Bainford

I considered doing just that, so thanks for posting this pic. Getting a set of those nice resin Gottis to Canada will be quite expensive, so this kit seems a good deal (can always use another 240Z, and I don't have a G nose). I was wondering how good the kit wheels were. Looking at the photo, it seems the resin offerings might be a better looking wheel. I now wonder though, how does the diameter of the wheels compare, kit vs resin. I prefer them smaller, and many of the wheels in Japanese kits are quite oversized.

Cool 1:1, and very nice replica. You captured the look of the original very well.

Welcome to the forum, Topher. This is a great place to sooth that modelling jones. Cheers.

Cheers. Great driving roads, when they get around to re-paving them.

Oh, goody goody! Great project, Pierre. Looking forward to seeing this one come together.

I'll be following your build. I have been planning a similar kit bash. Great to see there are decent wheels available. I have been looking unsuccessfully for a set of the 'good' AMT wheels. I built two of the AMT '68 Shelbys back in the 80s, both of them the molded-in-red Snake Bite issue, but they had different wheels. The first one I built had the wheel spokes molded correctly with the cavity in the outboard surface of the spoke. The other kit, seemingly the same issue, had the wheels retooled with solid spokes, probably like the ones in your kit. I was always curious about that.

The silver one reminds me of the trans in the Duke's Charger.

Eastern Shore of Nova Scotia, Canada.

Hhmmm... curious, this correlation between exciting driving experience and dangerous cars. I find modern sports cars, in all their engineering excellence, to be cold and uninspiring. It begs the question; is the most exciting drive also the most dangerous? Is it a necessary element? I think it is more a product of the fact that the most engaging drives are in the cars with the lightest weight, which by extension, are the least protective. But nonetheless, I do think the danger element is an significant ingredient. Mortality in your own hands, stuff like that. How much does a Beck Spyder weigh?

Cheers Steve. I have done a little looking inline, and see that they are indeed intended to be motorised. I hadn't realised that. It's not a real big deal for a curbside shelf model, except I imagine accommodating the motor and batteries in a 1/24 F1 car must require some compromises. It's hard to imagine a curbside F1 car. When I made the post above, I was watching an auction on ebay for seemingly a good deal, ended now. The next 'good deal' I spot, I may pull the trigger.

Ditto my Lotus Europa, which is quite likely the most dangerous road car ever built. And, it is driven in the enthusiastic corner-carving manner for which it was intended. My sig is testimony.

These images should help. With your specific exhaust manifolds, the wires will route to the plugs from underneath. There appears to be no indication of plug location on your heads, so just mark for plug holes in the appropriate location near the base of the cylinder heads and drill them.

That is an exceptionally good looking hinge. About the best I've seen. Beautifully crafted.

I am very interested in your Dumas project. I have been quite curious about these models for a few years, and I've wondered what they are all about. My interest is in the 1/24 scale kits. There are some nice looking ones, but quite pricey to take a chance on, so I'm watching your build with interest. I think I'd like to try one.

Good looking Deora. The colour looks right on. I never cared for the side exhaust treatment, either.

That last photo is about the best I've seen in period. Great photo. I may have to snag a copy.

Cool concept Claude, and fine execution. I see you sprung for nitrogen to inflate the tires.

Wow! Such a clean and tidy build. And the paint work is as close to perfect as I have seen. This is an absolutely stunning model, any photo could pass for the 1:1. A standard to aspire to, and simply lovely to look at. Great photography, too. I just can't say enough good things about this incredible build. I struggle to create that which you have achieved. My hat is off to you, sir.

Be aware, the photos at that link are a bit deceiving in that most photos are of the model, but the photos of the wheels are of 1:1 wheels, not the actual kit wheels.

Somehow, I missed this one being posted. Impressive work, Charlie. So much detail to check out. Of all the glorious details, somehow the weld bead on the drive shaft stood out. Too cool. Great craftsmanship.

Fantastic build of a very interesting race car. I really love these uncommon subjects, especially race cars and sports cars of this period. Nice work here, very fine detailing, especially being small scale.

Beautiful modified. Lovely work.

Very nice Lancia. Great save.

I use a paint knife or paint spatula. The one I have is similar to number 1 or 2 in the photo. They are made of stainless steel and very thin and flexible at the end, just right for applying putty. Get one at Michaels or anywhere art supplies are sold.

I have not used these myself, but fitting one should be fairly straightforward. However, as Steve pointed out, it's a bit too late now for this build. For the next one... You need to delete the original distributor and drill a hole to accept the shaft of the pre-wired one. You must also drill a small hole in each spark plug location in the cylinder heads. These holes need to be a bit larger than the wires. A #73-#69 drill bit should work. The more easily obtainable 1/32" is ok too. You will need a pinvise for the drill bits. Glue the new distributor shaft in its hole. Once set, route the individual wires to the spark plug holes, cut to length, and apply glue. CA works well here, applied with a toothpick. Route and drape the wires for an authentic look before cutting and gluing. Adding PE wire looms can give your wiring job a tidy look. As for the boots, the material provided with your distributor kit looks quite out of scale. You'd be better off not bothering with it. ...or, better yet, give a shot at developing the skill of wiring an engine without a pre-wired distributor. Personally, I think many of these pre-wired distributors don't look any better than no wires at all. If you want a good, authentic looking engine, there is no substitute for doing it by scratch. And it's really not that hard at all. Once you have done a couple, the basic method becomes second hand. Many engines provide unique challenges, but that is also why wiring by scratch is better; it's not a one size fits all. Best of all, that cool looking engine you're admiring is all your own work. Either way, good luck with your project.