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Matt Bacon

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Everything posted by Matt Bacon

  1. Looks lovely.... a great colour combo and super-sharp. And I have to agree... the Tamiya LFA is probably the best car kit I have ever built (though I do have the 300SL in my stash, I haven't built it yet...) best, M.
  2. Flawless build and splendid photography.... just magnificent. best, M.
  3. If you've got Netflix, "Lupin" is an excellent Ocean's...-style French crime drama. It's not the same, but if you liked Leverage/Hustle, Lupin is in the same space... best, M.
  4. I want one of these: if I have to, 1/24, but the real thing would be better! best, M.
  5. Euro-centric conservatism? Not sure it's _particularly_ conservative to release the first new-tool E-Types, Landy, 1970s 911s or proper Mini in 30 years (or if it is, no one else seems to have thought of it). Not to mention up to date mainstream Porsche, Mercedes or McLaren sports cars. I suspect the first Taycan kit will come from Revell next year. And until it does, the 1/48 Blackbird will keep me busy... best, M.
  6. If you're REALLY interested, this is an excellent large format, highly illustrated book: https://www.amazon.com/dp/3836563487/ best, M.
  7. Or the one in Repo Man, or in Ronin… it has the Macguffin in… best, M.
  8. Replicas and Miniatures of Maryland does Dunlop steel wheels as well, if you are happy to go through the hoops to order from them… best, M.
  9. You had to buy a special bonnet (hood) with a dish and mounting point. The “normal” fitting for a pick-up style hard or soft top is in the bed on the rear cab bulkhead. On a station wagon it’s usually the rear door, but that puts a lot of strain on the door hinges (steel wheel with tyre is HEAVY), so many have it there but with a substantial carry brace. The bonnet mounting does limit visibility, and you do NOT want to be working in the engine bay with the wheel still above you on the open hood! The one place you’ll never find it is on the cab roof. Serious Army combat softskins had frames to mount weaponry and usually carry a spare wheel on each side, vertically mounted behind the driver and passenger. best, M.
  10. “Actually, any pastel color looks good on it.” I guess now we know where Nissan got their colour choices for the Figaro from! best, M.
  11. Firefly Buffy The West Wing Blackadder (seasons 2,3 and especially 4) Leverage Hustle Coupling (how you get completely logically to the show ending punch line: “I’m holding the keys to paradise in my hand and I’ve got one too many legs”) Lupin Drive to survive Phineas and Ferb Black Books The Avengers best, M.
  12. The latest Zumbrunn book (“Lost Beauties”) has a photoshoot of the Marilyn Monroe 56 TBird, which is also pink, though a more restrained lipstick pink rather than this amped up Barbie version. The MM car actually looks remarkably tasteful… best, M.
  13. Hi... I'm not sure Harry ever did build one, but John Teresi's awesome build is here: best, M.
  14. Well, my policy of setting the price I'm prepared to offer on the 'bay and bidding over and over on different auctions finally paid off. I've been after one of these for a long time, and finally got it for a sensible (to my mind) price: That just about does it for the Fujimi Enthusiast kits that I've been chasing. Now I just need to build them... best, M.
  15. Absolutely beautiful… a really lovely job. Great work matching your friends car, and your photography really does it justice. best, M.
  16. Republic RF-84F Thunderflash, reconnaissance version of the F-84F Thunderstreak, not to be confused (except by Congress money-men) with the earlier F-84 Thunderjet… best, M.
  17. That looks absolutely stunning. Brilliant build of a very challenging kit, and stellar photography as well. Apologies if I missed the WIP, but any tips you have for building one, getting that kind of result and retaining your sanity would be much appreciated by the rest of us with one in the stash! Well done! best, M.
  18. I think you've made an excellent job of those Esci kits -- they look as goodd as they are ever going to without major surgery, and the Italeri is much better. Not wanting to hijack your thread, but for the sake of comparison, this is the Gunze: And, well... we all know whose "model" this is... best, M.
  19. If you've used Tamiya primer and Tamiya TS acrylic spray paint, then really you want to be using Tamiya TS-13 clear over the top. Many paint ranges will mix and match, but you can't guarantee it, and it's so much easier just to use compatible paints from the off. It also makes a big difference how old your cans are -- how long have you had the "Wet Look Clear? If you apply the paint and clear coat right, there's really no need to sand primer, base coat and clear through all of those finer and finer grits... https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234956647-matts-tips-for-painting-cars/ best, M.
  20. I've completely switched to Stynylrez for Zero 2K finishes. I think it's too rough for Tamiya rattle-cans, which I use Tamiya Fine Surface for, but for Zero, where the base coat is meant to be matt anyway, it's fine. It's a great barrier between coloured plastic and a 2K system top coat, and the colour choice is wide. I just flush with lots of water, back flush and use a final "universal" (IPA, water and a bit of detergent) airbrush cleaner for clean up. The good thing is that if at any point you think your airbrush isn't clean enough, an ultrasonic cleaning bath and some "floor wax" or general household cleaner ("LAs Totally Awesome Cleaner") will take Stynylrez off completely... best, M.
  21. I think pretty much every paint booth I’ve ever seen has that “problem”, including mine. It’s never caused me issues. I have a big plastic box upside down on a nearby table that the model goes under immediately it’s painted… best, M.
  22. Sounds like you already have it built, but if you can take it apart, then get some silicone “Plastic Parts Grease” from a bike shop and use that everywhere. It needs to be the specific stuff, because other lubricant may weaken the kit parts and cause them to break. best, M.
  23. Toys.... yup: Not serious, clearly .... There's no glue and no filler in this model, just a few paint effects. The engineering and design quality is extraordinary. There are a few nit-picky inaccuracies in the plumbing and wiring of the engine, but do not underestimate the care the people who designed and tooled this have for the original. Meng's entire range speaks to a bunch of people with a deep interest in the hobby and a passion for their subjects, with some limits on their access to prototypes, but huge enthusiasm for new ways of building kits. Their 1/72 F-106, 1/48 P-51, 1/35 Merkavas, 1/32 Fokker Dr/1 and Toon kits just demonstrate an alternative way of thinking in modern times that is the spiritual successor of the Revell and Monogram of the late 60s- early 70s. Apologies if this ain't a popular view, but it's the way I see it. best, M.
  24. Looking great. I shall follow closely for tips to use when I do mine. Given that the back end doesn’t open, I’m sure the engine will be absolutely fine! best, M.
  25. Anyone know if it’s available through Zinio for an iPad, like FSM? I’ll never find a paper copy over here, but I’m happy to buy it electronically if I can. (I’ve tried searching Zinio for FineScale and Restomods, but all I get is the regular monthly mag, and nothing for Restomod. best, M.
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