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Bainford

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Everything posted by Bainford

  1. One of the coolest kit announcements in a long time. At first I thought it would be a re-pop of the Monogram kit, but no. Nicely done, Revell.
  2. Lovely build. Good looking weathering. Nicely done.
  3. I think Steve touched on this a bit, but I always mask off the script or badge as one of the first things I do when starting on a kit, before the first primer or sandpaper hits the body. This maintains the sharpness of the script to the greatest degree possible. I pull the mask off and foil the script just before I start spraying colour.
  4. Another vote for flocking with embossing powder. So simple to apply and get excellent results. I paint the parts beforehand roughly the colour I intend to do the carpeting, though that step may be unnecessary. Once dry, I apply a thin coat of Elmer's white glue (unthinned) with a paint brush, then shake on a liberal coat of the embossing powder using cobraman's salt shaker trick. I roll the interior bucket around to distribute the powder, ensuring good coverage. I usually work on smaller areas at a time, maybe 1/4 of the floor area, etc. and the application is seamless.
  5. Now that's a bit different. Nicely done. I'm really digging those wheels.
  6. Cool Maserati. The wheel choice looks spot on. I never knew this kit existed, I might have to start looking...
  7. Oh, early Lotus GP build!! I'm watching!
  8. If you do trim the tip, please report back on the result. I've been curious about this as well.
  9. Stunning R-model. This is some seriously good model building. The detailing is clean and complete, and that under hood shot looks just so right. It really evokes the real thing. Exceptionally well done.
  10. I think there is likely good value here, but when I tried to order it, the shipping to Canada was horrendous. I emailed them a couple of times to see if the quoted numbers on the website were correct, but so far no reply.
  11. I fill seams and sink marks with regular automotive glazing or spot putty. The putty works well as a filler and dries quickly, but doesn't feather out really well, so after the initial sanding I brush over it with a coat of Gunze Mr Surfacer 1000 or 1500. Re-sand, and if needed reapply. This stuff seals the porosity of the putty and feathers out really well. The Mr Surfacer also works very well for filling scratches and small damage such as panel scriber slips. Also, a warning; Spot and glazing putty (the solvent based stuff, not the two part putty) works great but should only be used when applied in small quantities. Heavy applications will warp and distort plastic and cause sink marks, even months after application, just like the old tube glue can do when applied too heavy.
  12. What he said. Excellent work!
  13. Cool subject and great weathering. I like the vibe on this. I am very impressed that you managed to get so much quality work done in such a short period of time.
  14. For a good thin pinstripe, go with the 1/64". That scales out to about 3/8" in scale, which is still pretty thick, but as close as you're going to get with a tape, and it does look pretty good.
  15. I've used the ACME plates a few times. I print some test plates, resizing in word until they print out at the right scale size. When I get the size right I print out a few, cut them out and glue them to a piece of flattened beer can aluminium with Future. Once dry, I cut the aluminium plate close to the plate image, then coat the whole thing with more Future. Sometimes, if the Futured paper image has a texture, I will sand it smooth with fine sandpaper, apply another coat of Future, then glue the plate to the model, usually with CA.
  16. Back in the 80s I had a buddy with Ford Granada that had a 351 with the 4 spd OD trans. He fit an interior and body parts from a Lincoln Versailles (same chassis), basically creating a manual shift Lincoln.
  17. I used to paint in the laundry room (mega lint), and now I paint in the basement entrance-way where the cat's litter box is. Polishing is my friend.
  18. If this was a nice car that was ravaged by a wild fire, then I would have to imagine there are usable or restorable chassis and under hood parts. Anything cast iron will be usable. Many heavy gauge steel parts would be restorable. The hood may have shielded bits from the most intense heat. When doing a full, concourse restoration, even some of the hard to find factory fasteners will be very useful.
  19. Yes, I'm well aware of that. I never said I was going to use the chassis from the '70. The '72 kit has a chassis. The frame just needs to be cut free from it. The '70 will give up its engine & drive train as well as other bits and details.
  20. If they mess the body up as bad as they did on the '74, then it won't matter if they do the '72. I'll be kitbashing my JoHan '72 with a Revell '70, whenever I get around to it.
  21. Very clean appearance. It has a serious period look, just screaming mid 70s. Very cool, I love it.
  22. Excellent weathering. Very realistic depiction of old, cracked and weathered paint. Looks great with those wheels, too. Nicely done.
  23. Don't fettle those panel gaps too well. It IS a Lotus, after all.
  24. The shiny stuff comes off quickly, but it will barely touch the clear lacquer under coat. It's the same with most 'recommended' chrome strippers. There is little point in stripping the shiney stuff if you can't remove the detail hiding clear under coat.
  25. Looks like a cool project. Are you starting with the Monogram Sport 300 kit?
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