Bainford

Check with both Keith Marks and Rays Kits. They have decal sheets with emblems for some cars. If I was on my laptop, I'd post links.

Cool style. Nice custom work. Lots of slicing and dicing, and it all looks great.

Oh yeah, that's cool! Very nice work here. Good thing those Ford small blocks are tiny. Really digging this concept. Love it!

Lovely Deuce. That's a real beauty. Very nice work on the detailing, too. Great looking engine.

Any time I have attempted anything like this I ended up with chipped paint.

Good looking split windows. They look great as a pair. Nice work. I just bought an AMT split window this week, going to build a red stocker similar to yours.

Those alcohol wipes look like a neat idea. I have recently picked up a microfibre cloth, the type used for cleaning eye glasses, but haven't tried it yet. After giving it a good cleaning I'm going to try it as a lint-free wipe with alcohol.

Haha Cheers Timmy Sorry for the confusion Jack. I was just being silly.

Ummm... I don't understand.

My mistake, Les. Cheers.

No, there are several other buffing metalizers, including Magnesium, Titanium, Gunmetal, Dark Anodic Gray, Burnt Metal, and Exhaust. More than half the Metalizer line was buffable.

There are other threads (in the Questions section and in the Tips section) on chrome substitutes where many products are tested/compared, including Green Stuff. Without having done any comparison testing myself, the most promising of them seems to be the Revell product. No one has presented any information on ALSA Corp chrome though, and that's the one I am most keen to know about. I think I will be pulling the trigger on that stuff soon, and have a go.

I had a dehydrator without temp control, and it ran hot too, about 130 F. I just left the lid off altogether. It would then run about 100-105 degrees. It probably works better that way too, as the air would flow more freely. I always keep a thermometer in mine when it's running.

That's fish eyes, caused by some type of contamination on or in the plastic, despite the cleaning. It needs to be stripped and cleaned with a more aggressive cleaner. Rubbing alcohol is isopropyl alcohol. The only additive is water. 91% isopropyl alcohol is rubbing alcohol that contains 91% isopropanol and 9% water.

Welcome to the forum, Randall. You picked a great one for your first. Lots of good people here willing to assist when you need it. Enjoy the forum.

Very interesting career, Alex. Sounds like you have been a part of some very cool stuff. Welcome to our humble forum.

That's some hard crazing. The plastic has been attacked by a hot solvent. That one car was not effected may have more to do with the plastic rather than the paint. Models from different manufacturers, different eras, or even different batches can have variations in the composition of their plastic. One kit may have the potential to resist the solvent, so may not be able to rule out the primer so quickly. Is anything else common to all three paint jobs? What about the paint thinner? If it's common to at least the crazed paint jobs, it could be a culprit too. Just spitballing

Many of the later JoHan kits have a ton of flash and require a lot of clean up. The Superbird and the Rambler are among these later issues. Not to discourage you, just so you will be aware. I like them myself, but they can require some clean-up.

Do not get the Salton brand dehydrator. I have had three different models of Salton dehydrator, and all were junk that only lasted a few days to a few months. I highly recommend a dehydrator, just not a Salton.

Welcome Dave. Don't be alarmed at the rate the stash is growing. Just hang around this forum for a while and you will soon be come acclimatised. Your enablers are standing by. Cheers.

I don't think you need to sand any higher. If the body had a character line you could remove the paint up to that, but being a NASCAR type body, there is no such demarcation. Once all of the paint is removed from the repair area, you need to paint that area green with the same coverage as the rest of the body. That will be tricky, especially at the feathered edge. Then, the whole car can be given another coat or two, or whatever. A seamless repair may be difficult to achieve. Regarding the masking, you can do edge to edge, or paint the whole car one color (green), then paint the second colour. As you have noticed though, the color of the undercoat effects the color of the overcoat, so that has to be considered. That's my two cents worth. Others may have better advice.

Welcome to the forum, Bill. Post up a couple of your builds when you get a chance. Cheers.

Welcome to the forum, Wayne.

Welcome to the forum Tony, and welcome back to the hobby. You have found the right place to get back into it. Lots of helpful people here. Cheers.

Welcome to the forum, Kevin.