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Any one of the three would be great to see built. My interest leans toward the Avenger. one of the reasons is having owned a 1:1 Bradley GT gullwing coupe kit car in the early '80's.

Just remove the fake front fender gills on the '69 COPO Nova and you would be very close. That kit has both a bench seat and buckets so you could make a 396SS also.

Like the old saying, "Dare to be different".

In addition to all the beautiful looking finishes, the operating lights and open doors really make this something special.

Beautiful looking black paint job. I never considered cutting the top off this model but after seeing this I may consider doing this as well. I like the color contrast between the interior and the body.

Beautiful looking paint work. I also think it looks cleaner without the contrasting hood color.

I can see why Chrysler used that color on a display vehicle. The paint works looks great and I like the clean trim. I agree with you on the Jo-Han models, they would be nice to have some of them back as no other kit maker has offered the selection from that time period since.

Looks great. A veery believable looking set up.

A member, I don't remember who, posted an idea he was using to find dropped parts. He used a vacuum cleaner with the hose attachment and covered the end with a nylon stocking. He would run this over the area and the suction would pick up the dropped part and the stocking would keep the vacuum cleaner from eating the part. One thing I have done in the past is to get one of those Carpet Savers that go under a desk in an office to use under my desk that I use. This at least made it somewhat easier to find things. A tip, the part will tend to land around the base of the desk feet as it will make a slight low spot on the plastic saver under the desk.

Your spray booth looks a lot like the one I bought a few years ago. The filters are a unique size and seem a little overpriced to me. I have been using filter material that I pick up at Home Depot. They offer a couple of different materials that you can cut to size and that is what I have been using for a long time. Raoul Ross' suggestion is the same type of material offered by Micro Mark but at a much lower price. I've been accused of being cheap so my go too place for almost everything has been Home Depot. I also use the different sized heater ducts they offer to route the exhaust from the spray booth as well. I hope you didn't go by their illustration for the exhaust fan especially if you're spraying any lacquer paints.

Opossum Jerky just doesn't seem as appealing all of a sudden. Slim Jim was always a little juicier than the dried shoe leather type stuff sold by others.

Great looking shade of blue. The interior looks great as well. I like the fall background in the pictures.

All this talk about food makes me think some Slim Jim Beef Jerky and a Beer may be the answer.

Great looking Diorama. You really captured the look of the car after the roll over.

Great looking color and nice finish. I like the wheels and the clean trim work.

Isn't wiring an engine fun though? Very rewarding in the end. Great job.

Depending on what you have in mind, think about a multi carb or even turbo charged in line.

Thanks for the info. I had no idea that anyone would want to spend this kind of money on an old GEO.

Nice looking floor pan conversion.

Good idea for adapting the wheels. Looks like you may have a V8 lurking on the bench.

I like the different color and the interior looks good. You asked about ideas for the side Bel Air treatment. I think this kit has the ribbed style molding on the body. Since this isn't a chrome finish on the 1:1 car you might paint that area with an Aluminum type finish paint or even a Stainless-Steel type of finish. On the 1:1 cars this would have a polished finish on the tops of the ribs running the length of the insert. You could try and touch the ribs with a chrome pen or a sharpy maybe. Depending on your patience level you could also use masking tape to cover the painted area of the insert and spray paint one of the spray chrome paints. The raised ridges were not chrome on the original car but sort of a polished aluminum. Just an idea.

Perfect starting point as the Corvette looks like it didn't even get painted. Great looking wheels.

While not big on the T-Birds in general, I still appreciate when a manufacture produces something along these lines. This should be both practical to own and fun to drive. The previous owner must have loved their music. The paint looks like a good going over with some clay magic and some of the new nano wax products.

Good thing he has a few spares around. Looking at the right rear I'm thinking he may be looking for some place the change tires. I would like to know what all has been done to the chassis, since this is a unibody car, and the engine. The stock engine could barely get out of its own way let alone pull these large diameter tires. Maybe a chassis and drive train swap with a factory 4X4 of some sort?

I like this tutorial on the use of a "Wood Burner". I'll be trying this myself at some time in the future based on what I have seen here. As an aside, I remember building the AMT '62 Bel Air hardtop when it first came out. I built the kit as a version of the #4 car driven by Rex White. As mentioned, the wheel wells needed to be flared a little. Not to the extent of the Charger in the film, but just a slight bulge around the stock wheel well openings. Like the described technique I used my fingers and thumb to shape the plastic body. I was trying to spread the heat over a wide area in hopes of getting a uniform bulge in the fender. My heat source was a light bulb in a table lamp. I do not recommend this technique. While I accomplished the effect I was after it was done at the expense of the feeling in my thumb and fingertips. They were both very tender for some time after.