ZTony8

Sometimes it seems to be one specific kit (of any model) that's unbuildable,where the thing fights you all the way.I've had that with a few AMT kits over the years.Then your fellow modelers get their own kit of the same subject and have no problems at all.

Nice looking trio.I don't envy you having to polish that '64 Impala.Cars like that with many horizontal creases are a bear to do.The rounded bodies like the other two are so much easier to do.

Heed the cautions about TS-13(personal experience here).The exception would be in using TS-65 pearl clear.That stuff must be formulated differently because it doesn't crack if applied before 30 days(again,personal experience).

It's the 1971 LeMans winning white #22 Marko/van Lennep Martini car.Thanks for the input.

I don't know about cost but unless there's some breakthrough for speed I think it would take more than a day just to make one body.I base this on a 1/43 scale 3D printed Infiniti coupe I saw being made last January at the Detroit Auto Show.I asked the woman at the booth how long it took to make the model and she told me it took about 9 hours.I thought this stuff was supposed to be faster.

The Toyota and Mitsubishi released from the movie series by AMT have two of the worst examples of engines ever put in a kit.The Toyota twin turbo is supposedly plumbed incorrectly while the Mitsubishi has the turbo hung off the intake side of the engine without having any connection to the exhaust to drive the turbo setup.It makes you want to just glue the hoods shut and build them as curbsides.

I've got a Porsche 917 kit in a Testor box.I THINK it's a rebox of a Heller kit but a model buddy of mine seems to think it's a Fujimi.I lean to Heller because this kit has a full engine(basic,but full).I understand that the Fujimi kit only has enough of a lump under the rear deck to hold up the engine fan.Can someone shed more light on this?

Is blending clear still made for real cars?That was/is some interesting stuff.I was at a paint sales training course in Chicago in 1989 and blending clear was demonstrated there.I couldn't see the blend on a test fender that was shot with two distinct shades of color.

I'm at work so I don't have ready access to a can but there may be a recoat window time on the label.

I think that few are built because the kit is such a bear to assemble.The tie rod/steering damper is too narrow for the front axle beam,the engine components are fiddly to assemble and you need the patience of a saint(and maybe pins) to get the headlamps and the front "bumper" to stay in place.I haven't yet ramped up the courage to try assembling another one of those kits that I have in my stash.

At the D.A.A.M show I bought the reissue 1/20 scale AMX,the 1/16 scale Hawaiian funny car,the reissue '32 Ford Victoria and whole bunch of photoetch and decal items.

Side note on the Roush Mustang body-Back in the 90s the sports car club I'm in got a tour of some of Roush's facilities courtesy of one of our then members who worked there at the time.In one of the rooms was a body side from one of Tommy Kendall's cars.The Roush tour guide explained that this panel was an older style panel with a rounded belt line(in the above pics it's the body line right over the number "12").The found that a sharply creased body line there gave much better aero numbers so that's the style the cars all got.

There will also be the first Motor City Drag Racing Slot Car Nationals there.Separate entry fee to participate.

Quite often there will be recoat window information on the spray can label.Follow the guidelines.If there isn't any recoat window information then it's usually safe to recoat at any time.

Lacquers dry from the bottom layer out through solvent evaporation.That's why if you put another coat on top lacquer before it's dry the solvents are trapped and can't evaporate,leading to cracking.

Repaint it green and call it "Vegan".

GTX-Go to Alclad's website.They have application hints there.

Do it! 1)MPC 1/20th scale STP turbine car 2)MPC Ford GT Mark IV 3)MPC '69 Dodge Coronet 4)Tamiya Leyton House March F1 car 5)Gunze Sangyo Ferrari 250 SWB Berlinetta Fugeddaboudit: 1)AMT '40 Ford sedan delivery 2)Revell early issue '57 Chevy 3)Monogram '56 Chevy hardtop 4)Monogram '69 Camaro 5)Monogram '70 Chevelle

There will be a "primer table" in the model contest.The placard will say "Display Only". Over 220 vendor tables already,just a few more left.

Last month I finished a Tamiya Toyota 84c that I started in 1986.

You can always go with Tamiya TS-13.It's back on the market.Just be aware that you have to apply it within 30 minutes of applying a color coat or wait AT LEAST 30 days if you don't catch the 30 minute window.If you fail to follow the guidelines the color coat will crack under the clear due to different solvent evaporation rates of the color and the clear coat. The next suggestion would be to use Testor One Coat(non one coat) clear.It sprays out thicker from the can than TS-13 but there are no cracking issues and can be applied over decals without the worry of destroying them(unlike TS-13).

At the Sylvania show last Saturday I picked up three unbuilt kits- a Hasegawa Jaguar IMSA XJR-9,a Tamiya Lotus 102B,and an early issue Tamiya Brabham BT46-ten bucks each.

I picked up a Street Fighter for $5 last year at a Downriver Club meeting.I'm not really into Tom Daniel's stuff or show rods but for the price I couldn't go wrong.I'll build it some day and probably change some things on it.

Everything I read about Jeremy Clarkson points to him being an out of control,egomaniacal,self centered jerk.He's the least tolerable of the three hosts on the program.

I had that kit and it's sedan companion more than once each.I still have most of the decal sheet from the kit,too.