Greg Wann

OK, I am making a list. Mailing addresses would be nice to have.

http://smcbofphx.proboards.com/thread/1467/mclaren-m8b-tires Hi David, Here is a link to some tires I made some time ago. You should find plenty of casting help on this forum. So anyway, You will need to imagine when you are looking at the right hand mold half that the master tires are set on these posts that are sticking up and that when the mold was first made the part on the right was all clay. I'm not very good at keeping up with photos to document the progress of a project. So what happens is the tires are very nicely made but can be a bear to remove from the mold. Make certain that your mold release is compatible with your silicone. If your mold release contains silicone then it might be acting as a primer to actually cause the two parts to stick together. So, if you are new to casting or are switching products be aware of such problems. I started using Smooth-On products. I can just go 15 minutes from my work at ASU in Tempe and pick up product fresh off the shelf, that is very handy. I switched to using their mold star 30 silicone and was having tons of problems! I switched to using MANN 200 mold release. The temperature of your room is very important, 76 is a pretty good temperature. If your silicone is stored in a room to warm and you pour in the same room your mixed silicone could start curing before you get it in your mold box. I pressure cast and I have a vacuum chamber and pump to de air silicone and resin. Humidity can be a real problem too, resin can draw in unwanted moisture. If you mix and pour resin and it foams up, you have a real moisture problem. Resin kicks and cures at around 160 degrees.

You Schnur did a good job, Mike. You are welcome, Dwayne.

I can tell you all that Dwayne might be slow at master making but his talent is very, very good and accurate. Mike Schnur was very happy with the Crown Vic project that we will get into silicone molds so that resin cast copies can be produced for your model building pleasure. Mike will be making the vacuum form window sets for these kits.

Nice work, Mike. That will certainly help with casting. Looks great.

http://www.koalaproducts.net/polish.htm I use this product now. It is not cheap though. It is a very nice product. When I first got back into modeling in 2005, I bought a bottle of Bare Metal Foil plastic polish. Once I ran out, I found out it was no longer available. I have spent a lot of money on plastic polishing liquids. Koala is the only thing I have found that is close. While this product is very thin like water and appears to have no grit it does a nice job, great on polishing paint too. https://www.bare-metal.com/model-building-molding-specialty-items.html WOW, I just went to their site and see it is in stock and available! I'm just going to get a bottle to see if it is still the good stuff it was back then. Only $4.50 a bottle. And if you happen to do resin casting their $5.00 price for a pound of Klean Klay is good too.

http://resinmodelcasting.proboards.com/thread/136/1988-1991-ford-crown-victoria I got this in the mail from Dwayne today. It looks pretty nice to me. I will take it to Mike Schnur for a inspection and to create a buck so that a set of vacuum form windows can be made. Here is a link to where the mold making process will happen.

Very nice. I like them both! I do like a great Buick.

https://www.createforless.com/Sulky-KK-2000-Temporary-Spray-Adhesive-3.6-fl-oz/pid32313.aspx?utm_source=bingProdAds&utm_medium=cse&CAWELAID=530001980000062706&catargetid=530001980000165791&cadevice=c There is a product called KK2000. It is a temporary spray adhesive. It is a alcohol based product that cleans up quickly. It is used for quilting and found in some fabric shops like Joanns. Do a search for locating this item near you. It is not cheap either. This product might be useful to temporarily hold model parts together. Ebay is a good place to find it.

That is really nice. It would make a nice resin cast master.

Hi Shawn, Great job. That is very cool. My only suggestion is to be able to make the tires appear to be flat. I really hope someone here knows how to do that. That is a detail part I could resin cast if I had a good master part.

http://suncityaz.org/alphabetical-listing-clubs/ You should all just move to Sun City, AZ. The weather is always reasonable. OK, the summers are too hot for my liking. There are amazing cool things to do here. I'm certain you would all like the metal working and woodworking shops. There are lots of nice vintage cars around my neighborhood too. You would think that you all died and were in heaven. There are some ranch properties around me for sale. Come on out and give it a visit. You should not ever be bored here. There are a couple of great model car clubs too and model car build sessions on some Saturdays are a great event too. The Cactus Car Club puts on the Desert Scale Classic model show and contest and gets magazine coverage as well. I am known around here as the Master Caster.

Nice work, Dwayne. With the door panels now separate the interior will be easier to cast. The other advantage is that the builder will have an easier time doing the detail work on them. The finer detail on the part can be a real killer on any mold. A grille or a dash or a wheel can have intricate detail. If the silicone detail comes out of the mold that could be trapped in detail a new mold will need to be made. Resin can get up to 160 degrees as it is curing. That can be really hot for a mold with thin walls that separate shapes that will form the parts. I made some molds for a guy and is already having silicone pulling out and resin sticking to the mold. The mold is already ruined. I made some copies and sent them and the mold to him to try for himself. I use SMOOTH - ON Mold Star 30 and Mann 200 mold release. I am good at what I do. Once I have the project in hand I will take it to Mike Schnur. He and I will create bucks so the vacuum form windows can be created and added to the kit. Mike is very good at little details and knows names of body panels I have never heard of.

http://smcbofphx.proboards.com/ 2 piece. The above link is to a forum I have been posting projects on for many years. Scroll to the bottom to the resin casting thread. Not much happens on this forum anymore but it gets nearly 100 visits in each 24 hour period. The only thing I can think that is of any interest is my casting work. Page six are my earliest posts. Greg

The Green convertible above has the optional N-25 factory custom bumper where the square exhaust tips protrude through it. While they looked really cool, they had a tendency to melt tail light housings. The MCG photo etch set will really make this build POP! It's nice that the emblems can be painted with the red paint as the real car is. My first car was 72 GS. http://smcbofphx.proboards.com/thread/750/1970-buick-gsx-marker-lights http://smcbofphx.proboards.com/thread/1235/70-gsx-tail-light Here is a link to our local forum where I created some marker lights and a clear tail light. You could get grain of wheat bulbs and light them up. They also really make the car look detailed, unfortunately the photos are a bit grainy. I also created the tail light lenses in clear so that the little back up lamp area be left unpainted. Send me a PM if you have any interest in my detail parts. Another detail that seems often overlooked when someone builds this kit is the top outer edge of the front fenders. This sharp edge needs to be sanded down to a curved shape and gets more soft as it gets to the headlights, just sayin'. Here is a photo of my favorite GS convertible. The only one ever built with a Cadillac color. I call it the big Purple Mopar Muncher! If I was rich and had the 200K the seller was asking, I might have sprang for it. It is a 455 Stage 1 four speed car too.

Great job so far. I do like Buicks!

Hi Glen. Good to see you here. Hope you are actually learning to do some resin casting on your own.

Hey Johnathon, Bringing some finished parts to a meeting might be a great incentive. I have not been involved in the clubs much lately, I am certain I have been missing a lot of fun. Dwayne and I have talked on the phone a few times about this project. He has allowed me the honor of working with him on this one and I am hoping for more in the future. A price has not been set yet. I am in hopes that Mike Schnur will lend his expert hands with creating a vacuum form window glass set. Once I have the project in hand I plan to post photos on our local forums as usual. Doing this and still working a forty hour week keeps me tired. Paul asked about a station wagon version. Perhaps Mike will think about that one.

WOW, Dwayne, Those door mirrors and hood ornament look really good. This whole project is very nice. You have put lots of effort into this master. It will be nice to get it into the mold making process too.

Yes, The GNX is a kit from the HIGH PERFORMACE SERIES. It is 1:24 scale. These were the fastest factory production cars from those years too. Corvettes were a mere snack to this Buick Muscle. Then there were after market companies that developed even better parts that were more efficient and made horse power. http://www.gsnationals.com/buick_gsca.htm Here is a link to the Gran Sport Club Of America. Every year they have a weeks long fun of Buick power and drag racing. I have never been but I bet it's a good time.

https://decalprofx.com/ Hi NJ, Here is a kit you might be able to afford to purchase. This is the only other way I know to get a white decal made. There is a silver chrome color and gold also. There is a learning curve too. This kit becomes somewhat versatile as you could use it to make photo etch parts and temporary tattoos as well as other uses too. You will need a laser printer or a toner generated image. Be certain to stay away from BROTHER brand printers. Pretty much any other brand should work well. I have been able to follow the steps to create the transfer then apply to decal paper then seal it with CRYSTAL CLEAR spray. Then it becomes a typical water slide decal. If you use the dry transfer image by itself then you need to make certain your target of application is right on or you will have to destroy your produced image to remove it and try again. The kit comes with practice images and that is a good thing also. Be certain to take a look at the humor page too. Call or email Frank with questions, he is very helpful.

When I make molds with small parts, I do the following. I take the part and set it on a piece of KLEAN KLAY, a blue colored sulphur free clay. The piece will be of a pyramid shape. The "claying up" of parts is important. This piece will get set on another clay base. What I do once a mold box is made is to mix a small amount of silicone up and pour over small parts. Even if there is a thin film of silicone it will cure quickly. The thin film will keep the part from floating from it's clay stand so that it does not get lost in the mold material. I too learned the hard way. Doing surgery to locate a small rare part in cured silicone and not destroying it in the process is not fun.

https://www.bnamodelworld.com/hobby-tools-supplies-materials-rivets-bolts-nuts?zenid=d190c63c88986fe89129165429bef155 I found this for you in a search.

While I have not read all the posts in this topic, Here is a idea. All the fees that Fleebay and Paypal suck out of my profits, I would far rather be able to use those funds to support this forum and Gregg and the magazine that Gregg struggles to create and get to us. Would it not be like paying for a magazine ad? Certainly if we care enough about the hobby in general, this forum and the magazine, would it not be worth the effort? I believe it would be. There are members here showing items available or soon to be available and people make comments like, "When that is ready I'll take two" OR "I would buy one if you made that" With that said, we are pretty much already selling here. Why even bother voting no? I voted yes. Thank You, Greg

If they would create it with the little Road Runner bird to be glued in the grille it would be really cool.