70 Sting

Not sure if this is the correct place to post this, but I came across the https://modelcar.show podcast the other day. Makes for interesting listening on car drives.

So cool seeing all the wiring! Where did you source it?

Beautiful colour and paint job. Engine looks very real.

@Zippi I searched the net for ‘flocking’ powder but what came up was ‘embossing’ powder. I assume they are the same or very similar. It’s not so much a powder nor is it fibrous, it’s kinda like very, tiny flakes. The product I bought was Ranger Embossing Powder-Steel from Amazon. Supplies: embossing powder, white glue (I used Elmer’s), 1/4” paint brush and a sheet of white paper. Optional Supplies: tea infuser to drop/shake/apply the powder, pencil to trace the outline of the seats on the floor as there is no need to apply the glue there. 1. Apply the glue to a section at a time (floor pan, transmission hump etc.). You don’t want big, white globs, but not too thin either. Try to apply the glue fairly even, but it doesn’t matter that much. 2. Sprinkle the powder over the glue until it’s fully covered using the tea infuser, your fingers or from the jar itself. 3. Turn the model upside down and tap the bottom to shake off the excess powder onto the sheet of paper - you can reuse this. 4. Repeat for the remaining sections. Any raised areas can be pushed down lightly with your fingers. What I learned from this? Put extra glue on the seam where the floor pan meets the firewall - I ended up with a visible seam, plus it would probably look nicer if it was slightly rounded. A little more glue is probably better than not enough to avoid bald spots.

Really appreciate that. Trust me, the photos flatter the model. It looks way more toyish in person. The photos were shot in raw format and imported into ON1Photo Raw (reasonably priced software). From there I toned down the highlights, added a little sharpening and exported in jpeg format.

I took art all the way through High School… guess that was good for something. ;^) I can post the first 4 when I get the chance to photograph them. Also found the only surviving model from my teens. It’s a Countach molded in red that came with a battery powered motor.

@Snake45 Like this? https://tinyurl.com/azssxd9j @espo Is there a difference between, chrome, ultra bright chrome and improved chrome? The stuff I have (soon to be had) is matt aluminum.

Thanks for all the positive comments. :^) Paints used were: Tamiya TS-54 Light Metallic Blue, Tamiya TS-45 Pearl White, Testors Gloss Light Blue Steamboat: I tried using Krylon clear spray 2-models ago but something went horribly wrong. 90% of the car turned into a topographical map. I spent hours sanding it back down (to the plastic in some spots) and added it to the lessons learned list. The colour paint was also from a can and had been dry for days but somehow the two didn't play well together. I do want to try a super-glossy look on a car at some point, maybe with products from the same manufacturer. TransAmMike: The body and chassis were painted with spray cans, interior with an airbrush, small parts by hand. There were 2 places in the cabin that required the same colour as the body, those I hand painted with decanted spray paint (didn't go on all that well). The camera was a Canon 7D with 50 and 100mm lenses. Car was photographed in my backyard under heavy clouds just before it rained. Kept the camera at a height that would mimic where a 'scale person' might be viewing the car. espo: I have Bare Metal Foil on hand but it just wouldn't stick - even on bare sprue and after cleaning with isopropyl. I'm thinking the stuff was probably old? If I was more adventurous I could have tried masking and either hand painting or airbrushing the 4 chrome accents on the front and rear hood/trunk. SickBoy: I tried Bondene (as per a YouTuber) but it let go after a short drop onto the cutting mat. Probably didn't use enough - for good reason. I tried it for the first time on build before this one - a Ford GT40. There I was, holding the windshield in place and dropping Bondene along the edges. It looked like it was working great until I let go and realized the capillary action ran the glue right under my thumb and left a fat, juicy print on the glass. Sanding, sanding, sanding, compound and polish and it was still foggy. Coated the glass with baby oil and left it. I have not heard of Canopy glue or GatorsGrip, but will look into it. Also been using Testors Clear Parts glue, however, glass is in my kitchen now. :^(

Beautiful job. Enjoyed the video, too.

Hey All, It's been 30+ plus years since I've built a model. I can't believe how much the hobby has changed or more accurately, how little I knew/know. Back then it was the model and a tube of Testors glue. Probably like many others, covid got me back into it as my wife thought it would be a good pastime for my son and I. Five models in, I've made many, many mistakes and learned so much from reading this forum and watching YouTube. Each time I tried a new product or tool and practiced new techniques. The 58 Corvette is my best effort to date. For this one I tried using embossing powder for the carpet, modified the rear end to accommodate wider tires (I cannot take credit for this, I saw it done by a YouTuber) and tried airbrushing for the first time. After spraying countless spoons I painted the dash, seats and doors - they were supposed to be glossy but I think I was too much of a scaredy cat to lay it on heavy and wasn't close enough with the airbrush. I'm trying to work up the nerve to airbrush the body on my next model. I couldn't install the wipers because of fitting issues with the windshield-cabin-chassis. The dual exhaust pipes were also not installed and kudos to those who can install the lower rad hose. What did I learn from this one? Hand painting decanted Tamiya metallic spay paint doesn't go on nearly as well as from the can. AK Metallizer paint doesn't cover well over a non black or white base. Prime all parts after sanding (mufflers). Don't rush any steps and make sure fingers are clean to avoid prints on paint. Clear parts continue to be the bane of my existence. A special thanks to all those who generously share their time and knowledge.

Hey there, I can't believe how much the hobby has changed, or perhaps more accurately, how much information is readily available now! I've built a couple models during this covid business - trying one or two new techniques each time. Still making plenty of mistakes but getting better as I go. Looking forward to spending some leisure time here. Thanks for having me.