ZTony8

I'll be there but not planning on bringing much-haven't finished but 1 or 2 models this year. I keep losing kit parts.

That's a very nice looking model!I like that blue/silver two tone.

All the kits I saw were $7.99 each.

I liked the idea of the race car and it's fresh thinking-even if it's turned out to be less than a winner.But that street version is just bloated and ugly.

I checked out the Ollie's in Sterling Heights,Mi. and they had nothing that interested me-the AMT 2009 and 2012 Corvettes,the Lindberg 1/20 scale Vega,and the reboxed IMC Cougar.

I have the Testor/Heller version in my stash.I hope it comes out as nice as your version did.

As opposed to mikemodeler's experience among the best kit deals I ever got was at the NSRA Kalamazoo show swap meet a few years ago.I recall getting a couple of Revell early 90s Grand Prixs(at $3 each),a Jo-Han '34 Mercedes roadster and couple of other kits.The Mercedes was the most expensive-I think I gave $7 for it.And I just missed grabbing an early issue AMT '50 Ford convertible too.

If the kit quality was better than their Ferrari Testarossa effort with Testor,then I might be interested.If not,no way would I waste the money on it.

Nice looking job on what was,for me,a very frustrating, and fiddly kit.

Holy water dispenser in the dash?Nah!Holy water in the cooling system to prevent overheating.

You could pick out the fasteners with some bare metal toned paint.I'd recommend steel rather than aluminum to tone down some of the brightness and lessen the "silver measles" look.Late model vehicles with aluminum suspension components would have those done in a shade of dull or dirty aluminum-again to kill off any over brightness.

Other than seeing a built test shot at Sylvania I haven't seen the kit.But I'm wondering if the '71 Torino kit wouldn't cure most of the chassis concerns.

If I owned one of the involved cars I'd never bring it in for it's "fix".

If you have multiples of the same kit,toss them or give them away or sell them.For an OOB build with liberal guidelines shoot clear lacquer on the pages to stiffen them then paint them and use them as spoilers or tonneau covers or ground effect pieces.

I picked up three cans of Tamiya paint and an old Monogram slant nose 911 kit from the Model Cave,a snapper C7 from Michaels at50% off,and another Revell '29 Model A kit(that's #4) from Hobby Lobby.

I know what you mean about the foiling.I'm just starting to do the foil on my '53 Hornet and those miniscule belt line mouldings are driving me nuts trying to get them done!I'm dreading trying to do the side window frames.This model may be the first one where I need my Optivisor to do foiling.

With their recent adjustment of the kit shelves Michaels has cut way back on their kit offerings.Mostly now it's just the snap together kits with a few glue kits.I didn't see any tags for the '29 A kit at Michaels but maybe they'll stock it later(?).But I do have three 50% off coupons to use so maybe I'll buy the 2014 Corvette snapper.

Alclad makes a specific silver base to go under their candy colors.

If you can find Super Clean(not Castrol anymore) it's a bit stronger and seems to work better.

Advise to sand/file the headlamp opening before painting?

Talk about pokey engines-GM had several P.R.O.M updates for the 1982 models in an attempt to increase performance.They had only limited success.It took the introduction of the 2.2 liter engine(and the 1.8 and 2.0 liter turbo Brazilian engines in the Pontiac,Buick and Olds) to noticeably increase performance.

See,that's the thing about money.It just lets people exhibit their bad taste.

I'm in the midst of doing that same kit.The chassis plate in my kit has metallic overspray on it so I'll have to spray it black,too.And thanks for the heads-up about the rear valance panel.

Yeah,I outgrew the Stooges after about age nine.And I won't buy a kit just for a commercial tie in.

Over the weekend I picked up two of the new '29 Model A kits and the Blue Bandito plus a photo-etch set for the R/M '32 Fords.