Dpate

I know nothing about it, but grabbed one cause the kit itself goes for $50-$60. $20 for a trailer kit worth it, and just the decals alone would go for $15-$20.

Lacquers don’t cure like enamels do. You can clear coat a lacquer paint job same day if you wanted too. Leveling thinner does slow the drying time a little so the paint can self level better, but not slow enough to where you’d have to wait a month. Like the automotive lacquers I use I can prime, paint, and clear all in the same day. I think it’s worth investing in a dehydrator too, but everyone’s opinion is different. Can block sand Mr surfacer primer in 10 mins @120F while most wait a day or more lol. Most folks just like to let stuff dry on its own while they work on something else.

So this is my first time doing foil under paint job, and on the engine instead of body. For some reason it seemed hard to take pics because of the chrome. Still got to do the other side, but I think it turned out pretty good for first time. I can also see how some would have trouble doing this method especially on a small piece without burrowing the detail in paint. Engine still in progress, and the paint is MCW Chevy engine red (6 coats) over pink primer.

Ollie’s got some new kits in the U.S mail truck, and these rat fink trailers. I picked up a trailer as I don’t have very many but a few moebius trailers.

Right, and if you still want to do scale finishes paint I have a 15% coupon code I could PM your way. That way you could get 3 bottles 6 ozs of paint, and save some dough. I say 6 oz cause that’s a lot of paint, but I’m not familiar with 1/8 scale so probably need 4-5 bottles 8-10 ozs.

Thought I had this kit, but didn’t so had to grab it. Also got some micro liquitape thanks to a user on the forums mentioning it.

Haven’t used them, but I was going to in the past. They’re legit, but I couldn’t tell u how hot the paint is.

Great for folks that don’t wanna purchase BMF.

Never knew that site even existed. Better places to order from imo. How much what the kit?

Cheapest place online for Tamiya paint would be scalehobbyist, Burbank house of hobbies, sprue brothers. You can get all Tamiya paints there $1.99-$2.80 for 10ml, and $7-$8 for the TS cans.

Tamiya products are pretty cheap in Japan. They’re just expensive in the states cause they making up for import fees etc. What Tamiya products are you looking for exactly? Tools? Paint?

Have you tried letting the hood sit in dawn soap for a little while? That should clean it up pretty good.

No it’s separate pieces that go into the tire. All I did to them was clean them up, primed them white, couple coats of Mr color GX cool white, and then went over them with wet 3K grit. I was gonna hit them with dull coat through the brush, but ended up liking the look after the 3K grit. Looks better in person than the pic. They’re from the 57 Chevy bel air 100 year anniversary AMT kit. Great kit with all the bells n whistles. Just little clean up here n there, and little more depending how picky you are.

Got these 5 white walls done.

Hey whenever you get a chance share how the honey clear goes. It’s suppose to be like 2K without some of the chemicals.

Mail call from James and picked up 2nd Land Rover from hobby lobby while I was at the beach.

I use Tamiya Q-tips there wounded tighter than regular Q-tips. But if you’re having trouble with regular Q-tips? Just use a cotton cloth around one finger. But some areas may require multiple pieces of BMF, and if done right you can’t even tell it was pieced. You can get away with one piece of foil around a bend, but you’ll have to lay it down right or you’ll get bad creases in the foil, and it’ll look horrible.

You have to burnish it i.e cotton bud or cotton cloth. If you burnish it you’ll notice how the cotton bud or cloth starts turning black. Keep doing that for a little, and you’ll see the shine. certainly not gonna stroke no body’s ego, but like others have said you gotta work your way up, and learn different skills, different techniques, etc. I look at models different than most as I’ll try and get it close to 1:1, but I’m not gonna try and get it 100% 1:1 hundred of wires, open doors, etc etc. It’s a plastic model that’s gonna sit, and spending 100 of hours on it is just going too far to me. I understand the satisfaction some get out of it, but I rather build 2-3 quality kits in 100 hours than just 1 to each their own. With time, practice, patience, you’ll get good at painting, clear costing, using BMF, etc etc. Just like guitarist they didn’t learn over night even though I think some are aliens lol.

The numbers are grit size. 1500 being the smallest, and 500 being the biggest or thickest of them. It’s a system you can use 500 for filling etc, and work you way up. If everything is good to go you can start out with 1500 the smoothest of them.

Have to be careful with super clean though. If it doesn’t strip it 100%(I have had chrome where superclean wouldn’t touch the varnish even 2 days of soaking) it’ll stain the varnish purple reason I stopped using it. It strips the chrome cause it has 5 or so percent lye in it. It just depends on the kit chrome, but super clean does work so not knocking it. It’s cheaper route than the method I use. Even though a pound of lye cost like $6. My method I’ll have a whole kit of chrome stripped in half a hour chrome and varnish.

Mr surfacer 1500 black all day everyday. Nicest black primer I think u can get besides hobby titans black primer in a can. I think it rivals surfacer it’s that good. Italy product VS Japan product they’re both amazing.

That is little weird must be a bleach thing. I use 100% lye takes chrome off in bout 20-30 secs. I then use a stripper to remove the under layer varnish. Method I’ve used for awhile basically fool proof.

Yeah just got to let set dry for a little, and then go for sol. Lot of times you can just skip set all together. Are you cutting the decal between the door seals or letting sol sink it down? Also be careful with Mr hobby’s decal solutions it’s strong stuff like solvaset if not stronger. I think it’s the blue bottle you need to make sure, and shake good too cause all the white stuff settles. If decals are thin I’ll use set & sol, and if they’re thick or being annoying I go for the strong stuff. I use a water brush a lot too (those brush’s that you can put solution in, and squeeze.) I don’t put solutions in them just use them to apply decal solutions while rubbing down the decals can burnish them down real good especially in door etc.

So the is stuff almost act like the adhesive we get on the back of metal transfers we get with Tamiya etc? If so I’m gonna bet a bottle to try myself even though the AK stuff I use works , but not the same as this.

Been waiting for this bad boy. Id be shocked if it isn’t already built from all the movement during shipping when you open it….lol