Dave Van

The method of distribution with companies is pretty standard. My son works for a big pharmacy chain. They get a warehouse truck once a week. It is full of bins full of product the person in control thinks they need. Because of this he gets stuff that does not sell.....and stuff he needs three times as much as he gets. He has figured out how to manipulate it a little go get things he needs.....but 95% of product coming in is wharf CORP wants the store to have. Thx

Pretty sure HL operates on the system where a buyer for the company buys from the manufacture, and has the warehouse send X number of each kit to each store. I kinda doubt there is much ordering at the store level on model kits......or the kits are sitting in a back room wait to be put on a shelf. Major chains all operate this way today.

Nice neat clean work!!

Doing the art work needed to reproduce those decals would be multiple hundreds of dollars by someone who does it as a living. When I was doing art for decal companies those two would be close to $800. Then once you have art it's about $40 for a 8.5 x 11 sheet. You may find someone that wants those decals too and work out some type barter deal. Just a FYI......those 2 sheets are a lot of work. Good Luck!

These 'ALL NEW' CAD designed kits should not have the same issues that kits made from masters carved by hand from wood blocks!! I'm not down on Salvinos alone.....Any all new CAD designed kits should be BETTER ....not perfect. Moebius is all CAD desin and if you have built a Hudson they are very 'Tamiya' like.....more so than the Salvinos kits so far. I hope the continue to bring new and BETTER kits to market.

Adding detail and refining parts is what a modeler does. You did a great job. BUT this much work needed to get the kit together is wrong. Modern CAD design will alert the designer to issues before the firs 3D test print. I know......start my own model company, Salvinos has already told me that...I did and my models did not have this many issues. My 2 cents....and worth both pennies.

Intake is the only non stock part. Any intake from a small block Ford that fits would work.

Modeler vs assembler ...........

Atlantis has been around many years. They found and bought old tooling for plastic kits. Most recently they bought SOME of the tooling in storage from the Revell Monogram bankruptcy. Some tooling is very old, 1950's, and not up to todays standards. Other kits are very well done but you may not like the subject matter. I pretty much know what I am getting. Almost everything Atlantis has put out has been reviewed on Youtube so you can see what it is like. This old B-36 kit is a little crude on detail, went together fine and for the $12 I paid....just fine.

Love those Monogram 34 Fords........nice mods.....well done

I had to look it up.......250 in the 72 is correct!!!! Off hand I'd said 240/300 for sure. I can not imagine driving a big Torino around with a 250......my most hated Ford motor made!!!

I recall those kits.....was such a scale snob I passed on them........wish I had picked them up.

Nice neat and clean build!!!!! How did you fix the nose??? The cut at 2:00 on the wheel well up to A pillar area??? I think the stance is perfect for a super speedway car......nose DOWN!!

I have about 5 online sources I trust. Pay the money and get good stuff. My F-150 goes to the dealer for about everything. AND at times it's cheaper!!! I did pay $300 for a failed starter but when it fried I got a free one.

Either way thanks for posting!

That would be a great cab to have available. It boils down to price and quality of print.

Rust-Olium was the go to when I was a kid. Very high end paint for the average guys project. Dad always used it.....it lasted forever.

Rust-Oleum is a DIY paint for the guy or gal that 1 or 2 times a year use spray paint to cover something.......expectations are very low. THAT is what that paint is made for.

Being a NASCAR fan, AMC owner and having bought that AMC in Charlotte.....WOW!!!!!! Nice work

FIX??? Tamiya TS and Dupli-color.....................

If you apply Tamiya TS spray over all.....I'd stick with Tamiya and avoid interaction. Tamiya clear works well on decals.

OK...... The biggest factor is how the decals have been stored for long periods. A buddy of mine uses 1960's era decals all the time. But he has kept them in sealed bags in a cool dark closet. Heat, humidity and light will kill a decal. you may try: Apply a clear spray over decals before you try and apply them. Use just warm water with one drop of dish soap. Dip decal in water, place on damp paper towel and allow to 'cook' for 3-4 minutes. Good luck

Really nice clean build!!!! I am a bit bias as I own a 1/1 46 coupe myself~

One of my favorite Pony cars! Well done.

Yes,,,miced up years,,,,,, This............... MIXED with