Shark

I haven't tried them yet, but Model Car World has some metal colors, even a tinted gold for carburetors.

I think Southern Motorsports Hobbies has the pro stock interior tub without the back seat in it.

Here are the seven versions: stock, Bonneville car, modified sports car, wild custom, rally car, road racing and stock drags. Some of these versions are so close to each other

If you are looking for more detail, I would try the AMT 1968/69 Roadrunner/GTX frame. I just held the two bodies against each other and the wheel wells matched up. My frame is partially assembled, I tried to fit it into the 71, but the body on the 68 Roadrunner is more squared up front and it hit the sloped area, so a little trimming would be needed. The width looked good.

Had to laugh when I read this response. Several years ago, a friend was in the decal business on the side. Can't remember if it was one of the Platt brothers or Nicholson's Chevy, but the crew was listed on the trunk and no one could make it out. So on went some friends names. Sold a bunch of them.

AMT 1962 Bel-Air. You can build them as drag, Nascar, street or a Biscayne with a resin body. Between built, in process and untouched, I probably have 20 of them.

Jim Rodgers (the JR in SalvinoJR) 3D prints them with the slots open and hubs corrected, $5 a set. He does parts in between projects at the model company.

If you can't find the TS-71, I got mine from Model Roundup. They seem to have a good supply of different paints when the hobby shops can't get them

Excellent build. A lot of people poor mouth the Polar Lights Ford/Mercury kits, but you sure did a nice job with it.

Tamiya (TS71), it sprays a lot finer than the other brands. By the way, where do you find Shabo transfers. I used to use them but haven't been able to find them

Forgot to mention in my previous response, after putting the decal lettering on and letting them dry, I mist transparent smoke spray paint on them to tone the white down some.

I scuff them with fine grit sandpaper or scotch bite,sand the tread with a heavier grit, wash them, tape up the tread surface, light coat of gloss clear. Let them dry a couple days, apply lettering decals, let them dry for a few days, then spray with a flat clear. Sounds like a lot, but it's not that hard and the results are worth it.

Do you sleep or eat, or just turn out great drag racing cars

You can get a sign shop that still cuts adhesive vinyl to cut some circles the size you want. They will have a backing sheet opposite the sticky side to hold the shape. Center it up, burnish it down, and remove the backing sheet.

You had to be a brave soul to drive one of those back in the day.

I heard of doing this, but haven't tried it (yet). After pretty much doing what the other guys said, if there is a little indention in the glass, use a toothpick and put some Future (or whatever they call it) floor wax in it. Keep it level while drying and repeat if necessary.

They need to give you your own category the way you crank these things out. Another nice build, glad you're doing them, gets me to reminiscing.

Not trying to tell you what to do, but I would try to find a sheet of Yesterday's Decals for that car. They may delete this, but put a request in the Trading Post sections here and on Randy Ayers forum.

MCW (Model Car World) should have everything you asked about. I know they are transitioning to automotive grade enamels, but may have it in lacquer as well.

You may want to reach out to them yourself.

The AMT 40 Ford is one of those kits that everyone should build at least once. Glad to see they did it in white plastic. Some of the other Coke kits have been red or yellow.

Have you tried sealing the colored plastic with a silver lacquer spray?

Have you cast anything that large before? If you are just starting out, start with some smaller parts and work your way up. To do bodies, you really need a vaccum pump and a container to get the bubbles out of the silicone rubber for the molds. Then an air compressor and pressure tanks for casting. Not to mention the items to get the body ready to make a mold. You may want to contact a resin caster to do it for you. If it's something they can incorporate into their product line, they may give you several copies for the master

Corvettes sort of went by their own rules up until the mid 70's. They didn't sell near as many as their metal bodied siblings, so they could be more accommodating to customer requests. It didn't have to be on the order form, if you knew what to ask for, you could get it. Even in the mid 70's you could order one in primer then the dealer or yourself could have it whatever color you wanted.

Slixx decals carries that hood made by Competition Resins