Bainford

Very nice build. It has a very authentic look, the body looks like sheet metal. Cool.

This guy needs to work on cleaning up the mold lines

Been doing that for about the last 35 years, since I was about 10 years old. I do it to every model I build since. Although buying and selling built kits is something that never occurred to me then, I knew I wouldn't live forever and thought it would be cool if my name lived on in the models that I built. Kind of a legacy thing I guess. With the advent of the internet and online model communities, its an even better idea because it's quite likely that someone who knows of you will someday end up with some of your builts, so now when I build a kit my screen name goes on there too.

If chrome parts are going to be handled a lot during a build, I paint them with a coat of Micro Scale liquid mask. Especially useful when modifying chrome wheels or using a dremel to open up a chrome grill. When the part is ready to install, I just peel off the mask and the chrome underneath is as good as new. This would probably work on some painted finishes as well.

Great video. I'm in love! My ex would have shoved that camera... well, it wouldn't have been comfortable.

That's an awesome collection of vintage drag kits there Shane. I never even knew Revell made a Maverick Funny. Cool stuff.

In Canada the same product is available at Lee Valley stores. Lots of other goodies for the model builder there, too.

Hhhmmm.... I think you may be on to something here. This makes sense on several levels. Hot rodding; the recipe for world peace. I like it, but the world reserve of flathead parts is limited. I guess we'll just have to send all of the small block chevys we can find to the middle east.

Very nice work, and a very interesting kit. It looks good photographed on the race track.

Yes, photos are a must. This is one of my favorite early dragsters, and I would very much like to see your build of it.

I went to the Shearwater Model Show this weekend and scored a few treasures from the vendors. The Jag kit was won as a door prize.

Whoa, bummer dude. I once had a full size can of red emamel with a stuck nozzle that wouldn't stop spraying, even with the nozzle removed. I stuffed it into an empty garbage bag and held the top of the bag shut. As the can continued to empty itself, the garbage bag filled up like a balloon until it burst. Man, talk about a mess.

Thanks Tony. My schedule is always tight on these trips, but I will always check out the local shops if I can manage it. If I get to ted's, I'll let you know. Cheers.

I'm going on a business trip to Montreal next week or the week after. Does anyone know of any hobby shops in the Montreal area that I should check out.

Haha. That's cool, I love it.

I won't be getting the whole set, but I'll get a couple of them. I already bought the van, and will probably get the Dodge pick-up thingy and the 57 Chev. I never built these as a kid, had no interest in them at all. Still don't really, it's just a nostalga thing, that's all. Actually, it's a curiosity thing, too. I've never seen one built up in person, so I wanted to see what these consist of, particularly to see what the rear wheels are like (you know, see if they are worth robbing for a more serious project). My daughter, who is showing an interest in building, might take a shine to them. If so, I'll buy more. They are fun and simple, so they should make for a cool first glue kit.

Very cool, thanks for sharing. I have yet to find a decent site that sells a great selection of scratchbuilding bits, aside from plastic shapes, etc. Most things you need can be found, but it requires a lot of creative searching. I still have not found a place to buy truely small fasteners, and you really have to think outside the box when looking for a variety if small screen or mesh. I'm going to take a look around that site to see what they have to offer. Cheers.

Some great stuff there, Cranky. I really dig that old service station in the first few frames. Cool stuff.

As a general rule of thumb, you can apply decals after polishing, but not after waxing. By strict definition, polishing is the use of a very fine abrasive to remove the top layer of a finish and the scratches, lumps, and imperfections it may contain. Once the polishing residue has been cleaned up, the only thing that remains is a relatively smooth paint surface. The application of wax (after polishing) leaves a film that fills in the microscopic scratches left behind after polishing (the very nature of even a very fine polishing job will leave behind imperceptable scratches). The wax film makes finger prints easy to remove, resists dirt and stains, and protects the paint from oxidation. Wax, by design, prevents anything from sticking to it. To play it safe, all decals, foiling, clear coats, etc should be done before waxing, but can be done after polishing (be sure all polishing residue is thoroughly cleaned from the paint). The hard part sometimes is determining if the product you are using is a wax or polish. This isn't always clear on the label, and some products combine wax and polish in the same product. Just for the record, I personally use Tamiya polishes (coarse, fine, and finish), and I seldome use wax. I haven't actually tried applying decals after waxing, so I can't speak from personal experience there, but I have decaled and foiled after using these polishes with no problems.

Ditto. I bought mine just for the chassis, too. Mine will be shortened and powered with a fuel injected nailhead. Appearing at a forum near you, fall '10. Lots of other good parts in this one, too. I already robbed the rear wheels for my current Chevelle bracket racer project.

As mentioned above, this thing pushes the definition of open wheel. It looks huge, too. Despite the fact that this car is designed with road course considerations (when apparently the current Dallara was not), a pack of these things on a tight road course could be trouble. While I understand that asthetics and engineering do not necessarily go hand in hand, it looks truely awkward. It certainly does give the impression that it would be wrought with handling issues. Oh yeah, it's ugly, too. I also agree with the comments of harry and others; spec racers do not interest me in the least. I also agree with Harry's comments on race car speed; High speed is impressive, but does not necessarily make for good racing. However, just reducing speeds is not the answer. For the racing to be truley good, the cars have to be driving on the edge. This gives the drivers some driving to do, and separates the men from the boys. I think this is why earlier forms of racing are so much more interesting to watch. Put max effort into driver safety, give them plenty of power, and set them up so they are driving on the edge whilst battling for position. And to keep it interesting, encourage multiple chassis and engine manufacturers and individualised engineering (allow teams to modify their cars).

I frequently use BMF as a masking medium. It's very thin so there is very little edge build-up. However, I haven't tried the 'new and improved' stuff yet. From what I hear it may not be as user friendly.

Ditto. One of my all time favorites. Been trying to find a copy on DVD. I get positively giddy when they flog the 427 Cobra and Ferrari Daytona in the canal. Can you imagine treating originals like that today? Too cool!

Thanks Harry. It seems that I'm already on IP Board.