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Everything posted by Bainford
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Awesome model! Really digging that excavator. Great weathering too. All round cool looking combo. Nice work.
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Tyres melting the blastic wheels
Bainford replied to Funkychiken's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Yes, tires melting wheels is a well documented problem with that kit. I don’t know why this kit is particularly bad. l have heard that some barrier remedies work. The most successful seems to be a layer of BMF between the tire and wheel. Other barriers such as Bin may be helpful as well. The good news is that a nice alternative exists aftermarket. Check out Ukrainian Scale Car Production at uscp-ua.com for a resin Dunlop replacement wheel. -
Mounting wheelbacks: glue solid or free spin?
Bainford replied to crowe-t's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
I have an old Wen Hobby Centre like the one pictured. The PTO coming out of the end is intended for a cable driven rotary tool. But you can remove that and fit an aluminium disc about 2.5 inches dia to the end of the exposed shaft. Glue 320 grit sand paper to the disc. The fuzzy line drawing below shows an adjustable table that fits to the side via the two screw holes shown in the photograph. This little table, set 90* to the sanding disc, makes the perfect device for flat spotting tires. -
Mounting wheelbacks: glue solid or free spin?
Bainford replied to crowe-t's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
This is my primary reason for gluing the wheels solid. Flat spotting the contact patch gives the model the appearance of weight and substance, and greatly improves realism. Gluing the wheels solid also provides the opportunity to get the wheels on nice and straight..., or create a little (intentional) negative camber, if it's appropriate. With the exception of wire axels, I have yet to see a model kit on which the rolling wheels were perfectly square. For me, shelf appearance is much more important than rolling wheels. To each their own, of course. Some guys like to build exactly as the kit was intended by the designer, which includes rolling wheels, and that's cool. A nice thing about this hobby is that there are very few real rules. -
Most realistic way of making autu glass??????????
Bainford replied to doorslammer68's topic in Tips, Tricks, and Tutorials
Cheers! Much appreciated. Thank you too, peteski. I’ll check the lexan as well.- 19 replies
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- autoglass
- windshield
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My Dremel is variable speed from 0 - 30,000. It’s model 395 Type 5, though must be at least 25 years old now, so I don’t know if it’s a current model. For some reason it says 8000-30,000 on it, but the fully variable control definitely starts at 0 on up. It’s a very good tool. Always in use. I have a flex shaft installed on mine, a very useful accessory.
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Most realistic way of making autu glass??????????
Bainford replied to doorslammer68's topic in Tips, Tricks, and Tutorials
Has anyone found a source for PETG in thicknesses less than .020"? That seems to be the thinnest readily available online, but would like to find .010", or even .015".- 19 replies
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- autoglass
- windshield
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'53 F-100 Engine Swaps , 6 or 8 Cylinders
Bainford replied to 1972coronet's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Yup, or from the '56 Ford Vicky. They would be my first choices. -
Interference between model components is not uncommon, and a hood that doesn't fit well due to interference with the induction system is perhaps one of the more common fit issues. The close fit of these parts on the 1:1 car mean that on a scale model they will be practically touching. Because the engine is installed in the chassis and the hood is part of the body, the relationship between the body, the interior bucket, and the chassis determines the fit between the hood and the engine, and that relationship has a lot of wiggle room. Throw in some variables such as the cleanliness and diligence of the work by the original builder, tolerance stack of the various components, and the difficulties of scaling thick plastic parts to represent thin metal ones, and interference issues will be common. Good model building is about finding and correcting these fit issues during the build process.
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Often times, when a decal from an older kit won't release from the paper backing, the cause is moisture damage. Long term exposure to excessive humidity is usually the culprit. I store my kits on a shelving unit in the basement, but the humidity gets a bit high in the summer months. A couple years ago I noticed some kits stored on the bottom shelf (where circulation is poor) were showing signs of moisture damage to the decal sheets. The damage appears minimal, and in some cases undetectable, but in many cases I will likely experience the same issues you are facing. I bought a couple boxes of small, medium, and large freezer bags (the zip seal type), and went through every kit (of about 570), inspected the decals and like you, placed them in the sealed bags. I now automatically place the decals from all new purchases in bags. This should be quite effective at keeping humidity and other moisture away from the decal sheets. I have not tried the Micro decal film, but I imagine it will not help with water damaged decals. I believe it's primary purpose is to save decals that would otherwise break up when immersed in decal water, as some old (and some not so old) decal sheets will do.
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Sweet little Fiat. Nice work on the roof. Cool build.
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Nice conversion, and great looking model. Very creative.
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It's a valuable recyclable material, so I wouldn't expect to get it for free. However, offer $2-5 for a sheet. That is many times the value of the material as scrap, but still a very cheap source of thin aluminium sheet for the modeller. A friend who worked in a print shop years ago gave me seven of these plates for general garage use. I had them kicking around for years before getting rid of all except one, which I kept for modelling.
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Interesting technique, Bernard. Thanks for sharing. I have never seen Kosutte Gin Sang in person, but I remember a few years ago it was a topic of interest on the SA forum, and I was curious about it then. Using the link you posted above, I checked out the C1 Metalizer. Looks like interesting stuff, so I ordered some. However, I have a product that I bought in a craft store about 25 years ago that seems very similar (the brand name escapes me right now). In fact, I bought two little bottles, one with a silvery powder and one with a gold powder. In the ensuing years the small bottle of silvery powder appears to have oxidised, having darkened and lost much of its brilliance and almost seeming a bit graphite like (like fine, powdered pencil lead). Have you noticed anything like this happening with your Kosutte Gin Sang? When I bought the stuff, I had no idea what to do with it, but it seemed like it might have a purpose. I figured I could add it to paint in the manner of pearl powders, but never tried that. I really like the effect of rubbing it on a painted surface. Another surface sheen/texture product to keep in the arsenal. Cheers.
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Nice looking Willys. I love this kit, and you have made some proper changes to it. Well done.
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Nice build. Such a fantastic car. I had no idea a coupe version was available in scale. I'm going to have to get one of these.
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Back to the Future...
Bainford replied to Sam I Am's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
Cheers Matt . I get it. It was just my knee jerk reaction to your comment. As an Europa owner, I view the DeLorean as an over weight, under powered, pathetic and ridiculous door stop, whereas the Europa is pure, uncompromised driving brilliance. -
Back to the Future...
Bainford replied to Sam I Am's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
WHAT!?! -
The Most Dangerous Car You've Ever Owned
Bainford replied to David G.'s topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
Lotus Europa. Negotiating traffic while nearly lying on your back in a paper thin, fiberglass cocoon with a roof height less than the hood height on some cars, eye level with the axel of 18 wheelers. -
64 Dodge D100 Pickup Pro Street
Bainford replied to AmericanMuscleFan's topic in WIP: Drag Racing Models
Outstanding work! An excellent example of proper model building. I am most impressed with your machining skills, thanks for showing us your process. Looking forward to seeing more. -
Very nice Escort. Looks great without the decals. I've been very curious about these kits for some time now. It looks like they build up very well. Nice work. I really need to get a couple of these, one of which I would build as a weekend warrior, similar to yours.
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Very cool sedan delivery. The T-Bird responds well to this treatment. Nice job on the custom work.
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I have a wooden coin tray from an old timey cash register. The rounded contour of the compartment bottoms makes fishing out the small bits easy and controllable. Also quite useful are the desk drawer trays used for organising pens, paper clips, etc in your office desk. They are cheap at places like Staples, or even the dollar store. Very useful for your 1:1 tool box as well for organising small bits.
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I still use my tried and true coat hanger. I tried many different methods of holding the body over the years, but found it was the coat hanger that worked the best for me. It is easy to handle the body when painting, ensuring good paint coverage in the difficult, hidden areas that are hard to access.