Bainford

Cheers Brian, much appreciated. The PE is indeed in the green car reissue. Thanks for the link, Casey. Very helpful.

I didn’t realize there was a known quarter panel problem with the Torino. Or that it had been fixed, for that matter. Interesting, as just last night I was thinking about re-bodying my original issue build. Now, all the more reason to do so. Does the ‘green car’ reissue include the PE bits, like the original?

That’s a cool photo. It makes me cringe to see all that loose, flowing clothing around the whirling, turning machinery.

Beautiful chassis. Cheers for going unblown.

Cool model. I always wanted to snag one of these, but never did. Your model looks like it would be a great start on a barn-find build. Looking forward to learning more about this interesting kit.

Yup, that's a Palmer. I had the '71 Charger when I was a kid, as well as a couple of others. Pretty crude stuff. Even as a kit hungry little kid, I wouldn't touch a palmer. I have often been amused how Palmer used the image of a micrometer, the mark of precision, to form the 'P' in their logo.

I haven't seen it mentioned in this thread, but if you are decanting, be sure to let the decanted paint sit in the jar, uncovered for at least a half hour or more to de-gas. Perhaps more. It may help to cap and shake the bottle occasionally. Pressurised gas remains entrained in the decanted paint. Sometimes, if you give a bottle of decanted paint a stir or agitate the bottle, the paint will bubble up and overflow the bottle. When decanting, do not fill any bottle to the top for this reason. Decanting works well, but if the gas has not all escaped from the paint, you may encounter problems when spraying. When the paint passes through the body of the airbrush it encounters a low pressure area (at least, in my Badger 200 siphon feed, it does) which causes any remaining trapped gas to be expelled from the paint, screwing up the flow action within airbrush, and generally making a mess at the tip causing splatter, etc.

Very cool. Great lines. It just looks so ‘right’.

In an effort to control virus spread, the dockyard I work at is shutting its doors to all non-essential personnel for three weeks, starting Monday. That will be nearly everyone. I stopped by the lhs on the way home to stock up on paint.

How is this stuff for maintaining/revealing the fine engraved detail of a part being chromed? Can you mask a part so only one section of a part of it is chromed?

Thank you sir. Exactly what I needed to know.

Very cool. Nicely done conversion. I have a similar project I hope to get to soon. It will be a ‘72 in two tone brown. I have contemplated the difficulties in getting a good smooth roof. Yours looks great. Did you have much trouble getting it right?

Can scratchbuilt parts that include plastic + brass, or plastic + aluminium be plated by this process? Or for that matter, can brass and soldered brass parts be plated with this process?

I would think the best bet would be to route fibre optic strands from an LED light source hidden within the model. A different strand for each individual LED on the 1:1.

If the window has a register, then no problem. I was thinking of my attempts to do window masking on kits that did not come with masks. As for the airbrush, I'm sure the inference is that you will have a much better control over paint application. Rattle cans simply chuck great gobs of paint at the piece relative to an airbrush. An airbrush can provide smooth, even coverage without a paint build-up at the mask edge. Makes for a much tidier appearance.

If you can, place the window in position after you have applied the mask, to ensure the mask is properly lined up with the window opening.

I don't know what one would cost, but they are not made from styrene (cycolac, perhaps?) Anyway, the plastic is unstable and almost any Hubley 60 Ford available today will be significantly warped, some terribly so. I would go with a good resin version.

Gorgeous old Ford. I dig the six. Very cool.

Neat, old stocker, and very cool story.

I don't know how I missed this one earlier. Very cool Lotus. I love the 23, one of my favourite Lotus race cars, and your rendition looks great. It really seems to capture the lines and the vibe well. I have noticed the similarities between the Scarab and the 23, and wondered if a conversion was doable. You have done a nice job on this conversion. Also, I was not aware that Revell produced a Lotus 23 slot car back in the day, so thanks for that, too. I like the newspaper photo above. I shows well the diminutive size of the Lotus.

Cool Bug! Excellent weathering technique, and great eye for proper patina. I love the tire/wheel combo, too.

It is indeed helpful. Thank you for the detailed explanation, Francis. Cheers.

Excellent work on a difficult kit. Top notch detailing and finishing throughout. Very well done.

There is some very impressive work, here. I am interested to know more about the gauge faces. How were they done? The image looks much more crisp than a decal or photo..

Well, that was super interesting. It gets a fellow thinking about the possibilities and uses for such a tool. I'm off to ebay to see what I can find.