Brutalform

Or maybe stretch the AMT Catalina chassis by adding some square stock in the middle of the chassis somewhere, until the wheels are centered in the wheel wells.

Couple of pics of the Lee Smith car from the auction. I’m sure it was restored it to the most original state, including the interior.

So true! And I can name at least 20 other songs, maybe more, that are way over played.

Most favorite part would be choosing the wheel and tire combinations, while my least favorite is foiling. I still hold my breath when I’m trimming the foil with the scalpel. Foiling will always be my least favorite thing.

I haven’t seen any available. Have you considered painting instead? I saw a build Clay Kemp did on a Mopar, where he used the Tamiya acrylic paints. First he applied Desert Sand, then he brushed in some Bronze, to replicate the actual grain part, and finished it all off with Clear Orange. I tried his technique in a build and it came out pretty convincing. I even applied it on the wood steering wheel, and it looked amazing. You could try practicing on an old interior panel or dash maybe?

And.. there are some companies that have the market pretty much covered. When I see a commercial from Pepto Bismol, with some sexy guy singing about upset stomach and diarrhea. I don’t know about anyone else, but I’m pretty sure I don’t need to be reminded what to buy if I have these ailments. Pretty much a no brainer.

Like people are going to get right in the phone and cancel their insurance after viewing your commercial? Those companies take advantage of younger people is all I can figure. My policy might be a few dollars more, but when you figure in how much coverage you have, where you wouldn’t have to take out of pocket, because you don’t have adequate insurance, limited tort, etc, where are the savings? These companies are selling just enough insurance so you will be “legal” to drive.

If I hear that Liberty Liberty Liberty Liberty again I think I’ll throw up. I literally switch TV stations when it comes on. Not to mention, it only took a month of manually transferring it to my JUNK box in my yahoo mail. Seems they are figuring a way to by pass the sensors in mail now.

I get the fact ads help pay the bills..... but, advertising is way out of control in this country. There are items I will refuse to buy just because their TV ads are so annoying. Just my two cents.

After any work, like removing sink marks, removing flash, and getting everything corrected, I always wash the parts in a bit of Dawn and warm water with a toothbrush to get it ready for primer. Filler is not always needed. Some kits might only need minimal cleanup, but others may need some additional body work. For me, after priming, is a perfect time to check my work. And when it’s wet, this allows me to see if the body looks smooth enough, or if it needs additional attention. Anything not corrected in the early stages, will not be hidden by paint.

Yes. It’s the Lindberg Color Me Gone.

Very nice representation of a 60s Super Stocker. One of my favorite subjects to build.

Never thought about the song when I built this 64.

If only I had better depth perception.

My rubber gloves are being used for a lot more now, than just painting models.

Haha. And now you have to wash your hands for twenty seconds BEFORE you pick yourself a winner.

That’s a fantastic 55 build right there, Danny. Very nice detail work. What did you use to fasten the braided line to the moly tubing? Is that electrical tape?

What I thought was funny, was when no one was looking at the dinner table, and Dundee punches him out.

This can be done a few ways, but the best imo, is using Vallejo Air acrylic paint. The good thing about it is, if you mess up, you can just wash it off, and start over, as the paint is water based. After it has dried, you can use a Tamiya swab, or tooth pick, to remove paint from the high points to add detail. The only thing is though, I’d recommend giving your work a mist of dull cote, or flat clear, to seal it, as the acrylic paint will want to easily get scratched, or marred, and try to flake off. You can do this same technique with a flat black spray paint, but you would need to wipe the areas you want exposed before the paint dries. I’ve also used Tamiya Panel Line Accent, which is an enamel base. This stuff will flow very well with capillary action. You might want to do a few applications using this technique though. The superbee parts are done with Vallejo paint, and the thunderbolt items are done with panel line accent.

Mark Blum from Crocodile Dundee and Desperately Seeking Susan sadly passed away due to complications of COVID19.

Fantastic work as usual. I especially like the way you have flat spots on the tires. Looks so much more real in a sitting position. I never thought of doing that.

CA glue does get old and looses its bonding properties. Like snake said, at least it’s not too expensive. I think they should sell it in even smaller tubes.

Looks great. BMF is the last thing after all of the painting, and clearing, polishing, etc. are performed. I used to use Qtips for burnishing, but now I use the pointed swabs that Tamiya makes. Easier to get into crevices, and no fuzzy fibers. The residue is normal. I avoid using a Qtip for this as well, as it seems to add fuzz, and could possibly scratch some clears. What I do is, take a small piece of soft flannel, and add a drop of Goo Gone, to remove the residue. I never encountered any problems doing it this way yet.

They were definitely cool. I searched on eBay, online, and just about every soap manufacturer I could think of. I’d love to find a couple of these old toys.