OldNYJim

Just spotted these on Model Roundup - same parts as in the Mooneyes dragster that Atlantis just reissued:

That guy had taken a bunch of people’s money in the past and not fulfilled the orders…he’s still active on Instagram and making new stuff, it looks like, but buyer beware on that one…

Still got one of those patiently waiting it’s turn to get built ?

Oh, and philosophical question for the contest modelers, that occurred to me today…if you download a kit and print it, and build it like any regular kit, would it be eligible for the box-stock class? ???

I downloaded my first entire 3D-printable kit this week - there’s a bunch of them out there, but one of these kept catching my eye: Not in my usual wheelhouse - I just think it’s cute! Started working through printing the files…body is the biggest part so I’ll do that this weekend, but been plugging away when I’ve had a spare couple of hours at getting the whole kit printed:

I really like this build Tim, and the write-up was great too (as usual). Thanks so much for sharing!

The only particularly fiddly part of building one of these from sheet will be those radiused edges where the sides meet - but nothing that some round tube can’t fix!

Amazon had a deal on their AnyCubic soy-based resin a couple of days ago so I grabbed some of that. It’s NOT water washable (which I assumed it was) but is apparently lower odor. Has anyone used this one? I mainly grabbed it because it was $25 rather than the usual $35 (and I’ll definitely use it…) but I’m not sure what the benefit of this stuff actually is aside from being less stinky…guess we’ll see!

I’d be disappointed if they ARE going to stop stocking those lines - it’s useful to have somewhere close by to me that stocks that stuff…but on the flipside, I’ll stock up if they’re going to drop it all down to cost price I guess ? Good reason to visit the LHS a little more regularly!

That's absolutely stunning! Did you consider using some washes to bring out all that detail? Either way nice work - looks like a piece of jewelry!

Oh man, you were brave BMFing those ramps instead of just Alclading them…they look great tho!

My local HL was discounting all the Evergreen and K&N metals today…presumably they’re dropping those too…

Good start! It’s gonna be fun adding all those rivets ? I saw someone on Instagram build one of these from flat sheet too, in case you need some inspiration: https://www.instagram.com/p/B5JW7mSA6Qu/?utm_medium=copy_link

That game's hard - I played it a bunch in Times Square and never won a single time! ?

YES! I've been meaning to do that exact build... so they'd sell at least one

This one has been on my to-buy list since the latest release…I originally figured it was just the Bonneville parts in there, but they weren’t lying on the box to say it’s “loaded with extra parts”…you can just as easily build this as a proper full-fendered rod or possibly even stock (or closer to stock, anyway). Ive got some decidin’ to do before I dig into this one…

Mine’s not as bad as that, but definitely a little tweak: The back of the frame is fine, but the drivers side front (right in the photo above) sits a little high. No biggie, nothing some hot water and some brass rod in those frame rail recesses won’t fix…

I did watch that vid, yeah! It was really helpful, thanks buddy! The automatic supports feature is great in a LOT of cases, but not always. For example, if you’re printing a tire, the software doesn’t know that it’d be easier to clear up a support nub from the sidewall or the middle, compared to putting them on the tread or right on the “FIRESTONE” lettering on the side or whatever. It’s not smart enough to know which detail is really important and which part is going to be hidden, or easier to clean up. So, sometimes you’ve got to outsmart the software and just line them up yourself That said, I thought of you this evening when I was playing with the files for a Kei truck print I’m going to be working on. I let the software figure out the best spots for the supports and this is what it came up with: In this case, it worked pretty well! Didn’t put any of them anywhere TOO awful, supported that front end (which would likely sag during printing) and a bunch of interconnected ones running up the A-pillars and to the roof. It actually put a BUNCH more in there than I did for my Jeep (although this has a roof, obviously) so it spotted the fact that this roof is relatively high with not enough ‘meat’ in the roof pillars to let it print perfectly on it’s own. It’s clever stuff, even if it does need some human brainpower to produce actual useful parts sometimes

Thanks Bill - and everyone else for the nice words…and thanks to MCM for the feature! That was such a cool surprise! Still wish I’d done a more detailed build if I’d known it was gonna be in a magazine ?. Guess I’ll have to build another something-or-other!

So, I didn’t update this build for a while because I’ve just been cleaning up parts and designing little doodads and whatever and learning some stuff…but I figured it was time for an update anyway… Got the body all cleaned up and into primer - I’m doing a paintjob inspired by the old trucks that the NYPD used back in the 30s. I have no evidence that they ever used ‘34 Fords (they were much bigger, more like fire trucks generally) but they were green with gold lettering and I liked the idea that someone in the 60s found an old cab somewhere and built something Roth-inspired around it. Military modelers use a trick where they pre-shade underneath their paint with different tones to give a simple paintjob a little more depth and realism, and because the Wicked Colors paint I’m using is a little translucent I can use that same trick to make this almost-90 year old paint look like it’s aged a little: I’m not going for a patina’d look here, just really old but clean lacquer (or I guess enamel maybe? Whatever they were using back in the day…) Next up, twelve coats of Wicked green: Followed by some lettering in Vallejo Old Gold: Aside from the body, laid out a steering wheel design that I’d had in my head for EVER… …and printed one of those (along with a dash, that I’ll get to in a later post… Printed some B17 oxygen tanks to use as a gas tank: Conveniently, these things came in dark green for certain applications, so they work with the color scheme and are unusual enough that I thought it would fit with the theme I’m going with here… Oh, and I stumbled upon a new grill that caught my attention so I printed one of those too: Finally getting to the point where there’s not much left to design on this thing (thank God - this was basically like designing a whole kit!) so it’s about time to start spraying some colors and doing some assembly. More soon!

Good questions dude! Honestly? I’m kinda feeling my way through this stuff myself… So, the upper side of the front fenders printed just great, but there was some waviness on the undersides where the material was sagging under it’s own weight. That’s what I was hoping to avoid with those supports under there, and the tips where they connect to the body are so tiny that cleaning them up is really quick and easy so I added plenty. On the rear of the body. I was concerned about the same thing happening, or the thing getting wobbly or wavy not printing right…but there’s only so much space INSIDE the body because there’s a floor there. I COULD have connected some braces to the floor and to the inside of the body, but I figured I’d rather just level out the outside in this case because it’ll be easier to get to. Those little nubs where the braces attach are REALLY small, and a shape X-acto blade removes them really quickly. All that said, yeah, it might not need that many, but I’d rather do a minute of clean-up on an extra brace than spend three hours waiting for the thing to print and it’s not usable. Was just trying to give the machine the best shot at getting it right first time!

Thread for aeroplanes and stuff ⬇️⬇️⬇️

I’ve got the Portrait 2 - but I also had the Cameo 1…seems like they’re all about the same in capability apart from different potential cut sizes…my wife has a Cricut and that works about the same too ?? Thank you!!! Thanks buddy! Was a nice surprise to open the mag and it was in there! Yessir! My lowest-effort least-detailed least-proud-of build of all of last year, and it made the mag ??

Not sure if this is true or not - but if you’re a Future fan might be worth grabbing an extra bottle or two now…

I think, in some aspects, 3D printing is way ahead of regular resin casting…for example, I just printed these today: Check those tiny linkages! I bet you COULD do that in resin somehow…but I probably couldn’t…and it certainly wouldn’t be as quick and easy. I think 3D printing is already AT the point of being as good or better than the majority of cast resin parts in the market today…but like resin casting, the people designing the masters and the people doing the casting (or printing, in this case) makes the difference.