Exotics_Builder

Guess the wallet is safe again

Revell has one person who supports all the CS and they don't have a stash of parts in inventory to satisfy, either. When we visited their Elk Grove site a few years back for IHOBBY interview, they showed us an area where kits are stored and they basically open the kit to pick the parts. I have never had a problem with getting a missing or damaged part. Sometimes the turnaround is less than a week and sometimes much longer.

Flickr Album of the Show

Suppose he means independent?

Ad the 64 looks to be a Sport Coupe and the 65 a post sedan. The roof lines are different.

Got those in my stash as I was lucky enough to get when issued. Have a lot of what I want already. What I would like to get is the AMT Open Road Mini Motor Home.

Absolutely. Just need to be careful not to bend it accidentally.

Are you painting the PE? If just attaching to a model, and keeping it metal, no primer is needed but I always clean with rubbing alcohol or lacquer thinner. What Bill said is correct, but you would only do self-etching on metal. I use it on stripped diecasts before repainting.

https://hlj.com/product/MENSPS-047 Supposedly 1/24 but box art says 1/35 and they produce in both scales. But the product number is correct for the 1/24

True. The 250 GT Lusso was the last 250 variant I recollect and that came out at the end of last year. They do get resupply out to vendors from time to time, though

I know, but the room I chose is about 50% larger than her craft room.

Until the wife claims it!

So do I

But still need to go through US evaluation. So there will be a several month lag for availability here.

My mantra is build what interests you and build it how you would like to. But try to learn something with each build. I will build curbside (usually) if the model comes that way and I am interested in the topic. Otherwise, I build to make it look as realistic as I can, which includes engine bay and interior detail, but almost always not opening doors or trunk. I have taken the occasional step to make a curbside into a full detail, but the topic was very interesting at the time and I wanted to do it that way. It does take a lot of work though. In 1994 I started with a Fujimi curbside and after kitbashing and 200 hours it became this.

We got this

It looks pretty good. I have it packed away now as I am getting ready to move back to the Pacific Northwest. I did a cursory look at it and proportions seem in line. The body is typically thick as other MFH offerings, so not even thinking of opening the doors. Body lines also will need to be deepened (again not unusual for MFH). I need to do a little research on the rear end as there are variations in Lusso's and I am not sure where this fits. Some Lusso's have a bit of spoiler and some don't. Given there cost and complexity, I reserve getting a MFH only if the topic is REALLY interesting and I believe I will REALLY build it. As I have styrene 250 GTO's, 250 SWB, 250 TR Pontoon, 275 GTB and GTS, Cobras (including HRM Daytona Coupe), I have avoided those. I do have the 156 Sharknose (1/20), 512 BB LM and 250 TR/61 as well as the Lusso. I will look at it more after I move in and get settled. So, not likely until early 2018. I did also hear that HRM is NOT going to do the Lusso as MFH released it. It is a shame, since Harold's version would likely have been more interesting.

Just back in January I got the 250 GT Lusso kit.

We're trying to get the keys to the new house right now. And then move 2000 miles. All the stuff is boxed up. The idea is in my head at the moment. I have the SVR 458 transkit from C models and was thinking of that as a start. The Liberty Walk 458 is a little too outre for what I would like to do.

Ace, As you have already seen, it is a twin turbo setup with belt driven supercharger. It is really a neat setup. I was thinking of adapting one to a 458 tuner. But, the "shop" is closed until after we have moved into the new house and get settled.

Yep. And the engine is a bit simplified, but good representation.

Koenig TestaRossa circa late 80's

I basically use a 1K. 2K is too toxic for my taste and, as mentioned above, can make a model look like dipped in syrup. Even allowing for scale effect on finishes, a good 1K finish makes a model look more realistic.