Krazy Rick

Sharp model Tim - thanks

Thanks for sharing this Mike, very supberb model

Nice job Malk, thanks

You have great taste & styling sense, that interior would look super

You put your heart & soul into these dioramas Ed, and it shows - thanks much

Carefully enlarge & roughen the sink mark area, use Miliput ( Red box ) 2 part putty. slightly dampen the area, mix a small amount of putty, fill the depression and smooth using a damp finger & applicator ( piece of a credit card. let set & sand with 600 wet/dry sandpaper on a sanding block ( clothes peg, hard wood block, etc. ) .... and bit of warm water; this should take about 30 seconds if you filled the area fairly even, before letting dry ) .... Grey Primer coat, super light black mist/guide coat lightly 600 wet sand to check area for high/low spots...... ( chances are good it will be perfect at this point though ) - now paint 1! - good luck

Thanks Ludwig, really nice build

This looks great even before completion, you really have a piece to be proud of there - I love these

Clean build, love that scoop !! - thanks

Are you storing the decals in an ziplock bag, or airtight container ? I would contact Slixx & see what they suggest, they'll probably just tell you to return them; but I know storage is everything.

I wasn't sure that this was 1/25 .... I have one around here somewhere I've been putting off ..... I thought it was 1/24 ( which I don't build ) ; never sure with Revell/Monogram stuff .... I find alot of the 1/24 too bulky looking. Nice job on yours

Great looking jeep - thanks

I don't have a gold watch here Jim, but I may just happen to have a pair of Zircon encrusted tweezers

I really think it's almost there, and now, it's just a matter of a few design touches to get the balance. Header/sidepipe location would greatly change the flow, and perhaps think about reworking the fins ( gradually widen 1/16" or so ) - not to the radical point, but just to help balance.I would " mirror" the grill ( what ever you decide on, keeping in mind, that horizontal grill bars will make the front appear wider, .... maybe a bullet-type/ 49 Custom Merc/Monogram 58 T-bird Custom grill treatment to solve this ? - it would give an more aggresive look ) ; with a rear treatment to keep a flow & probably try to work in another little T-Bird element ( gauges, seats, or some small front exterior addition ) ...... to acheive design consistency. I do know this will be a super nice build when your done - your work is clean & proper - I'm digging it - thanks for sharing !!

Bravo Jim - perfect timing - Crazy .... like a fox !!!

There is no real "Chart", for paint drying., if it is pre-mixed / thinned, bottle, jar, or can - each color & batch will vary. All paints gas out, no matter what type. If you prefer to control of drying times, in oder to accomodate certain conditions; this will involve using & mixing automotive paints & thinners/reducers. ( and possibly a few more items, depending on how far you wish to go. ) I don't doubt that someone ( at least one "Pro" ) .... has come up with a chart, but in my opinion, there is only one true test - Smell - there shouldn't be even a hint of paint fumes.

Bravo Bob, you are a true master - your attention to every tiny detail, brings this model to another level. The memory of this post, will serve me in the future; perhaps when I am having issues with scratch building a part ........ and definitely, when I read about a slug having a hard time putting together a "Groovy Grader"

If we think back to us getting started in the hobby, and where our minds were - building time was special time, mostly fun ( besides the few disasters ) ....... distractions, not too many, this was good; now fast forward to this time. too many distractions, some obvious; others more sublime. I've limited my TV time to 5 hours per 7 days, internet, 60 minutes per day - ( at the very most ) , hand held cell / gadgets; Zero, don't gots none , don't want them, nor need them. The only way to take the time back, is to make an honest estimate of how & where your time is being used, for say, a week ( you'll be shocked ) . Start chopping some of the "useless wasted time" off & mark that as "Fun Bench Time" ..... you'll feel better & have something to admire & be proud of.

Try this, it's easy - Sumo Paint http://www.sumopaint.com/home/

Pat, Just tell them the truth ..... we don't age in Ontario

Anyways ................................................. Uh ...................................... Merry Christmas Dave !!

Hmm....if you want to put it that way ....... I'll have to agree. ( Now that I've worn out my fingers on the previous post )

Last time I checked, you didn't need to submit a resume here, by the way; I do have plenty business knowledge & have operated a hobby store ( albeit small & a while ago ) ........ As a consumer, I feel that the pricing on kits & these packs, have gone way out. .... and yes, I am well aware that we all have a choice to purchase. If the cost of having these products made in China will continue to get worse, then what was the idea of sending all the manufacturing there in the first place ? Thanks to Tom, we all have a grip on how the economics of this works; ( thanks Tom )..... despite this ..... the price still sucks . I'm sure I'm not the only one who would prefer more reasonable pricing, and I'm not buying into this fear & threat of the hobby being at stake if we all don't just shut up, play nice & buy without questioning - that is pure garbage

And you can provide numbers and evidence to support your position ?...please enilghten, let's have it. - Guys like Ron, Mike & yourself can contribute love offerings & explanations all you want, I have no problem paying a fair price for an item I want; but I refuse to give into obvious stupidity. In my books, that isn't being cheap; that's being wise.

The model is nice, but the blue print is annoying.