Dpate

Yeah it’s wild. There’s a Harley Davison kit from Tamiya with all the bells n whistles I want, but it’s cost $500 or more to get it. High prices are mainly from folks seeing others selling a kit at a high price so they list there’s around the same. Also some think cause it’s out of production or super duper ultra rare they have to be worth hundreds n hundreds lol.

Not sure, but man i bought this kit when i first got into the hobby. I've yet to build it lol.

I use a mason jar with those new plastic leak proof caps. I use a pipette to get it out the mason jar fill up the color cup, and than use wash brush to clean color cup, and than dump that, and than pipette more out the jar into the color cup this time back flushing and spraying, and than i dump that do it again with another back flush to see if she's clean if she's clean i dump that do final clean with towel, and on to the next color. Sounds like a lot, but only takes like 2 mins lol. If I'm done for the day I'll do the same thing, but than take needle out and clean all that, and than use 2 denture brushes small and large the small for the inside hole and large for the front. I'll a lot of times take a Q-tip and clean the bottom out too if my wash brush didn't get everything. The large denture brush is great for cleaning the nozzle too on the iwata eclipse, and if i do a DEEP clean that's when i whip out the iwata tool kit.

Brush painting while not the best finish is the easiest method. Best method is using different size tape 1mm etc from tamiya and careful masking and air brush it. Sometimes masking can take 2 hours or more depending on what you're masking and 1 min to remove it LOL. I hate molded in parts too and especially interior tubs.

No wet coats because these are automotive 2 stage paints i.e base coat and than clear coat. I own there primer but haven't used it and it's kind of tricky to use so i heard. Basically light coats of the primer 5 mins apart building it up, it's not the same as Mr surfacer or tamiya etc. You could wait a day on the primer to be safe if you don't have a dehydrator, and depending on temp and humidity in the room. There paints dry super quick, and lacquers don't cure like enamels so after base coat is down after like 20 mins or so you could start clear coating. I'd say about a good 3 inches or so away from the model without being wet and not being to far for it to dry mid air. But distance is really something you'll have to figure out because set ups are different etc etc. You could practice on a spoon or a test body, but .3 or .5 needle 15-20 PSI bout 3 inches away should work good depending on what airbrush you got. But you never wanna do wet coats with automotive paints because there hot paints, and can cause some damage even with a good primer.

I use a iwata washing brush, and back flushing, and spraying multiple times, and than a thin micro fiber towel for cleaning between colors. I use to use a shop towel, but that was causing lint to get inside. Your idea is great for color cups that can be removed.

Depending on what Didspade paint you got determines what base coat you'll have to use either white or black. They should spray and go down the same way as regular scalefinish paints. 15-20PSI 3-4 light -medium coats 5-10mins apart never do wet coats, and they dry so doesn't take long for whatever clear you decide to use.

Just warm up some water on the stove and sit the can in the pot for about a min or two, and dry can off and shake for few mins and off to the races.

Are you using the spray cans or are you decanting it? When i last used tamiya's maroon it was over bare plastic scrap part testing out the color. This color you have to build up until you get the fullness of the maroon by doing light coats few mins between coats. It even looks purplish like that in my tamiya paint jar, but i think this is the only color tamiya actually has that is a automotive color made just for there fairlady z kit. From the picture it looks like you were trying to build up the gloss too fast, and not saying you did it's just the way it looks is all. If you are using the can did you shake it good enough? Warm it up in water for few mins? Hot water bath will give a nicer spray.

This beauty came in today. Sadly could only find 2 of the 4 detail up sets.

Good stuff. Burbank house of hobbies are great to order from.

I only use lacquer on car bodies and just about 98% on everything else except I'll use enamel for tiny details. I'm sure it'll be the same for enamel, but let it sit few mins and than remove pulling back on itself at an angle.

Could of been the plastic. I have heard of tamiya changing up there formula, but i never had any trouble the times I've used it. My #1 go to primer though is Mr.Surfacer 1200 & 1500 & Mr leveling thinner that's the ultimate combo no reason to use any other primer least for me. I'm more a airbrush guy though, always decant the cans if i get tamiya etc.

I'm gonna go on a limb and say you sprayed it completely wrong or bad can. Tamiya likes to go on wet cause it self levels, but you build up too that. Light coats and than the last coat wet coat. Should self level and dry super smooth and than hit with 3K grit paper for even smoother finish.

Last kit i purchased of there's at full price was buyers remorse. They instantly went into the MPC category as in will never buy ANY model with those names on it.

I love gravity colors, but never tried there chrome because of so many other good brands. Have you even used chrome paint before? If you have what have you used so far? From your original post it sounds like you are just asking for trim detail, and i would stick with BMF for that.

I use BMF for trims and such (with heavy buffing ) and usually for scrips I'll use PE. Painting trim and such with chrome metal paint can work just you better make sure your tape job is perfect or....well...you know what happens lol. Best chrome though is subjective at this scale, but the best chrome is whatever one you use first until you try a different one lol. You can use multiple different types of chrome metal paint on different builds or test different brands until you find one that looks the part to your eyes. Also instead of painting side view and rear view mirrors if the kit didn't come with any metal transfer's than just use BMF or hasagawa mirror finish to look like mirrors. But more to your question - BMF the new improved good stuff is better and easier to do for trims etc. There is a slight learning curve, and you'll waste a bit until you get it right, but once you get it you'll love it. Scalpel blades are better for cutting BMF too, because there thinner and sharper. Xacto blades work fine too, but if you wanna up your game use Scalpel blades with a xacto blade handle.

Spaz stix and Kustom service durability is great and gives better results to my eye. But with all metal paints the parts should never really be touched once on the model regardless of durability. A lot of "chromes" end up looking like polished aluminium.

Dang everybody already getting there's. I preordered from 3000toys.com and they still waiting on products ?

Highly recommend the Procon PS 290 .5 with fan pattern nozzle and 15ML cup. currently $100 on amazon. If you wanna see more about it check out spraygunner.com If you decide to get it and want a grip Iwata grip works perfect.

Donkey do what Donkey is

Hard pass for me. Looks like a nice car a Karen would drive too food lion for some early shopping.

That's a sign telling you to stop using them on expensive model kits. Use them on outside plastic furniture what there meant for lol

Nice! My charger still on pre-order no one has gotten them yet. Ouch on that canadian dollar though.

Wow what a steal man