wilder and even more diverse. BTW how do you like the red Studebaker? Thanks Helmut, neither was I but more and more I realize that I need to cats a wide net to keep my interest up. I love trying new stuff like the barn find paint job I did on this one. Thanks Rick. Flying blind but learning fun stuff along the journey.

Another great racing car build to follow. How fortunate that you have the HRM wheels. Much better than modifying the kit wheels like I had to do for a 2D build.

It appears Ismael has a thing for yellow race cars. Rumors are spreading fast... 😄

Sorry for the delay in answering this Q Mark. Bonneville cars are as varied as you can imagine. Engines are broken in displacement categories, then aspirated or blown, then gas or fuel (anything not gasoline), then comes the body construction categories (each broken in sub classes). Main categories are Special Construction (Streamliners, belly tankers etc), Vintage ('48 and before roadsters, coupes, sedans and oval track), Modified Production (competition coupes, altered, gas coupe, modified, pickup), Production and Classic (1928-81 cars in classic production, gas coupe or classic altered). The possibilities are endless... and a gold mine for creative scale modelers. I chose to start slow and do a Classic Altered for my first project. Classic requires to start with a '28-'81 production, Classic Altered requires the car to have either a quick change rear end, a non stock supercharger (or both). Aero packages consisting of fabricated air dam, rear spoiler and headlamp/grille. Electronic fuel injection is not allowed in the classic category. So my 1972 Nova with a 427 + 6-71 blower + Hilborn mechanical injection + aero package would be labeled B/CBGALT. B engine (373-439 cid), Classic Blown Gas Altered. Here are a few examples of cars running in Classic Altered classes.

I love all 3 but especially this one. The splashy colors of the decals over the darker body really gives it the Panamericana vibe. Well done sir!

There's always hope when a new racing movie comes out. Let's wish for special effects that are not too over the top. I expect excellent racing... unlike the snooze fest real F1 has been in the last 20 or so years.