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Erik Smith

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Everything posted by Erik Smith

  1. Turned out pretty cool. I like the nylon pull strap up front.
  2. Engine partially assembled and painted Alclad aluminum of some shade... Other side with exhaust manifold - it should line up with the kit’s stock exhaust system...I hope...
  3. There are some pretty simple modifications that need to be made to the kit drive shaft(s) to fit the resin transmission. The holes on the resin transmission need to be drilled out larger, the driveshaft needs to be severed in half, and, when putting the engine/transmission/front frame assembly onto the unibody frame, some trimming of the shafts is necessary.
  4. Very, very cool car. 2 liter v-12? Wow.
  5. Here is the engine - pretty decent casting overall. There is a little clean up and some small holes, but it looks cool. Last photo is kit engine with resin leaning in next to it.
  6. Well, this started when I had the Revell Rabbit sitting around, then saw Clearly Scale VW engine... Here is the kit and choosing wheels...steel wheels of course. Wanted something with a little less rubber on the sides, so probably going with the Tamiya Skyline wheels on some Aoshima baby tires...
  7. Nice! I like that color. Stihl? Got a chainsaw or line trimmer in the trunk?
  8. Snip...Fling!!! There goes 50 cents!
  9. I guess it just depends on how close you want. The kit you have looks ok, but as has been mentioned, there are better options. The valve cover from the ‘34 doesn’t have the correct shape (flat spot on end) although the “Thunderbird” script is closer. The Fairlane above - the “Thunderbird” letters cover too much of the valve cover leaving no room for the “406” sticker. I gave some of the valve covers away I had cost, but if I can find them, and you’re interested, I can send them up north!
  10. The MasterClub bolts are by far the best deal I have found. I used to get metal from Scale Hardware or T2M, and while they are nice, sometimes it’s hard to trim off the extra metal. With the MasterClub resin bolts, you can just snip and sand. Plus you get so many, when they inevitably fly from your tweezers, huh, grab another! They are very well cast, don’t have any flash, and I’m not exactly sure how they make them...
  11. Bizzarrini? Leno drove one on the show - and I thought “man, that is beautiful”. Plus, it has a cool 327...
  12. Here was my effort. Bill has confused my memory - the valve covers may be from the Mysterion - I had a few to compare, and these were the most accurate (note how long the “Thunderbird” lettering is on all variants). I think the rest is from the AMT Starliner? Might be some from Tbird kit too. The gold I used is too coarse - large flakes... I never worked out the “406” for the valve cover either. Also, early 406s didn’t have crossbolted mains but, from what I read, they toasted themselves and were crossbolted later on - replicated by adding a couple bolts across the lower part of block. No grease hands experience for me - I just did quite a bit of research for the model.
  13. ‘34 Ford? Best option is the AMT ‘60 Starliner engine with the valve covers from the silhouette...I think I have some of the parts if interested (I built a 406 for my Cannonball Run 1962 theme a few years ago - it never got finished but I have some of the components).
  14. Well, it’s $200 for the kit. That includes special formula base coat, chrome, and gloss coat plus a brush. I don’t apply Molotow until I really need to, because it does dull and rub off with handling.
  15. Oh, low quality video...I don’t know...just didn’t sell me instantly - maybe it’s just too cool to believe. I would love for this product to be an easy solution to an old problem. The results in the video look good. I have not, though, seen or been able to find anybody using this product for models or even brushing it on (outside Alsa’s promo video). You still need a gloss black base, and Alsa recommends drying time of 48 hours at 70 degrees for the base...then spray or brush and dry 48...so, yes, brush on is easier than AB, but Molotow you can just paint directly on. Also they list as kit only - any way to just buy, say, one ounce of the chrome? I look forward to you trying it out! Hopefully it works as advertised.
  16. Hard to find anyplace... Revell should repop this one!
  17. Has anybody actually purchased and tested this stuff? I watched the video and looked at the website earlier and it seemed it was similar to Alclad (gloss black base). The scene of the guy hand painting looks a little fishy...but would like to see actual application for small scale use.
  18. Yup. Molotow. Only downside is it takes a long time to fully cure - but so does Humbrol, so... You can buy Molotow pens or a refill bottle to spray with an airbrush.
  19. Try wrapping a couple layers of bare metal foil on the rim and see if you can get the wheel to fit better. Unless the gap is really big...then you probably need to add styrene strip...or different parts.
  20. Actually the Forest Service is under the Department of Agriculture. Bureau of Land Management, Fish and Wildlife Service, etc. are DOI.
  21. The Fujimi/Testors 356s are pretty common. If you wait and watch you can get one for $30. A few have sold in the last month or two for as little as $15-25. It’s actually a really cool, very detailed kit with, I believe, pistons and all in the engine and choice of wheels, etc. I’ve never actually constructed one though - sold the couple I had.
  22. Really great collection. Fiat is my fav...
  23. Totally agree. Both Tamiya and Aoshima are worlds better than ROG and kit prices are not that different. Looking at those photos of the Porsche, it appears to be a model from around 1980 - wavy with poor engraving.
  24. Cool. I’ve got the same kit on the bench. Seems to go together really well so far.
  25. Not exact, but At Ted’s
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