Bainford

Nice model, Matt. I didn't know these existed. I have seen this car in person on three separate occasions and each time I was stunned by it's wicked lines. It's one of those cars that makes you just yearn to jump in, fire it up, and have a go to see if it feels as good as it looks.

I have always refused to support their business model. If Michaels ceases to sell kits, I wouldn't even notice.

If it went to auction after being restored, it would indeed bring stupid money. And a generation later it would be worth a small fraction of the purchase price. As someone noted above, it is a generational thing. It's value is in the nostalgia it holds for a small demographic in a specific age range, and that generation is buying farms at an increasing rate. In twenty years there will be few people left who know what it is, and far fewer who care.

How does the 429 CJ compare the one in the Revell 70 Torino GT? I consider the Torino engine to be the top standard for a Ford 385 series engine, and I'm curious to know how the Mustang engine compares.

Very cool project, Ulf. This is one Chevy-in-a-Ford I can get behind. Looking cool.

Baldwin Motion pimped Skylarks? I had no idea.

Very cool build. I kind of dig these H series trucks. You have done a masterful job of creating this one. Love it!

Good looking Charger, Craig. Nice paint work.

That's a shame. Cursing the original builder is part of the fun.

Ok, that helps. A couple of things that I didn't realise before. I see you do have an airbrush type compressor, and with a maximum output of 57 psi you won't have to worry about the max inlet pressure rating of any new regulator. The other thing I misunderstood was calling it a CP regulator. In industry, CP refers to Chicago Pneumatic, and very highly respected maker of industrial pneumatic equipment. Your regulator is Central Pneumatic, which is likely a cheap Chinese knock-off. This notion is supported by the almost complete lack of technical information online. The cycling off & on seems odd (to me) for a tankless compressor, though perfectly normal for a compressor with tank. I just had a look at the manual and it is in fact working properly, with auto shut-off at 58 psi and restart at 43 psi. So, the cycling is perfectly normal. I'm not sure how this will perform when airbrushing without a tank, but the cycling pressure range is perfectly workable for airbrushing. I think your regulator is indeed too heavy duty for airbrushing. During my quick search I couldn't find it's designed working range, but being fitted with a 160 psi gauge suggests it is probably intended for industrial use. I would recommend getting a regulator intended specifically for airbrushing. Get a good one, and make sure it has a built in moisture trap. That will get your pressure settings corrected. I would also strongly recommend fitting a small tank or air pig between your compressor and the regulator. This will reduce the frequency of the on/off cycling, and airbrushing from a tank is much smoother and easier, allows the airbrush to work with the precision it was designed for without the pulsating air supply directly from the compressor. So, it seems to as though the compressor is suitable for the job and working properly, and that your current regulator is either duff, or just the wrong spec for airbrushing.

Well aint that purdy. Obviously, the Buick kit didn't come with side skirts. Unfortunately, with $30-$40 shipping to Canada, anything like this is completely unreasonable now.

Welcome to the forum, Shaun. You have found the right place. some friendly builders here always ready to offer advice. Cheers.

It's hard to say without knowing more about your regulator. A photo or model number would help. However, I get the feeling you may have a regulator that is not designed to work at the low pressures used when airbrushing. Regulators used for shop tools, etc, do not regulate pressure accurately (if at all) down to airbrushing pressure. What is the range of pressure on your regulator gauge? Look for a regulator designed specifically for airbrushing. It will regulate pressure accurately within a range of 10-40 psi or so (and will often have gauges that max out at 60-70 psi). Don't buy it at Harbor Freight, etc. Good, accurate regulators are available from the online airbrush shops and can be had at a decent price. If you are diving into airbrushing, you can save yourself a lot of headaches by ensuring you have the right gear. With airbrushing, there are plenty of variables to get your head wrapped around, and when trying to sort painting issues (and there will be some) it is a huge help to know your equipment is not one of them. When buying an airbrush regulator, be sure that the inlet pressure rating of the regulator is at least as high as the output of your compressor. If it isn't, you may have to retain your current regulator to regulate the pressure to around 60 psi or so, then install the airbrush regulator downstream from that.

There's a lesson in there somewhere.

A rare one, that. It seems almost universal that early glue bombs have the skirts welded on along with every body ornament in the box. Good luck with the glass.

As Bill says, it depends greatly on the kit and how it was built. When things get real gluey and two parts are really welded together, you may have to sacrifice one part to save another. Which one you sacrifice depends on which one is easiest to replace (with a another available part) or scratch build. Glass is often a difficult one, brittle plastic that is welded to the roof. If the glass is available from another kit or not too difficult a shape to make your own, you may have to grind it out of the body.

Thanks for the link. Never heard of that place, but they have a lot of cool decals. Some real unusual stuff.

Scott, it looks like this project is quickly getting out of hand.

Goody. Looking forward to this kit more then most. I picked up a Boss 351, but it is the Mach 1 I really want.

Cheers Steve. That's very helpful. Clearly they are quite simple kits. Would look great on a shelf from half way across the room, but not bear close inspection. Some of them are indeed pricey, might scoop one up if an exceptional deal pops up. Would be a fun quick-build for the right price. Thanks much.

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Col! This will be a wild project. And yes, that trailer needs to be built, too. I wonder what he hauled it with.

Very cool project. AMT offered a very nice Allison engine as a stand-along kit, but hard to find now. It was also made available in two different Competition Parts Packs, and these are readily available ebay, etc. Prices are a bit high on the current offerings, around $40-$60, but good deals do come up from time to time. The engine was also available in a Thunderbird funny car called Allison Thunderland, and was reissued a number of years ago, but they go for more money than the Parts Packs.

That is some serious box-art porn!