Mike Chernecki

Steve, Scale Finishes uses Dupont paints. Depending on your selection you can get either Acrylic Enamel or Basecoat. I use the basecoat on every paint job I do, I gave up on the Enamels since they take so long to dry. The basecoats are true basecoat/clearcoat and are not traditional lacquer that can be polished. They need a clearcoat, I use Zero 2k clear.

I have never had any luck with Zero primer. I use Tamiya primers under all my Zero paints, never had a problem.

https://www.modelhaustires.com/ Awesome, fast service.

The Nova kits were the only thing worth waiting for from Moebius, I hope something happens with these.

You will find my post on the thread from Automotive forums. Just contact through their Facebook page and they will help you. Last I ordered parts the service was very quick.

Maybe you were thinking of the decals from echoxrayniner . The decals for the 1970 Olds Ralleye 350 has a bit more on it. https://public.fotki.com/RaysKits/oldsmobile/cutlass/ Or maybe The Last Details decals for the 1969 442 has a bunch of extras on it. https://www.thepartsbox.com/shop/decals/the-last-detail-inc/1969-oldsmobile-cutlass-442-w-30/

Keith Mark's https://public.fotki.com/mofobow/oldsmobile/4-4-2/68_4-4-2/

Not yet, but Joseph has talked about doing some.

I placed an on Mar 1st, #108, at 10am. At 3pm the same day I received notification from the post office that the order was shipped and received by the post office. I am in Canada and received the order a few days later. Great product, hope it stays around for a long time.

I use Tamiya primers always under automotive paint with no problems.

Try the Tamiya Light Curing Putty, no smell, cures instantly with a light, easy to sand. I use the UV light I have left over from a Bondic glue pen. I put a bit of putty on a notepad and cover it with a lid from a spray can so it doesn't start curing. Then start filling what you need, fill, cure, sand, all within a few seconds of each other. Working on the new 1968 Chevelle I filled the holes for the mirror and door handles within a couple minutes and that was 3 rounds of fill, cure and sand.

Nice, I have a bottle of the Verde Hydra, not a common color, but sure looks good. I like what you did with the forged carbon. Did you paint the forged carbon on the interior or was that a kit decal?

Actually, my '62 Nova convertible is black with red interior, the primer on the outside is very light grey , but the inner body is all red oxide.

It has been 20 years since I striped the paint off, but I believe it was medium to dark grey. I have one of original fenders from the '68 on my '69 Nova, but it is currently under 4 feet of snow.

My '68 Nova is Ash Gold and it had grey primer from the factory.

Wow, the contrast of the white against the candy is amazing. Nicest paint job I have seen.

Actually the trim is there, but nearly invisible. I was thinking of taking some very thin wire and make the trim around the seat... it needs it. I also noticed Revell missed the SS396 badge in the center of the door panel.

Looks good, I also have a 1970 Charger in the works in Top Banana Yellow.

Looks good. What did you use to paint the gold on the wheels? I am looking for something similar for a set of Lamborghini Countach wheels.

It is.

The underhood of the hood of my 1970 Chevelle is semi gloss black.

Steve, Have you ever looked at the Mecum auction site, https://www.mecum.com/search? I search this site on every build I do. Just search for make and model and check out all the pictures. A quick look at all the concours restored Shelby's from 1967 shows the Autolite Sta-Ful in red lettering and red caps.

I was thinking the same thing.

I got my '68 Chevelle at a Winnipeg Hobby Shop a few weeks ago, they had the Mustang as well. They are in Canada.

Don't complain about the boxes, they may bring back those stupid flip top donut boxes.