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Really clean looking Falcon. As for the left overs, i wouldn't let anything happen to the bed portion. Think of all the small bodied car models you could convert with it.

The stripes were the style of the day for many Drag Cars.

Pre painting a part that is part of a subassembly usually isn't the best way to go. Most parts that have to be glued to another usually need some truing of the surfaces and even a seem that will need a small amount of filling to hide the seem between them. Any paint on the meeting surfaces will weaken the bond between them and as you're finding you usually have to repaint the parts anyway.

This is why Dogs are often called man's best friend. All they ever want to do is please.

Beautiful looking livery and decals.

Great looking color and I like the mild custom look. What did you use for your bed cover ?

A lot of style for a work truck in the era. Aero dynamic looking.

Unless it would hamper your ability to handle the furniture parts try some leather gloves. There are many in the home depot type garden areas.

Thanks for the info. I like the new setting.

Great clean looking build. Your detail paint effects give a very realistic look.

I like the wood grain effect on the body sides. Nice paint work as well.

I like the way the patterns and colors work together on these. Had to take forever to mask these.

These are great looking cars from that era. I wonder if Revell will offer them here? I also like the Red Convertible Sedan.

I like the way you created the under Hood and Trunk Lid reinforcement detailing.

I use a work light that has a large magnifying glass in the center and a light around the edge. This mounts to the edge of my work desk and has adjustability so that it can be moved around the work area as needed. I got mine at Office Depot a long time ago and I think you can find them on line now at a much better price.

Foiling can be a a frustrating experience, but also rewarding. Try outlining all of the trim with a #11 just before the first coat of primer. What this will due is give you an edge that you should be able to follow when it comes time for foiling. I would still use some tape to help protect the body paint as well as cleaner removal of unwanted foil.

Unless you have some orange peal, which I can't see in your pictures, you may not need the Course compound. Suggest trying the Fine compound first in a test area. Their Course can cut through paint pretty good and you wouldn't want to get into the color coat anymore than you need to. Your Black paint job looks pretty smooth in the photos.

Interesting looking extended or crew cab towing the gas tanker.

Sorry no pictures. Didn't think it would be a good idea at 70 mph plus on a four lane divided highway. The first was one of Chevrolet's new small CUV's. The body had a bright blue finish like you would see on a mid-fifties car. The other was chasing me on the highway and I couldn't tell from the day time running lights what it was. Turned out to be a new Broncho Sport. I'm not a big Ford fan but I think they'll be able to sell all of these that they can build. Sits a little lower than a Wangler and somewhat smaller.

Great looking build, any more pictures ?

Still a beautiful looking Mercury.

Thanks. I haven't bought anything from him in a long time but remember that he offered real good products.

I think Kitchen Resin offered one. Check the Resin section for a list of many suppliers.

Tooth picks work great for battery caps and lug nuts and so many other very small details.

The engine looks great. A thought on the plug wire holes in the engine. I will usually try the wire I'm using for the plug wires in the holes in my drill bit holder until I find the one that they just fit in. After painting the engine the wires will be real snug but you can use the bit to open the hole just enough for the wire to fit. Plug wires sizes can vary between suppliers so this has worked best for myself.