Cool Hand

Thanks Jeremy, glad to know you are taking interest in the build.

Very impressive work for your first build, looks like you done the research and jumped straight in. Keep at it.

Progressing along very well, some good paint detail on the chassis plate.

Done well to avoid a mishap with the interior, looks amazing all detailed up now. Unfortunate having some drama's with the bumpers, as David mentioned no doubt you will sort it out.

So had a day of thinking Used some acetate cut to same size as wheel tub template and used that to get the first part of a shape template. Placed against the frame in the wheel arch. And roughly marked the shape Cut out the acetate and transferred to cardboard and trimmed small amounts at a time until it was a neat fit. Transferred that to the wheel tub, but allowed a couple mm extra and started shaping. Decided to split the tub from the blank, so that the tub would line up with the wheel arch. Spot glued at the wheel arch Needed to fill in the gap. Slid some paper behind and traced out the shape and transferred to styrene. Removed and filled the joins with with super glue. Not mentioned earlier in this task, the centre hole was enlarge to help get the position of the tub in the right place. Placed back in the body and traced the frame where possible. Next update, final shaping up to the frame then fitting and attaching the tubs to the floor plate.

Thanks Leslie, appreciate you following the build. Thanks Jim, the idea for the socket technique was inspired by Laflamme aka AmericanMuscleFan.

Done yesterday, but only got round to posting today. Having to work on the under side of the Mustang was challenging with just sitting it on the roof whilst trying to do stuff. But found a solution https://youtu.be/1g4lh2VdGdY. Grab a few parts tree's. Worked out a rough size and came up with this.

Thats a radical looking truck, reminds me of a wheel stander. Good work on the scratch built chassis, bed and cover.

Looks the part from where im sitting Ismo. You done a very good job replicating features of the 1:1, that metallic black paint would look excellent in direct sunlight. And yes I think you captured the spirit of the inspiration car for sure and built it very quick. Glad the pics were helpful. Done well mate.

Looks awesome Guy. Going to look even better with all the chrome components and trim work.

Decided to have a go and get the wheel tubs done, then build all the panels around them. Learnt from Francis Laflamme aka AmericanMuscleFan's build topic that a socket is a good way of forming the tubs, Found one thats a couple mm bigger than the wheels. Set the compass to the width of the socket. And transferred to some .5mm styrene sheet. Wrapped some tape around the socket to work out a length, which is how much of the tub that wraps around the wheel. Transfer that to the styrene. After cutting, wrap the piece around the socket. Place some cable ties or rubber bands around to secure it. Dont over tighten needs to be removable. Using some form of heat, warm up the socket and styrene. After heating, place under cold water and cool it down. Remove the ties and repeat. First attempt at this technique, over heated the styrene. So they deformed and turned out rough. But thats fine, half will be cut of and the rest can be sanded smooth To make the blanks and enclose one end, measure the diameter of the socket. (27mm) These will be made from 1.5mm styrene. Set the compass to 13.5mm. Rule a line on the sheet. Mark two blanks. Cut out and shape. Used a temporary set up to glue pieces together. Clamped the tub and positioned the blank. Super glue the join where the pieces meet. Allow to dry or use accelerator. Use another clamp to help hold the piece. Push the tub in to meet the blank and glue where they join. Repeat on the other side. Flip over and fully glue the join. Cleaned up glue joins with file and sanding stick, also sanded the deformed areas tidying it up a bit. Find the compass centre and drill a pilot hole. Drill out pilot hole 2mm bigger than rear axle diameter. Thats the basic wheel tub, next will be shaping them to fit in the body. Also whilst sussing out a few things, marked in the position of the trans tunnel. .

Thanks Vince,. Not as highly skilled as others who inspire. So one must make do with the skills they have.

Very clean build, nice work on the detailing. Slick paint job, well done.

Excellent job on all the paint work and very clean assembly. I have built an Aoshima pre-painted LP700-4, and that fell together by itself, great quality kits even with the opening features.

Started working on the back half, planning and making some templates. Yellow masking tape over the layout, easy to see through and make templates. Measured from the floor to the suspension plate. Roughed out a design for a panel. And transferred to card. Cut out and test fitting. Another card template, for centre panel Just wanted to show where things are at the moment.

More work on the fire wall. Measured from the cowl down to the top of what was the foot well. Transferred the measurement onto the previously made template. Will be using this brake booster, from a Revell 70 Buick GSX kit. And double checked the fit to the template. Cut that section of, as it will be the top half of the fire wall. Got another measurement from the lower part of the frame to top of the floor. This needed to be removed from the bottom of the lower half of the template, but went for 5mm instead of 7mm just incase. Because this piece is at an angle. Placed the two halves in the body for a rough test. Lower piece just incase still wasnt enough. Ended up with a 2mm gap, so had to adjust the template. Taped all 3 pieces back together. Added the 2mm a re cut the bottom. Made a slight fold and test fit Found the centre of the lower edge. Measured a rough distance across the bell housing and gear box,went for 23mm. Set the circle cutter and cut. Test fit again. Transfer to fire wall. Make a back up template of the whole fire wall, incase things go wrong Cut down the centre line, added another 2mm to the bottom half piece to allow for the thickness of the 2mm styrene and the edge will need to be chamfered/angled. Lower half before chamfering the edge. Chamfered edge. Check the angle of the chamfer. Spot glue in position. And chamfer top edge. Spot glue top half in postion. Test fit. Fully glued the join. Trans tunnel opening on template was a guide, so using sand drum removed a bit at a time and test until satisfied with the opening. Cleaned up and test fit. A bit more work on the fire wall to be done later but thats it for now, moving on the the back half of the interior and wheel tubs etc

No worries Bruce, glad you can find some of it useful.

Clean looking interior there Martin, good selection with the colour combo.

Seen this build in the other mags contest cars 2019 , and thought it looked very well built and super detailed from that one photo. Then you posted it on the forum, was totally blown away by how much work you did put into all the detail work. Impressive skill and craftsmanship. As mentioned, its one the best 1/25 builds ive ever seen on a forum, scale accurate and very realistic.

Tidy looking build Ray, like the silver, gold and chrome combo. Goes to show that with a little bit of effort a Snap kit can build up and look just as good as full glue kit

Still working away on the interior piece by piece. Removed more of rear side panels. And removed the foot wells. Used a small photo etch saw. After they were removed, was able to make a start on the fire wall. Removed the molded in engine bay and the fire wall was part of that. So had to make a new on from scratch. Dont have a contour gauge, so had to make a cardboard template. Taped some cardboard against the edge of the work board. Placed the body against the edge over the cardboard and trace the lower section of the inner body. This is the bottom part of the template. Cut and fit up to the body. Measure distance from template to under the cowl vent. Trace the bottom half of the template and add measurement on top of that. Use some solder to form the shape of the inner sides of the body. And mark the lower edge of the rocker on the solder. Transfer to the template. That is the rough shape for the template. Further adjustments are needed by trimming each side until it fits neatly. Transferred to 2mm styrene sheet, cut out and shape until fit up is neat. More work to follow on the fire wall.

Thanks for keeping up with the build and commenting Anton, appreciate it. Always good to take lots of pics with this type of build as they can be used for future reference on similar types of heavily modified projects. And sharing the process is a way of giving back, from all the techniques learned from others. And hope some can find it helpful. Thank you Martin, interior is going to be a challenge to get it all done, piece by piece. No hair dryers for this build mate LOL! Inspiration car provided an idea for the induction. Its aluminium wire close to 1mm purchased from a craft store, beading wire. But you can get same thing at hardware store, tie wire or picture hanging wire. And used some 1.2mm styrene rod for the pins through the shocks Cut with side cutters and filed the ends.

Good to see you back at the work bench. Always enjoy seeing your build threads.

Some precise work re-scribing the seat detail. Agree with Martin you producing some clean work. The inspiration car sure does look bad ass.

Progressing well mate, had a bit of trouble at first seeing the new skirts being in black. Keep at it.