Bainford

Cool subject, and cool project. Lots of work here. It's coming along nicely.

Yup, pretty sure it's urban legend. I heard it was American engineers who made the bit, and Swedes that drilled seven holes in it and sent it back. Told to be by my physics teacher in the 1980s.

I'm not sure I get this. What's the point? Neither clear nor smoked tint is correct, but at least clear panels are used under the auspices of being able to view the details hidden underneath. It's a silly idea, suitable for toys but not authentic models, yet enough people fall for this idea that it pops up from time to time as a clear body, hood, roof panel or chassis panel. But smoke tinted panels are not only incorrect, they also do not permit viewing the hidden details. It fails on both counts. Sure, it can be painted, but nevertheless what's the point?

Correct! The Microscale Micro Metal Adhesive is not a PVA glue. It is a thin and milky contact glue, of the type where you apply it and let it dry/tack up before attaching the adjoining piece.

1/43, eh? That's some mighty clean and impressive detailing!

Very cool Jawbreaker! I love the body mods. looks very authentic. Has a great period look. This kit gets slagged a lot, but one of my favourite kits when I was a kid.

Great looking Hurst Hairy Olds. And I'm really digging your box display. What a great idea, and it will work well with many kits that have cool or original box art. I built this kit about five years ago. It was the 90s release with the Linda Vaughn figure, but the decals were horrible. I remember when I first opened the box it had two sheets of decals, and I thought "what a bonus". When it came time to decal the car, out of two decal sheets I could not get enough good decals to completely do the car. They just broke up into little pieces. I'm glad to see your decals were usable. I may try to see if I can get a better set from Revell, though I don't know if they still do the parts replacement thing now that they are based out of Germany.

Curious. I've not seen that before. I have been using CA and accelerator for years, both Bob Smith Industries products, and have not seen that reaction. I almost neve use thick CA though, just thin and extra thin. Regarding accelerator application, I remove the lid from the spray bottle and use a pipette to apply a drop of kicker to the joint.

Very impressive work here. I am also wondering what scale this model is.

The SP2 sounds interesting.

Great subject matter and a very nice build. Excellent work.

Hhmmm… if true, this could also mean the end of Model Master Metaliser paints. I will really miss that. I LOVE the Metaliser line.

One of the worst examples of fakery is some modern performance cars play engine sounds through the car stereo when giving it heck. Some newer BMWs come to mind, but there are others. Most examples of fake dazel the neighbours as much as the owners. Fake engine sounds only dazel the driver. Sad.

Are you stuck on 1/24 scale? I built one of these 1/20 scale kits when I was young. It's pretty simplified, but would make a great start.

Those interior colours look great. The kit may be simplified, but that chassis builds up better looking than I would have thought.

Interesting catalogue of chassis. It must have taken a lot of work to compile and fact check. Also, more chassis built than I would have though. Very cool, thanks for posting.

Yup, everything he said! Especially the shade photos. Nicely done.

Cool looking Dart, both before and after. I really love the 68s. It looks super mean in the 'after' shots.

Thanks Bill, for making the effort to help sort this matter out. And thanks as well to RobDebie for your excellent information. This is all valuable and hard to find (and decipher) information. Much appreciated.

I'd be interested in seeing this if/when it happens.

Cool project, and nice multi tasking. The decals look great.

Cool looking MBG, and the colour suits it well. Nicely done. I have one of these on the bench right now, just getting it finished up.

Thanks much for the links and info. Very interesting.

I wasn't aware that the Fujimi kit is too wide. Good to know, as I've been seriously thinking of picking one up. Is the model visibly too wide and out of scale, or just one variant of the 917 compared to others? ...or is just a matter of two halves of a body that do not line up well? If the Fujimi kit is inaccurate, it makes me wonder, though... wouldn't it have been better for Renaissance to create a correct width front body? Presumably this would be much harder to do, but 'correcting' a kit by creating an inaccurate transkit to supplement an already inaccurate kit in an effort to make it look better seems like a step backward. Especially with an iconic car such as the 917, and I would imagine the combined cost of the Fujimi kit and the Renaissance transkit is not insignificant. Either way, I'm interested to learn more about this.

Very cool! Digging the look.