Bainford

If this was a nice car that was ravaged by a wild fire, then I would have to imagine there are usable or restorable chassis and under hood parts. Anything cast iron will be usable. Many heavy gauge steel parts would be restorable. The hood may have shielded bits from the most intense heat. When doing a full, concourse restoration, even some of the hard to find factory fasteners will be very useful.

Yes, I'm well aware of that. I never said I was going to use the chassis from the '70. The '72 kit has a chassis. The frame just needs to be cut free from it. The '70 will give up its engine & drive train as well as other bits and details.

If they mess the body up as bad as they did on the '74, then it won't matter if they do the '72. I'll be kitbashing my JoHan '72 with a Revell '70, whenever I get around to it.

Very clean appearance. It has a serious period look, just screaming mid 70s. Very cool, I love it.

Excellent weathering. Very realistic depiction of old, cracked and weathered paint. Looks great with those wheels, too. Nicely done.

Don't fettle those panel gaps too well. It IS a Lotus, after all.

The shiny stuff comes off quickly, but it will barely touch the clear lacquer under coat. It's the same with most 'recommended' chrome strippers. There is little point in stripping the shiney stuff if you can't remove the detail hiding clear under coat.

Looks like a cool project. Are you starting with the Monogram Sport 300 kit?

You'll like it. I have The Nutter set and it comes in very handy. It comes with hex sizes of 0.5 mm, 1.0 mm, and 1.5 mm. What I really need is 0.75 mm, the perfect size for 1/24 scale lug nuts. I need to order a spare set of hex tips so I can modify them for sizes not currently available.

Very cool. Big's diggers always looked so sinister. Nice build.

Well thank you very much for that. I have a 1/24 scale motorcycle scratch build im gathering ideas and materials for, and the one thing I can’t work out is a decent chain. Problem solved!! Many thanks.

Cool tip. Nice weathering.

Typical Revell wheel fail. It's Revell, 'nuff said.

Stay away from all enamel clears if yellowing is a concern. In fact, avoid painting with white enamel in the first place if you are concerned about yellowing.

It's an intriguing idea. I was going to opt for it but the premium for a Canadian subscription was quite high. I hope there is some success with this endeavour. If I can scrape together some more disposable cash I'll be going for it.

I like to trim most of the excess away if I can, then glue the windscreen in place. If for some reason the excess is not easily trimmed away from the inside of the body and you feel it is well adhered to the body, then glue the windscreen to it. In most cases though, I would avoid gluing the windscreen to only BMF.

Swap the 'good pair of scissors' for jeweller's files and a pair of flat nose pliers, and that's my method. Carve, form, fabricate the chunky bits from Evergreen plastic. Taylor made for whatever project you are working on and better looking than PE.

Very tasty! Love it.

Cool! Also interested in info on a 1/24 Mk1 Cortina.

Oh yeah, that looks great!! Outstanding shine. Well done.

Cool build. That rear 3/4 view looks mean.

Interesting bare metal technique. Looks great.

Great tip!

I completely agree with the above answers. I remove shortly after the paint begins to set up.

Good question. I’ve been thinning hobby enamels with hardware store lacquer thinner for years without a problem. Some new kits do seem particularly susceptible to crazing, though. Don’t know if the enamel/lacquer combo is a problem on those kits. I too would like to hear if this has caused anyone grief.