tmathew1us

wonderful work on the car that opened the floodgates for Porsche's dominance at Le Mans.

Great job! You are the king of the 70s barges!

Thanks so much for the info, Bill,, Dale and David. So if I am understanding this right, as the compressor gets hotter (ie. the longer it runs), the more likely it is to pass hot air which holds moisture to the airbrush? I wonder if giving the compressor a chance to cool off, say not going more than 15 min at a time, would help? I will add in a trap closer to the airbrush. Is there any point to having 2 traps, the one attached to the compressor as I have it set up, and another to the airbrush? or is that too much for the compressor to push air through?

A couple things to watch out for using these acrylics - I always strain the paint through panty hose first. As they are cheap paints, sometimes they have clumps, and I have had small clumps obstruct my airbrush - I usually thin them with windshield washer fluid - another key, as mentioned, is to spray in very light coats. This medium is very tricky, though, in that it sprays very thin and can easily run. After airbrushing, I immediately put the body in front of a fan to try to get the liquid carrier and washer fluid to evaporate and leave the paint. As its comes out as a very thin coat, I haven;t had much luck polishing it, I usually clearcoat it first. Alternatively, you can sand out imperfections with wet sanding very easily, and then respray.

I have a compressor, regulator with moisture trap, and Iwata dual action airbrush. I usually spray at around 25-35 psi. I use about a 6 foot hose. After about a half hour or more of airbrushing , I often get spurts of water coming out of the airbrush, which is ruining my finishes. This appears to be pure water, and I typically spray enamel or 2 part clear. I have checked and emptied the moisture trap with the release valve, and this still often happens. I recently changed to a new regulator/moisture trap, sealed with teflon. Still with the same problem Any suggestions?

I went on the website Wayne suggested for the decals, so that comes out to $37 for the decals alone.

I will be watching this with great interest, Wayne. $37.10 shipped from Germany is high, but not outrageous. We have seen some real ringers as far as completed kits of this model, so I have high hopes for your project.

Great work, especially on the decals. Do you own an ALPS printer or do you have access to one?

Here is the body (image from their facebook page) This looks beautiful, so glad to see some more models of Group B monsters coming out. Beemax had been teasing a Lancia Delta S4 for a while, too. Can't wait for this to be released!!

Nice work Matt! This looks like a very complex and time-consuming build. I always enjoy seeing your work.

Was this the one that the owner of Essex Wire supposedly "took home" when the company went under? I seem to remember this chassis has a storied past...

I think shortly after this came out, a different model car magazine voted it one of the best kits ever produced. I remember being so excited to use a Hobby Lobby coupon to get 40% off that I went back the next day an bought another one. That was in 2001. Both are still in the stashpile. Everyone raves about the quality of this kit.

Nice job, usually one see the "Ueno Clinic" black '95 LM winner.

Great job on this, one of the cleanest F1 designs. Would love to see this with its clothes on as well. Jason, this is an excellent kit, I just finished it a few months ago. It was also my first 1/20 F1. (I think this car is occasionally referred to as a Ferrari 640). Beware the rear suspension, quite delicate but looks accurate. Mark has obviously put in a tremendous amount of time with the superdetailing, but this Tamiya kit builds up very nicely box-stock as well.

Very cool ideas, and look good. The slab sides of black car lend themselves to a convertible. Great work!!

this could be super cool!! will be watching

Would love to see a tutorial or WIP on how these are done. Such imagination, so fun to look at the details

I love the jet exhaust residue on the rear fenders. Beautiful work, with just the right amount of weathering. Very nicely done!!!

This is both hilarious and very well executed. Nice job!!

Be careful not to blow dust onto the paint job. My trick is to let bodies dry in a cupboard, or at least tip a large box on its side and place the body in the box to dry, so its covered on 3 sides at least.

Masking came out great! What is the white stuff you are using under the Tamiya tape?

Beautiful work so far. Very nice work on the carbon fibre - too bad so much of it will be hidden by the body! Nice to see a Carrera GT in a color other than silver, too!

coming out very nicely! Fair warning - be very careful withe the A-pillars on a countach this big. I just built a 1:24, and Fujimi smartly included a strut in in the middle of the windshield that I clipped off only at the very end. With all the handling that will be necessary, it may not be a bad idea to use a cardboard insert taped in to provide support while you are building. Best wishes, looking forward to see how this turns out.

Looks great!! Is this the same kit as the Rothmans 956 but with different decals? The NewMan Porsche 956 is one of only a handful of the chassis car to win Le Mans multiple times - Ford GT gulf chassis 1075 and I think a Peugeot 905? any others people know about?

This project is coming along just great! Here is a picture of my brother and I washing our family truckster, a diesel Buick Electra. Man, that car was a piece of junk! My brother had to drive it in high school, and let's just say it wasn't exactly enticing to the ladies. Luckily it died before I could inherit it.