Force

Well both Revell US and Revell AG are sold to a company named Blitz 18-313 from Munich Germany, so you might be able to convince them to do the kits when all has settled down.

The Fairlane/Thunderbolt is much shorter as you say Bill, but not only that, the Fairlane is a unibody and the Galaxie/300 has a frame so it woun't work anyway. So the '60 Starliner chassis is the way to go.

Revell announced the return of the 29 Model A Roadster for 4th quarter 2017 and the kit number for it was 85-4463, the original number for this kit from 2015 was 85-4322...but that was well before the issue with Hobbico and the sale of Revell.

Why not. But first we have to see what's happening with Revell and the new owners as it still is kind of "up in the air" right now, I haven't seen any statements on this matter yet.

As mentioned before the fix for these two kits are quite easy if you want more detail. I can just talk for myself, I like well detailed chassis just because I like the challenge in more detail...and even if I don't show the chassis often and some things that don't show much at all, I know it's done and I had fun doing it.

I have the feeling that sometimes models can be selected just because of the person who built them, when the builder is a known name, and not the models themselves. I don't know but if a model is concidered for publishing the model itself should be the main reason for it to be selected, who built it is not important as far as I'm concerned.

The thing with copyright dates on the kit boxes vary with manufacturers, some like Revell and Monogram started to print the dates on the boxes in the early 70's, maybe even earlier than that, and others like AMT and MPC don't have dates until the mid to late 70's, and Jo-Han had dates on some boxes in the early 90's, not so much before that.

Tom at Spotlight Hobbies posted about this. I say keep it coming.

Tim Ahlborn has a website with lots of useful information and pictures of Peterbilts. http://www.timstrucks.com/ If you browse around there you'll find answers to mostly everything you want to know.

I do it exactly the same way...read the tip in a magazine in the late 70's-early 80's.

Yes the '29 Roadster was first but the '30 Coupe has also been out on the market, how could I else have bought the ones I have. Because I do have two each of both the Roadster and the Coupe and they were bought at the same time from Model Roundup about a year and a half to two years ago, the copyright date on the kit boxes is 2015 on the '29 Roadster (kit# 85-4322) and 2016 on the '30 Coupe (kit# 85-4326). The tooling for these kits was appearently damaged after the first run...at least that's the official explanation to why they only were issued once...and with the recent events regarding the Hobbico bankruptcy and the selling of both Revell US and Revell AG to a German company and mostly everything is on hold, so who knows if they ever will come out again. Here is Tim Boyd's topic when the kit was just released.

Over here everything is imported and a regular Revell US model kit costs around 300-400 Swedish Kronor retail wich is around 35-46 US Dollar, and the Revell AG kits are about the same on the higher side, so there are not a big difference in prices...but they vary a lot. They will kill themselves in time if they price the kits too high, no one will buy them or buy fewer of them. On the other hand...many complains on the pricing of styrene kit when they are under 30 Dollars but buy a resin kit for 70-100 Dollar is fine...a little strange huh.

Yeah, that kit has been out once allready, back in 2016.

I noticed one thing when I looked in a book about old Peterbilts the other day and saw pictures of 359's with center point steering, on those pictures the trucks looks to have a narrower track at the front axle, the front wheels are closer together and tucked further in under the fenders with the center point steering setup than with regular steering setup...if the axle is the same width between the kinpins for the spindles the difference must be in the hubs...I don't know. As I said in my earlier post, your build of this tractor trailer combination is very very nice and I look forward to see the final result.

Nice.

The Big Boy locomotives are cool. I have seen the 4014 (the one they are restoring) at the Rail Gigants Museum at Pomona Fairgrounds in California a couple of times...it was some years ago now.

Nice build as allways KJ.

Well no one will know if you never tilt the cab.

Interesting, I'm going to follow this. I read on H.A.M.B. that the Cragar Super Trick bolt together racing wheel was introduced in 1970 and became popular 1971-72, and the Centerline Auto Drag riveted together wheel came some years later in the mid 70's.

The easiest way to be sure to find what you're looking for is to look for the first issue with the 1979 copyright date on the box lid, all were molded in orange. There are some AMT/ERTL issues of the DOH Charger with copyright dates 1997 and 2001 on the lids kit# 8597 molded in orange, and a couple without dates on the lid with kit# 38372 from 2005 and 2007 with different boxart I think none of these are the same as the 1979 issue. Round 2 reinstated the MPC brand, no copyright dates on the box lids on these DOH Charger kits and most of them are molded in white, the kit numbers are 706, 706/L12 and 754/12 for the "glo in the dark" Ghost of General Lee issue and 766/06 for the collectors tin version. There is an Airfix version of the kit also from 1982 kit# 06430 or 9 06430 Here is a 1979 issue on ebay right now. https://www.ebay.com/itm/MPC-General-Lee-1-25-1969-Dodge-Charger-The-Dukes-of-Hazzard/202302163101?epid=1705140827&hash=item2f1a26089d:g:Y1AAAOSwuWha3naP

It looks to be quite true to the original...so it's a good replica.

I know many who lower their trucks now in the US use front axles for car haulers wich have more drop than regular axles, and low profile tires.

The real Daytona NASCAR race cars had much lower stance than the road going counterparts, especially in front, plus they had wider tires, so all of the NASCAR Dodge and Plymouth race cars back then had the wheel arches opened up. So MPC probably tried to replicate that and the molding was missed when they revised the body back. Here is a street Daytona and the K & K Insurance NASCAR race car nose to nose, you see the race car is substantially lower and the top of the front wheel arch is way above the crest of the body feature line that runs along the side of the body, even the rear arch is opened up right up against the same feature line on the quarter panel, the rear arch is about an inch-inch and a half below it on the street car.

Well I sent the email to Revell US, it was packaged there and should have done the quality control there, as I said, Ed Sexton ansvered but I did never get a new undamaged cab. The cab is the same for the more recent K100 Aerodyne except for the roof so it will probably be easy to get a new one...maybe I should ask at Revell AG. Otherwise I thought of the quality control in general as most of the later kits has been done over there.

The truck originally had torsion bar suspension...a system that's a little hard to maintain so a air ride is most likely better and needs less maintenance...and I have read that the Peterbilt Air Leaf is a smoother ride than the Kenworth Air Glide 100 and that's why many use it on KW's.