ZTony8

Your model came out looking very nice-it's tempting me to go buy another one and improve on my first effort with this kit.I too had fit and adherence issues with some of the parts and couldn't get the seat inserts to be the color I intended.

Since I can't access Tim Boyd's review here at work to view any pics I'll ask this here-Are the parts made in the grainy type plastic like the '54 Hudson or are they the smooth type like the '55 and '56 Chryslers and the earlier Hudsons?

I noticed an extra front axle(with poseable steering) on the parts tree of the R/M '41/'43 Willys pickup and it got me wondering- What other kit shared that chassis?

If it's an unbuilt kit and the parts are still bagged,take them out of the bags and toss out the bags.Then put the pieces where they won't get lost and let air circulate around them for a while.Do the same for a built up model.

Yes,that's a 1/24 scale Monogram kit.The odd body proportions give it away.

Don't forget the Lakewood traction bars.

Looks like you sanded all the high spots down.The new paint job should be very smooth!

If the decals haven't crumbled into pieces spray some clear lacquer over them.That will make them useable.

Check the price of the Tamiya primer at your LHS.Often the price will be comparable with Hobby Lobby and it's 40% off coupon.

There was a '55 Mercury(and I think a '56,too) in the 1/32 scale series.

Tamiya clear is well known to be finicky when it comes to applying it over the color coats.Either apply it within 30 minutes or wait at least two weeks to apply it.Otherwise it's prone to crack.

The Testor fine grain lacquer primer is also very nice.In the past I've had some coverage issues with Testor paint over Tamiya primer.

Tamiya has several weathering sets available with different effects from the different sets .

I counted a few years ago and the figure was around 900.I now have more.My guess is around 1300 at this point.I sell off some but I buy more.I wonder if the kits are breeding down in my basement. Invest in styrene futures! Tony

Looks like the Soviets copied a '34 Hupmobile or Buick.

I have about 1300 kits in my stash so even at $6 a kit that's $7800 sitting in my basement.Many of my kits are definitely worth more than six bucks(and some less,like the NASCAR stuff) so the total is likely well over the $7800 figure.The value sneaks up on you because the money isn't spent all at once.

I'm thinking that if complete accuracy isn't of primary importance that the chassis and running gear from the recently re-release of the "Crew Chief" '71 Blazer might work well.

I'm going to swap the wire wheel covers and the steel wheels with covers between this kit and the '52 convertible kit.The convertible deserves the wire covers.

If this graininess won't be a factor,fine.I've already started sanding my kit's body.I'm just wondering about why the change from the previously released Moebius Hudson and Chrysler kits.

Anybody figure out the reason for the rough finish on the Moebius '54 Hudson bodies?The '52 and '53 kits weren't like this.Did their Chinese supplier forget to polish the mold?Something else? I wonder/hope if this issue will be corrected in a future run.

Maybe a 1941 Packard 180 LeBaron Sport Brougham.With money no object I'd have a lot more than one car!

Two weekends ago I helped rid Hobby Lobby of some marked down kits.I bought a '67 Corvette,a Baldwin-Motion '70 Camaro,a '37 Ford Coupe street rod,the AMT '62 Bel Air "Northwind" version,and a Garlits Wynnsjammer.

Bring whatever you have finished to the D.A.A.M. show at Macomb College in November.It already looks fantastic!

TS-13 goes on thinner than Testor Wet Look but it has a well known trait of being finicky as far as proper application time over the color coats.Wet Look doesn't have that problem and is far less worrisome to apply over decals.The two clears polish out nicely but Testor takes more effort because of it's thicker coats.

My favorite,the Brabham BT52, wasn't even on the list.Fools.