Jump to content
Model Cars Magazine Forum

Foxer

Members
  • Posts

    9,490
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Foxer

  1. In addition to the great stance, I like that tire choice.
  2. There's no doubt that was from the 50's .. it has an ironing board!
  3. Those are great looking builds and that ladder I wouldn't hesitate to climb!!! ... amazing!
  4. BUG ALERT I see nothing myself. RodBurNeR's posts display no images OR the link. I always have the latest Firefox and I also tried switching between all the page "colors". This is something I haven't seen before. These comparisons are great to see, I build an AMT '65 Impala back when it first came out to model the one my friend had at the time. Nice to see it was so good, but I'm disappointed in Revell.
  5. Welcome, Paul. I like the sound of 1/24 .. I DO need a Chevy break now and again, so please post some of your builds!
  6. Foxer

    Green & Mean

    Cool story. Obviously. it kept this guy from terrorizing the streets to show the car off! Car looks good.. even more as a memory.
  7. I LIKE this green on it! And, the application is fantastic.. what a shine!
  8. wow .. so good to see one getting built! This looks grand .. the yellow and black really looks good! Probably been said many times before, but who would have thought back in the 60's we'd see a Detroit built hot rod!
  9. I've been working my way through the front PUZZLE, slowly gluing what I can to see how it all comes together. From your explanation, I see how part 71 goes now and what it does. I was not at the point I could see how the engine front mounted securely, but now I do. Is there that little clearance that moving the engine (not all together here) will hit the hood? I am planning to leave the original in just because it all looks so neat. I had a 283 small block waiting for mounting in a dragster on the bench and that looks like a very tight fit, though maybe not that bad once it is raised. It sure looks like a shallow fuel injection setup would be needed for sure in the end. So I just talked my out of the easiest way of all that you gave me. I'm seeing there will be clearance issues with the half shaft ends if I move the axle (part 74) up as much as I can, but I don't have a problem thinning the top of more than is realistic. I also see now switching sides with the spindles gets me about 2.18 inches before I even re-drill the axle! So that can be less than the 3" move I figured and still end up with maybe close to a 4" drop. So far I don't see a problem with switching sides other than maybe re-engineering the tie rod. The rear is an easy drop, as you say. I like your idea of doing it after the front is in place and just pushing it down to match. This is getting fun!
  10. Just a quick update to show where this is going. The 2-piece spindles were glued and the hole for the wheel shaft was plugged with a piece of sprue. A new hole will be drilled "higher" in the spindle giving a 3" drop. This required switching the left and right spindles to gain the most drop and is easily done. This should be enough and should significantly alter the stance. There's still a couple small pieces of sprue on one spindle, so ignore that. Now sitting in the shop with glue getting a good set before proceeding onward. The rear axle is almost a press fit and has plenty of mounting options to get the same 3" drop. Thanks to those responding. As usual, you got my brain a thinking!
  11. have a Bugatti-Duesenberg room too, but it's behind the furnace with old PC monitors running slide shows.
  12. Foxer

    Aston Martin DBS

    That is one beautiful automobile! And soon I can add it to my basement garage!
  13. That's interesting, Art. I'm a structural engineer, so I understand completely about the body. And after looking at some better Hudson photo's than in my mind, I see a chop might not look that great anyway considering the rear of the roof. Ya gotta admit, though, there's a lot of '49 Mercury in that body design.
  14. Bummer, think Wolfie has a cold..
  15. I did look at the front spindles originally and I could get about 1.5" from that at the max. I now see that I should be able reverse side with the spindles and get a full 3". Looking closer, this may be easier than I first thought. The wheel mounts to a shaft that goes through a hole in the flat spindle. This hole can easily be moved up and the half shaft mounts to the the inside end of this shaft. It would just be a slightly shallower angle and shorter on the half shaft but it would still be going to the center of the wheel if visible. Now to figure if 3" will be enough. And, stick to the old hot rod ways before getting exotic! Thanks for the suggestion, Romell
  16. Hope you have a Happy one old man.
  17. Dingo did a workbench post of a Cityliner build here that will give you a good idea of what this kit is like. go here
  18. I appreciate all the comments, even CheaterSlick's as that was my first thought If I can detach and pin the arms to swing up, the camber will change since there's no pivot at the wheel ends of the arms for the wheels to remain "vertical". With wider tires it will also get tight up in the fenders. It's going to be a tough one to measure, but maybe a cheap stand-in of sheet plastic will let me get an idea of clearances and how the wheels will look when rotated. I guess the tightness of the wheels in the fenders won't bother me too much considering how many tires on this forum loose their tops going down into the weeds! I'm also open to ideas that might not be realistic on a 1:1 with some suspension butchering. Since this is going to be somewhat a hot rod the easiest way would be to drop in a hemi and plumb a driveshaft to the Ford rear end! But, I like the unusual drive layout here and will have to at least destroy the front suspension before I go with a dropped '40 Ford axle in there.
  19. My thought is how much off the 49 Merc kits will fit this..! '53 Buick trim anyone? What's a chopped Hudson look like? Will '56 Packard tails fit? Coon tails anyone? fuzzy dice? Actually, the back of the Hudson is pretty much a 49-50 Merc, so the Packard tail lights may make it into the 300.
  20. This will be a long and windy road and maybe is a bit premature to start, but I have a question concerning how to lower the suspension and didn't want to hijack Junkman's topicon his build of this kit, the Heller Citroen 15 CV. This is MY Holy Grail and have wanted a model of this car since seeing one in an old movie long ago. It reminded me of the 32 Fords being sectioned and channeled into their full fenders .. a manufacture's hot rod! The body is so rounded and low for a car built starting in 1935! A lot has been discussed about the uniqueness of this car in Junkman's post, so check the link to it mentioned above. Anyway, here's shots of the suspension pieces and mounting off the instruction sheets for reference. I'd appreciate any thoughts and ideas on getting this into the weeds. I am planning on a wheel/tire change to something more modern and smaller diameter, but have no idea as to what at this time. As you can see, the suspension is independent with front wheel drive and is well detailed with some pretty fine parts. My first thought on the front was to cut the arms off the wishbone (part 23/37) and pin them back on allowing them to be swung up.This may kick the bottoms of the wheels out since the model has no horizontal pin at the wheels. Maybe it would help the stance. I need to mockup the rear axle to see if just shortening the shocks will raise the axle enough, but just from the instruction drawings, this seems feasible.
  21. This sounds really cool, Peter. I always loved the Y-Job and your version looks pretty nice. It would be interesting to see how everyone refines this body. Count me in, but don't stay up at night waiting for me to bolt the wheels on .. considering my record for completions. ... but I WILL have fun planning and starting the build!
  22. Since you still seem to be thinking of the original engine among your choices, here's a link to the mopar L-6. Seems Dodge used the Plymouth engine as the basis for their truck engines with some mods for the heavy duty use. This IS the engine in the '41 Plymouth kit. The diesel could be cool if it's as weird as you say.
  23. This Heller 15 CV is 1/24 scale. They also made a 1/43 11CV.
  24. That's a great looking engine ..and compartment! I'd love to see your turbo build too.
  25. Not only are the Traction Advants front wheel drive, remember these were first made in 1935, they were uni-body construction and sat far lower than anything else made in that era. I truly think these vehicles gave the '50's hot roders the idea to section and channel some fendered '32 Fords! The front suspension was independently sprung, with torsion bars and a wishbone arrangement. Most cars of this era were solid axles with leaf springs. This was a good handling car with it's advanced suspension, rigid uni-body (and read LIGHT here) and low center of gravity.
×
×
  • Create New...