Phildaupho

Very well done conversion. Great color choice.

Great concept. Definitely a supercar.

That is one fantastic looking Fairlane. Congratulations on your build.

Wonderful looking vintage racecar. Tuned out very well.

Thanks guy - I am going to glue a bunch of stuff together this morning and also get to work on sectioning and fitting the inner structure. My goal is to try to keep things totally traditional meaning flathead power, transverse springs, drum brakes etc.

You are doing a great job with this project. Looking forward to seeing it under glass.

It looks like a mid-1930's Mercedes to me. I found this photo of a Jo-Han kit that looks similar

I have always been attracted to the look of sectioned, channelled and chopped 39/40 Ford Convertibles. With very little other customization they have a very well proportioned and elegant look like the first generation Lincoln Continentals. The most famous 39/40 customs were built by Valley Customs a 39 for Gary Emory and a 40 for Ralph Jilek. Revell of course never released a ’39 Ford Convertible and Ford never made a 1940 Standard Convertible. I previously used the Deluxe front end from the ’40 Convertible kit to built a ’40 Deluxe Coupe from the Revell Standard kit so now the nose from that kit is being used with the convertible body which will give the look of ’39 Convertible. To complete this masquerade, I will incorporate headlights from the Revell ’37 Ford which are very similar to ’39 headlights. I have had a set back with painting the ’40 Coupe so restarted this project waiting for paint to dry you might say. The Coupe lent its chassis for the photo shoot. There were three ways customizers back in the day built sectioned and channelled 39/40 Fords which can also be done by car modellers. The first and most complex and difficult is to cut a longitudinal section out of the body near the belt line and then the entire body is channelled. The second simpler and easier method is to channel the body and rear fenders the height of the running boards and cut off the bottom of the body and rear fenders by that same amount. The third method is similar to the second but the rear fenders are not channelled rather the body is sunk lower on the fenders with them being attached higher up. In all three methods the hood and cowl have to be similarly sectioned and the cars retained their running boards with methods 2 and 3. With a possible fourth method, the cars were channelled and the rear fenders maybe or maybe not raised but only the hood and cowl were sectioned. I am going with a modified version of method three. For all my cuts I used the width of narrow Tamiya masking tape which including the width of the cuts work out to about 4 scale inches. My first cuts were the cowl side body ahead of the doors and below the belt line. I cut along the forward door line, took a section out of the top and moved the whole thing up. The hood was sectioned at the same height as the body sides. I then cut an equal amount off the bottom of the side body. With the hood taped to the front fenders the whole forward part of the body was glued onto its new location. The forward edge of the rear fenders were glued at the new bottom point of the body sides, at the bottom of the unsectioned rear pan below the trunk and along the body beside the trunk. The roof and windshield frame were also chopped the same amount. I plan to use wide white wall tires with Cadillac Sombrero hubcaps and the wheel wells will be radiused to the arc of the tires.

One of my favourite Ferraris although I have always lusted for Italeri 275 kits.

Very impressive

I like this very much. The Chrysler Corporation certainly had some very stylish cars in the early 1960's

Great color selection. Eventually I want to build and paint both BRG this Tamiya Miata and a Fujimi Lotus Elan for what I think would be an interesting juxtaposition comparison.

WOW Roberto that is quite the project. I like where this is heading and I will be following when your post likely gets moved the Big Boyz section.

Great to see your VW Van WIP. It made me pull out my Revell Samba Bus kit as I forgot it had opening doors all around. In the early 1970's I had a 65 which I will build a model of someday. Although it had a sunroof it was not a 23-window having 12 fewer windows so a lot of filling will be required. It also had a pass through to the cab area. I converted it into a sort of travel van with a hippie vibe. I first got a Hasegawa kit but consider the Revell kit superior in many ways.

The rolling chassis is now complete. I wanted there to be a contrast between the frame and running gear with the floor boards so I painted it with Testors Light Metallic Grey lacquer spray. I don’t remember it being so much like metal flake but I am getting used to. Molotow Chrome was brushed on to some of the suspension items. The wheels are painted Testors lacquer Phoenician Yellow. The headers proved to be a little troublesome aligning them to the exhaust system but in the end, I got them joined.

Thanks David Check this out https://www.rkmotors.com/vehicles/1483/1940-ford-deluxe-coupe I may eventually try an AMT Sedan on the Revell chassis The interior parts are highly recommended Thanks RRR Thanks Dennis - I am planning to use Champagne Gold for the exterior which I hope is a good choice When I installed the different front suspension I paid the most attention to getting the front wheels centered but as you can see in the profile photo, the rears seemed OK in the mock up so I am keeping my fingers crossed for the final assembly. It is too late now for me to change things as the rear suspension is fully glued and painted. I am hoping there will be some wiggle room. As you will soon see, I also used the yellow on the wheels and I am sure it would look excellent as an exterior color but as mentioned above I am going with Champagne Gold - a color I have wanted to try for a very long time. It is one of those discontinued great Testors metallic enamel paints containing lots of clear so extra clear coats are unnecessary.

The quality of parts from Replicas & Miniatures never fails to impress me. This Rik Hoving mastered tuck and roll interior includes the front seats, rear jump seats, side panels with separate arm rests and door handles as well as two back panels. The upholstery is white primer sealed with Mr. Hobby matt clear. The floor was sprayed with Testors lacquer fabric tan while the dash, steering wheel from the 32 3W, steering column are Testors lacquer Phoenician Yellow.

Thanks Roger - I will have to watch for that during final assembly.

I have always liked ’40 Fords especially the Deluxe Coupes. The old AMT kit has a very well rendered body but fairly simple chassis and interior. The Revell Coupe kit is pretty darn nice in all respects whether stock or street rod but it is not a Deluxe. I suppose it would be possible to use the AMT body with the Revell chassis and interior but I decided to swap the Deluxe fenders and hood from the Revell ’40 Ford Convertible. While I am at it, I figured I might as well give this model a completely new front end. The independent front suspension comes from the Revell Willys Street Rod kit. Initially I was going to install the LT-1 from the Beatnik Bandit II because I like the looks of it but it did not fit with new suspension and steering. That being the case, I am putting a Ford in a Ford by installing one the SBF engines from the Revell Deuce kits. I will be using a bunch of other non-kit supplied parts such as the excellent Replicas & Miniatures Rik Hoving mastered tuck & roll interior, steelie wheels, tires, caps and rings from the Revell 5-Window as well as the stock ’40 Ford steering wheel from that kit, the ribbed bumpers from the AMT ’40 Ford Sedan Delivery and a photo-etched grill from Model Car Garage. The front fender transplant was fairly straight forward. When trying to incorporate non-kit components like a completely different front suspension, wheels and tires and engine and transmission I had to completely glue together a fair amount of the model to make sure everything fits. The kit has a really well rendered contemporary coil-over ladder bar rear suspension but I did find it a little finnicky to glue together. The nice kit supplied non-chromed dropped I-beam axle will be saved for a future project. I have installed an electric fan on the radiator and shortened the driveshaft. There is no need to feel sorry for the ’40 Ford Convertible that gave up its nose section. It eventually will be resurrected with the Standard front end and evolve into a channelled, sectioned, chopped, nosed and decked traditional custom.

I always enjoy seeing GT40's and yours are a treat.

You are a lucky man to have seen Gilles win at Long Beach in 79. Up to the Spanish race he had won three in a row so I was hopeful of another victory but he did not have a great race at Jarama. I always regret not saying something to him when he walked by me after the race as I was waiting in line for the bus. I also see him race a couple of times during his Formula Atlantic period.

Thanks Hector Thanks again Roger Thanks Pat

Beautifully built Ferrari of my hero Gilles. I saw him race in the Spanish GP but in 1979

You definitely got the stance right. Nice job on the shocks.

Exceptionally nice build of an interesting subject.