Pierre Rivard

Beautifully done David, as all your builds are. Congratulations and thank you for sharing it.

Wow, wow, wow! My vocabulary is somewhat more developed but that's all my gaping mouth is capable of right now...

Well that's an easy correction. Coming together quite nicely

John, this engine is simply wonderful to look at. It could be a model to display on it's own. I've done some weathering on engine and other mechanical components but I would not do it on this baby. it looks like it just came off from the rebuild bench and ready for installation before the Grand Prix weekend. It's perfect for your build. You inspire me to up my game on engine detailing. Thank you for showing us your process.

Nose job, before and after pictures. I still need to add the 2 brake cooling ducts, not sure if they attach under the nose of embedded in the lower part of the bodywork.

I also opened up the rear wheelhouse to make room for building up a flange. Going by my ref pics of CSX2026 like the one seen above, the idea is of a flanged rear fender as opposed to the bulged out fenders of a 427 Cobra...if that makes any sense. Thin sheet Evergreen strips glued to the opening, then putty using round side of toothpick to shape it, trim, sand, etc.

Finally got some work done on the Cobra body. The plan is for a series 1 in Sebring specs. The starting point is the Revell "62 Cobra 289" which in effect is a series 1 chassis and a body looking like a series 3 427 Cobra. I believe this kit originates from the Sunny/Minicraft kit. The body molding looks like a series 1 (narrow body) from the inside and a 427 from the outside i.e. thick fenders that I can grind down The front fender opening lips were just gently sanded with a stick to mimic the squares lip series 1 The rear were slimmed down with a mini grinder

Taking notes my friend, I'll follow your lead when I tackle the same kit (but different driver) in the fall. Again, I'll just copy your stuff! ?

Looking really good Jason. Great approach of setting the stance before shaping up the fender openings.

None

I wish I could find that streamer in Canada. This will look perfect with a bit of flat clear

Rich, you hit the nail on the head about the topic of this build. the last thing a Tiger owner wants to see show up at a club race is a Cobra! I wish I could have driven a Tiger. I've had powerful cars (Camaro SS, Corvette) and light agile cars (S2000, Miata) but never a light agile and powerful car. Must be intoxicating!

Mark, you are definitely moving fast on this one. It's a tough balance between extra detailing and length of time to achieve the model. Personally I have sort of hit my max on the level of detailing and have been focusing more time on finishing quality. One way of improving detailing without adding more time has been transitioning from scratch building to aftermarket parts. (wheels, seatbelts, engine components etc) I love this build. Thank you for maintaining your wip's

So I've decided doing CSX2196 would be a massive project with it's one piece clamshell front and rear sections. I'm going to go with the more manageable CSX2026. The first Cobra winner in the US at Riverside (JC did a gorgeous build of it). It was later upgraded to Sebring specs (as shown on picture below), eventually raced by privateer Bob Johnson (#33) then moved on to other privateers. Still lots of body mods will be needed, then I need an engine etc...

Because the body does not match the chassis I will have to do changes to the Cobra. Initial thoughts are to keep the Mark II style chassis (4" types & transverse leafs) and modify the body front end opening and rear fenders, sort of a CSX2002 or 2026 in Sebring specs (some modest rear fender flares, early style Halibrands & full windshield). However Mark's idea of doing CSX2196 that Ken Miles called "The Turd" should be investigated. Mark II chassis with FE engine. Still open to suggestions. In the end I'll pick the idea that seems most feasible with the parts I have and what I feel capable to do on the modifications side of things.

Sometimes carnage cannot be avoided...

Yes I remember now having fits with the too small rear wheelhouses. I cut them off and put in MPC or AMT Nascar wheelhouses. These Daytona kits need a bit of work but can be turned into very nice racers.

Mark, are you polishing the color coat? Look forward to seing that as I was not successful doing that on a metallic. I polish the primer and the acrylic clear.

This is really nice Gary. It's nice to see a non-blue Cobra! Thank you for sharing.

Great to hear you are happy with the blue. Looks like our painting techniques are converging. I'll try the silver/retarder adds you did for my current build. Thanks.

It took more coats than I would have expected but it looks smooth without brusk marks. Super nice! First time I see this 70.997 silver. Did it integrate well to the mix? How much retarder did you use and do you feel it helps?

I've been working on this SCCA Sunbeam Tiger racer at a very slow pace lately. Then I started noodling with the ice of a combo build with a Cobra. Imagine this fellow doing his best to develop his Tiger into a decent race car then has to face his predator: a Cobra. So far I've only got the Tiger body done, widened body and a more open front end. The Cobra I don't know yet how to deal with. I have a Revell "1962 Cobra 289" which makes no sense. The kit has a 427 style body with a series 1 chassis/engine. Work to do on that one... Suggestions are welcome.

A beautiful beast, can't wait to see it with the rest of the detailing.

Cliff, as best as I could figure out from research and fellow builders input, the car campaigned in 63 Mecom Blue (= Pelham Blue) and then Delmo Johnson painted it Silver Blue (a 58 Corvette color) sometimes into the 64 season. The color mix I did was my attempt to replicate Silver Blue. I think I got it 80% right. Good enough for this brush painter.

Absolutely Mark. More so with paint with metal medium in it. Polishing the color coat is not an option so it needs to go on diluted, thin and at least 2 coats with 1/2 hour dry time between them. This is like the opposite thinking to what we do with Future. You have time with thin paint to work it in position and not worry with coverage, the next layer will take care of that. I look forward to seing the result.