Paul Payne

Thanks all for the comments- this is one I have had in mind for awhile. The body is the AMT 29 A roadster, chassis was cobbled together from some junk Green Hornet frames. Years ago I saw a wide tired track nose model called "Mighty Mouse" which was the inspiration. The front blown flathead was inspired by the So-Cal coupe. I don't usually bother with up tops, but decided a really low one would be appropriately evil.

Suede brushes are brass and would be good to clean files and sanding sticks. I also wipe them with my thumb (especially for putty dust), then scrub with an old tooth brush.

Great comparison shot- looks like some material removal would be a good start- the 35 rear fender peaks and rear slope also look a little lower in relation to the rear deck.

Just finished the track nose AV8- the competition will probably see the rear view.....

Just got this one finished. I think the rear view is probably the one the competition would see...

I use dressmakers pins for my pivots. Cut them to length after fitting, then cap the cut end with a short length of appropriate tubing.

I have a bunch of cedar cigar wrappers that are very thin and can be cut into any size strips you want. Don't smoke cigars, scrounged them out of discarded tubes. Can't recommend a source except for a tobacco store or a friend who smokes cigars ( they smell like cedar- not cigar!) Someday I plan on planking the AMT runabout with these- yeah, one more project.....

The original kit was released in the very early sixties aa both a motorized and static version. I added a drive train and flathead to mine. Makes a nice tow vehicle for the streamliner.

Espo nailed the prepping, which is actually pretty standard for any material. With resin you will be using other adhesives instead of styrene cement.

Thanks for the photos- the differences in the fenders, especially the rear ones, is subtle- I'll try to find a side by side to really see the differences. I feel the AMT 36 front fenders are a little too short in front of the wheels- any opinions on this?

After a lot of thought, I am going to try Evergreen structural shapes for something similar to what is pictured.

Guys, thanks for the info.

Does anyone on the forum have hands on experience with 3d printing? Any advice on printers or materials welcome. Right now I am looking at printing egg crate grille material either as a block to be filed and sanded to final shape or as a finished shape. I do have many years experience of 3d modeling in the foundry industry, so building a model would not be a problem. Also, the extruding material should be compatible with super glue or epoxy and paint or Molotow pens for a chrome finish. Any thoughts or info very welcome. Here is a picture of the kind of grille I would like to print:

Thank you for all the positive comments- this was my first experience with weathering. During a move, a few items were lost, including the dory torch and a knife. A dory torch was a can filled with kerosene which could be lit for setting at night. The tubs of long line were made from thin cord and thread, with very small dry fly hooks. The marker buoy was formed using a Monogram beer wagon beer keg covered in wood staves cut from scrap. I am still working on converting some pix from bitmap to jpeg format, and plan on building replacements for the lost parts.

I seem to recall Don had a body for the Phantom Corsair, also a Duesenberg boattail speedster. I don't know if he produced any similar bodies. Can anyone supply info about these, maybe even a copy of his product list? This would at least be a cool piece of memorabilia. Thanks to any and all......

Beautiful old school custom, love the paint color!

Pat, that's a great little camper trailer! Looks small enough to be towed by an MGTC or a Mini!

Great color- I'm a sucker for maroon or dark red- looking forward to more photos.

Thanks all for the info.

So far, the Elmer's clear glue is holding well, including being transported on two car rides of 40 miles each way. I didn't keep track of the drying time- maybe the next project!

Does anyone know if a conversion kit was ever made for the AMT 1936 Ford to build a 1935 Ford?

Thanks all. I discovered several of my photos were saved as bitmap format. I am working on resaving them as jpegs to post.

Avoid high and low temperatures, high humidity or any other moisture.

Some years ago I built a Midcoast Models dory kit. The instructions suggested a yacht tender but- since I grew up in Gloucester, Massachusetts, I decided to build a working long line dory instead. I have a copy of a book about the schooner Adventure, the last long line fishing schooner, with a lot of reference photos. Their last trip was in 1953, same year I was born. The first picture is a typical build- the others are my build.

Guys, try Micromark as another source. I never use the smaller bits in a power tool- only with a pin vise. The one I use has a 4 jaw chuck and a sliding collar for tightening. This was part of my dad's watchmaking tools so probably dates to the 40's. Some of my drill bits date back that far too- maybe better quality back then?