Bainford

Thanks for this, Steve. Unfortunately I can't see your photos, but I am one who has questioned Super Clean's effectiveness on lacquer, though I am aware that others have had success. I painted a Chaparral in Tamiya racing white from the spray can, over Tamiya primer. The paint was only about 3 weeks old when I decided to strip it in Super Clean. After a two week soak I could not remove the paint. There are many variables that can effect the stripping abilities of any paint remover, but I have come to accept that Super Clean is generally good for stripping lacquer. I usually don't paint with lacquer so haven't had much opportunity to strip it, but I seem to be using lacquers more lately. I have wondered if Super Clean loses some of its power over years. My bottle of Super Clean is over 15 years old so it may be time to replace it. One stripper I haven't tried is 91-99% alcohol. I know many have had success stripping lacquer with it as well.

Very nice looking GT-40. This particular example is one of my favourites of the breed. Well done.

In my mid to late teens I did all of my model building out in the garage. I would routinely work and paint out there in winter temps as low as -10c (about 14 f) and never had any issues short of occasional excessive shivering, so no free-hand custom painting until the weather warmed up. I never knew anything about pre-warming the paint, etc. Flash times were a little slower but otherwise no adverse issues.

The 1:1 parts are made in raw, unpainted fiberglass. I wonder if moulds could be made of kit parts, then copies cast in fiberglass (polyester?) resin.

Schrodinger's cat... the kit would still be just as collectable if you had not opened it.

If I'm not mistaken, Tamiya cut one of these as well. Probably in the 'electric motor model' days.

No complaints here. Seriously, It's a lovely winter. Just needs more snow.

I use guitar strings a lot. It's one of my favourite scratch building materials. Brake lines, fuel lines, suspension bits, various rods, pipes, & tubes,1000s of uses.

The JoHan Comet and Maverick have the shifter you are looking for.

Lovely Bronco! Great look and well built. Very cool.

Very cool little machine. The very compact Ford small block looks huge in that engine bay. Nice work!

Me neither! Very interesting little work horse, and yes, it would make a very cool model project.

Great tip, and well explained. Nice work.

I use isopropyl alcohol (91% or 99%) for cleaning the airbrush after shooting acrylic. In my experience, lacquer thinner is not very effective on acrylics. Obviously mileage varies, but the lacquer thinner I use (cheap hardware store brand) will not dissolve the acrylics I use (most frequently Tamiya).

There are two different BF Goodrich Radial T/A tire sets that I am aware of in scale. A number of 80s vintage MPC kits had hollow vinyl BFGs with proper tread and sidewall lettering styles, though overall these tires are only fair. The size might work for your project, though. The other set are big n littles available in a number of ARII American car kits, and if I'm not mistaken were also available as a separate tire & wheel set. These have excellent tread and sidewall lettering detail but are a bit oversized, being a bit too large to look right on most average 1/24 scale kits.

Cool. I'm very glad to see this kit back on the shelf again, whatever name it's under. I bought a RoG kit (green car on box) off ebay years ago, but the front splash pan was missing. It will make a good kit from which to build a D-Type, but won't address the XKSS jones without scratch building a splash pan (which may be tricky). Regarding issues with the kit, it's impossible to say if the Fujimi version will be effected, but Revell issue kits can exhibit a serious reaction between the tires and the wheels whereby the wheels will melt and deform over time. The issue can be corrected by coating the interface between the tires and wheels with BMF or perhaps a robust clear coat.

Cool vision, and well executed. The paint work is outstanding and very eye catching. Excellent work.

It's handy to keep in mind that in 1/25 scale, .040" = 1". It makes the math dead easy when scaling. .040" = 1", .020" = 1/2", .010" = 1/4", etc. And of course, .060" = 1.5"

I think they may have something in the scrapbooking section, but I have found their selection of dry transfer letters to be a bit lacking. Stationery stores used to be the best place, but they have all been replaced by Staples, etc, and dry transfers are a bit too analogue for those guys (though they do have a limited selection). They used to be very common before everyone owned a computer, but these days your best bet would probably be to do a google search for online suppliers. Also, check out model train suppliers as they seem to have some of this stuff around.

Very interesting subject and kit. I'll be watching along on this one.

White dry transfer lettering works a treat. Sometimes I also use flat white paint and a fine brush to free-hand lettering on windshields to replicate shoe polish numbers, especially on bracket cars.

Very nice looking build. Perhaps about the nicest I've seen this kit built. Very nicely done. I have one in my stash, though when I build it I will be adding some custom touches. I was inspired by one I saw built in SAE many years ago that had been heavily modified. It's a cool looking little car, and a build I'm anxious to tackle some time soon.

delete

Clearly, history is indeed doomed to repeat itself.

I pre-paint the parts roughly the colour that the carpet will be. Once dry I brush on a thin coat of Elmer's white glue (as seen above most thin it, but I use it straight). I work in relatively small sections at a time. Thanks to a tip I got from this forum (though I forget the member's name) I use an old salt shaker to apply the powder. Sprinkle it liberally on the glued area, and if possible tilt the part around a bit to flow the loose powder over the glued area a couple of times. Then dump the excess onto a sheet of paper for re-use. Once the glue has set, invert the freshly carpeted part and 'tap off' the loose excess.