Bainford

If there is one only, I wonder where the spare tail gate came from? I got to say, I like it. It sure needs a lot of love, though. Note the faded letters spray painted on the tail gate... 'CRUSH'. Sounds dire. I hope it finds an enthusiastic and ambitious buyer.

Yet another (though more subtle) employment of Kamm theory aerodynamics. Though the suggestion that this car was designed with Kamm aerodynamic theory in mind always makes me giggle...

Yep, right down to the vent slots in the body work. Ferrari definitely did it better. The Thomassima is actually built from discarded and scrounged Ferrari bits (and some Maserati and Cooper bits as well) and bespoke body work, but was badged a Thomassima. The one off Thomassima II was built to order for a customer. Thomas was put out when, upon taking delivery of the car, the customer replaced the Thomassima badges with Ferrari badges. The customer referred to the car as a Ferrari P4/250, a model which didn't exist.

I'm not a fan of the Thomassima III styling, but I think the Thomassima II (below) is a beautiful car. Much more pleasing lines.

Thanks for posting that. One of my period favorites, too. I remember being blown away by this thing when reading a Sports Car Graphic magazine in the 70s. I am very glad to see it still exists, and motivates under its own power. Very cool.

Thank you, sir. Very helpful information.

A more accurate method of scaling when working in 1/25 scale is using .040" to represent 1''. This makes the math easy when scaling parts; .020" = 1/2 inch, .010" = 1/4 inch, .005" = 1/8 inch, etc. .080 = 2 inches, .120" = 3 inches, etc. It makes for an excellent scaling method when scratchbuilding.

Nice engine turning, Alyn. Very neat work.

Well, wild things 1-3 were at least intriguing and interesting cars, despite be styled by a nearsighted 4th grader and engineered by his math teacher. This thing though... that's a whole new level of hideous. I can only look at it indirectly, and only in short glances, for fear of bringing up my lunch. Seriously, does anyone think this is attractive? I am really curious to know.

Yep, that's ugly. But it's worst crime is being absolutely huge and grossly overweight. Sure, it's got tons of power, but it's still a massive, heavy , sophisticated barge. When reaching for the ultimate in performance automobiles, the industry is moving in the wrong direction. I can't subscribe to the method of creating as much power as we can, then building a huge and heavy chassis to contain it. Sure it's fast, but it must be a nightmare to engage in a spirited drive on twisty back country roads.

I don't know... still seems way too contrived. Too busy. Too pointless.

ATF is a hydraulic oil.

Is there anything here that would work http://alclad2.com/finishes/candy/ . Maybe a mixing of green and yellow.

BINGO!

Why is it so ugly?

Nice build of the LRW. It looks good in this classic configuration.

This is me, mildly disappointed. I clicked on this thread hoping to see a figure of Pam guiding Jim back to the line. No matter, your build looks great. I always likes Jungle's cars, and the Camaro was one of the coolest. Very nicely done.

Good looking 55. Like some of the others, the 55 is my favorite of the 50s Chevys. Such unusually clean lines for the era. And as your build demonstrates, they make great gassers. I remember glue bombing this kit when I was a kid, but I still loved it. Very nice work on yours.

Very cool project. Excellent work thus far.

Looks like the old Bunny Coach

Like many of us, I have several much admired cars at the top of my list. The least expensive of them, the Lotus Europa, is presently in my garage. But, if money was no object...

Cheers Rich!

Yeah, it looks like a problem, and I can't imagine a separator being sufficiently effective at removing oil from the air to permit painting. However, I have been hearing of people making quiet compressors for painting from fridge compressors, but can't imagine how they deal with the oil output. Actually, I don't have a good idea of how much oil would end up being released in the first place, but I imagine there would be some, and any would be too much if it can't be effectively removed.

FWIW, during the polishing of the paint, I sand away the paint from the window trim and then polish the bare plastic right along with the body paint, to a very high polish. The smoother the surface, the smoother and shinier the BMF will be. Adhesion has never been a problem, and on numerous occasions I have given it plenty of reason to fail. On my latest build I fully polished the paint and the BMF application areas, and then applied the BMF. I then managed to damage the paint on about 80% of the body's surface. That body then went through another complete wet colour sanding and polishing to save the paint, which would be considered abusive handling on the BMF. It never budged, even on exposed features such as the door handles. In my experience, once BMF is down and well burnished, it simply doesn't come off, even with frequent handling, so long as the application surface is clean.

Well, it took 100,000,000 years to create the oil that we have extracted from the planet in the last 100 years. That's a 1,000,000 : 1 ratio. If, as a planet of consumers, we can reduce our oil consumption rate to 1 millionth of the average consumption rate of the last 100 years (probably about one/ten millionth of todays consumption rate), then yes, oil is a sustainable energy source.