Pierre Rivard

Looking really good Jason. Great approach of setting the stance before shaping up the fender openings.

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I wish I could find that streamer in Canada. This will look perfect with a bit of flat clear

Rich, you hit the nail on the head about the topic of this build. the last thing a Tiger owner wants to see show up at a club race is a Cobra! I wish I could have driven a Tiger. I've had powerful cars (Camaro SS, Corvette) and light agile cars (S2000, Miata) but never a light agile and powerful car. Must be intoxicating!

Mark, you are definitely moving fast on this one. It's a tough balance between extra detailing and length of time to achieve the model. Personally I have sort of hit my max on the level of detailing and have been focusing more time on finishing quality. One way of improving detailing without adding more time has been transitioning from scratch building to aftermarket parts. (wheels, seatbelts, engine components etc) I love this build. Thank you for maintaining your wip's

So I've decided doing CSX2196 would be a massive project with it's one piece clamshell front and rear sections. I'm going to go with the more manageable CSX2026. The first Cobra winner in the US at Riverside (JC did a gorgeous build of it). It was later upgraded to Sebring specs (as shown on picture below), eventually raced by privateer Bob Johnson (#33) then moved on to other privateers. Still lots of body mods will be needed, then I need an engine etc...

Because the body does not match the chassis I will have to do changes to the Cobra. Initial thoughts are to keep the Mark II style chassis (4" types & transverse leafs) and modify the body front end opening and rear fenders, sort of a CSX2002 or 2026 in Sebring specs (some modest rear fender flares, early style Halibrands & full windshield). However Mark's idea of doing CSX2196 that Ken Miles called "The Turd" should be investigated. Mark II chassis with FE engine. Still open to suggestions. In the end I'll pick the idea that seems most feasible with the parts I have and what I feel capable to do on the modifications side of things.

Sometimes carnage cannot be avoided...

Yes I remember now having fits with the too small rear wheelhouses. I cut them off and put in MPC or AMT Nascar wheelhouses. These Daytona kits need a bit of work but can be turned into very nice racers.

Mark, are you polishing the color coat? Look forward to seing that as I was not successful doing that on a metallic. I polish the primer and the acrylic clear.

This is really nice Gary. It's nice to see a non-blue Cobra! Thank you for sharing.

Great to hear you are happy with the blue. Looks like our painting techniques are converging. I'll try the silver/retarder adds you did for my current build. Thanks.

It took more coats than I would have expected but it looks smooth without brusk marks. Super nice! First time I see this 70.997 silver. Did it integrate well to the mix? How much retarder did you use and do you feel it helps?

I've been working on this SCCA Sunbeam Tiger racer at a very slow pace lately. Then I started noodling with the ice of a combo build with a Cobra. Imagine this fellow doing his best to develop his Tiger into a decent race car then has to face his predator: a Cobra. So far I've only got the Tiger body done, widened body and a more open front end. The Cobra I don't know yet how to deal with. I have a Revell "1962 Cobra 289" which makes no sense. The kit has a 427 style body with a series 1 chassis/engine. Work to do on that one... Suggestions are welcome.

A beautiful beast, can't wait to see it with the rest of the detailing.

Cliff, as best as I could figure out from research and fellow builders input, the car campaigned in 63 Mecom Blue (= Pelham Blue) and then Delmo Johnson painted it Silver Blue (a 58 Corvette color) sometimes into the 64 season. The color mix I did was my attempt to replicate Silver Blue. I think I got it 80% right. Good enough for this brush painter.

Absolutely Mark. More so with paint with metal medium in it. Polishing the color coat is not an option so it needs to go on diluted, thin and at least 2 coats with 1/2 hour dry time between them. This is like the opposite thinking to what we do with Future. You have time with thin paint to work it in position and not worry with coverage, the next layer will take care of that. I look forward to seing the result.

Hold on Andrew, I want to make sure I get it right. You made the most fabulous wire wheels I have ever seen, then you spun beautiful wheel covers front and back...to cover the amazing wire wheels? Your dedication to accuracy is unmatched. Makes me feel lazy about my modeling techniques. ?

Jason, beautiful work and fast! If I may suggest, having built two, do a lot of testing on suspension installation. Some mods needed to get a proper NASCAR ride height. The rear is pretty easy by tweaking spring shapes but the front is trickier. Suggest you consider separating the lower arm (and attached torsion bar) from the K frame so you can move it up to lower the stance.

I also use Vallejo, 70.615 Ghost Grey. I never see any grit in it. Your's definitely looks thicker than mine. I would get nowhere near that coverage with 20% reduction.

With the right mods and adds this kit can convert to a really good racer. I love the approach you are taking so far. I remember your wonderful 63 Petty Plymouth and look forward to following what you choose to do on this one.

Beautiful combo. I love the orange color as you did it, so vibrant!

That body looks mighty good. There's something about the 64 Ford, perhaps my all time favorite NASCAR. Close your eyes... can you see it? Red Line 7000!

This is fabulous. You are very effectively leveraging advancements in 3D printing to create your own models.

Glad to be of assistance. The lighting was not very good for pics. The slight purple hue you see on the test hood is not really there. FYI I also thin my primer, with 10-15% water, then 2-3 thin coats, then after 24 hours cure time 6000-8000-12000 polish before the color coat.