rattle can man

After h parts, < it looks like I will be building my original and possibly cannibalizing the new tool for parts.

When looking for parts, check for interchange. Check for an owners forum online to find good parts sources and tips on interchange. Manufacturer's tend to use parts they already make across multiple models. You might have to order the parts for two different models to get the lengths you need, but as long as they fit, it doesn't matter. I shop for Mazda 323 parts for my Festiva. The majority of the time the parts fit. but there are also parts from other Late '80s and newer Fords, Mazda's, and Mercury's that fit too.once upon a time I had an Aerostar that used the same front suspension parts as a Pinto/ Mustang II

How close are the Revell 612 Scaglietti and 599 GTB Fiorano? I have a partial 612 kit (no clear, engine, suspension, rear bumper, chrome, or hood). There is a partial 599 on my favorite auction site that could get me most of the parts I would need if they would be close enough to work. I've looked at instructions for both on Scalemates and it looks like it could work.

Phone menu circles. Called a company today to request a copy of a document navigated through their menu 3 times and never got to talk to a person. Or what I needed for taxes

Found a radio station to stream the four Nations tournament's final game.

For once, I actually like big wheels under this one. At least those anyway.

Finding quality parts takes research. For my '93 car and truck, I won't buy brake parts from anyone but one store. All of the less expensive stores and the parts fail in a year. Knowing what interchanges can help. I find searching for various Mazda parts much more successful than searching for Ford Festiva parts. Finding a shop to work on them weeds out a lot of shops. They simply don't know how to handle anything without a computer scan (can you say OBD 1 and counting the flashes?). But finding the small shops when something is beyond my skills is getting harder. Thankfully my vehicles are reliable and easy to repair once I find parts.

'41 Woody and '48 coupe?

720 degree vision? interesting.

nearly 60 next week! but -14 tonight, before any wind chill.

A good solvent cement should weld all of the pieces into one piece. Since super glue and epoxy are physical bonds (they don't fuse the parts into one piece) the back of the joint with mesh will help strengthen the joint and keep it from cracking breaking. Just like real fiberglass repair is reinforced with a few layers of cloth and resin. Either method should work.

Don't tell my partner I'm pleased, but a house my significant other really liked at an online real estate site sold a day after she found it. I liked the house, but it didn't offer much for me to do. no space for model building. no space for a garden. no space for tinkering on 1:1 cars. And in small beach town where fishing/ seafood is the main industry. Absolutely nothing for me to do aside from sit around.

No offense intended to the Chevy guys, but perhaps someone was smart and put a Ford drivetrain in it? Says the anti-Chevy guy. Who plans to re-power all of his Chevy powered model kits with anything other than Chevy engines.

There are some 0ld WIP threads on the forum on builds of this kit. one has some good pics on how to make better hinges.

A rollback with a '70s IH pickup cab. Looked like it was hauling an '80s AMC-Renault. Couldn't get a pic since I was navigating a round-a-bout.

I know this is a very old thread, but from the pics, I count three mufflers/ resonators, even if the post is correct that the cat is under the oil pan. That doesn't seem like something I would do if I were building for performance. It would restrict exhaust flow too much.

I believe there were also male and female figures in the Club De Mer kit. Might be a harder find.

As is, it doesn't work too well. As stated, some flying buttresses on the roof would help. So would new wheels, re-shaping the rear wheel arches, and concealing l the headlights in the grille instead of pop-ups.

It's a question of which math they used: old math (easy and straight forward) new math (complex and too many steps), or the other math taught in schools now.

Remember, there was a time when you could order vehicles with equipment you chose. Heaters, radios and electric wipers were once options. Now you can only buy what they want to build. And further, the dealer could install options if the factory wouldn't.

Actually the last few days. How can they say something is free, and then charge you for it? I've been trying to find a free radio station to stream the Four Nations hockey games (I can't justify another TV streaming service). All the searches for "Free radio" brought up streaming services you have to subscribe to and pay a monthly or yearly fee.

I will file that bit away for future use. I have never used PE. I just thought the bond would be as strong as the bond of the wax to the finish. But models aren't handled frequently, so I assume it is strong enough then. I've heard of people using clear paint to attach PE. Would that still work?

It has been a long time since I built the Prestige release of it, but I think I need to agree about the seats being under-scale and the doors did sag when you opened them (I was, and still am. mostly an OTB builder). Otherwise, it was a great build.

I would have to defer to the more experienced builders. But I would think after polish and before wax. I know wax and grease (and rubber/ vinyl treatment) must be removed before refinishing a real car so the paint adheres properly. I would think the same would hold true for adhesives

The Car. custom lincoln