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I remember sending in several of these back then. No I don't remember them ever offering any of my suggestions,

Any good Hobby Shop or even Hobby Lobby should be able to provide you with the vice it's self. The tool I rely on has a small clear plastic dome over a black colored base and has drill bit sizes from #80 or 0135 thru # 61 or 039. This should give you several size options depending on the size of your fuel lines. My other option is a couple of different somewhat larger pin vices that contain some slightly larger bits in the handle.

Some great looking kits and paints. The wheels on the Chevelle kit box represent the optional hub caps that Chevrolet started offering with the '65 Chevelle SS 396 model. They were a very convincing looking wheel cover and weighed almost as much as the wheel it's self.

I did this one several years ago. I built it Out of Box. I think it's a great kit and is a good base if you should want to go for a super detailed build as well.

There are many different companies offering some very nice Pin Vice sets. Most of them are offered in different size ranges. I have two different sized vices and depending on the size of the bit I use decides which vice I use.

Lately I have used the Tamiya Panel Line Accent product to define the body gapes. I'll use this between the final color coats of paint but before applying the clear coat. I have used both their black and the gray and they offer a few other colors. This has worked well for the most part but in some cases it looks out of scale or to dark and unrealistic. What I'm going to try on my next build is to use the body color with a little black paint mixed in or even a darker shade of what ever color I'm using.

I had to do some paint touch up around the house. I keep the left over paint in the basement with the name of the room and when it was applied written on the lid. I started stirring the paint with one of the paint stores wooden stir sticks when I felt what I thought was some paint pigment built up on the floor of the can. I managed to get it to mix in with the paint and it was all looking like new paint ready to use. Fortunately the touch up was for one of the posts supporting the deck. As I put the brush in the can for more paint I notice what looks like some dribbles of white paint on the concrete slab of the lower deck where I'm standing. I lift the paint can and it's slowly leaking from the bottom of the can. Seems that newer cans used for house paint doesn't last much more than 3 or 4 years. The lump I was mixing off the bottom of the paint can was actually rust and I was knocking the rust loose that allowed the bottom of the can to start leaking. I set the now leaking can down in the plastic liner of the trash can and finished my touch up and then sealed the lid on the can again. I spent a couple of hours with the power washer getting the paint off of the concrete before it dried.

Might depend on just how bad the door and the door frame is jacked up. The front fender is an easy R & R and maybe fix the mounting points. The big damage appears to be suspension repair and maybe an inner fender. The $2000 replacement offer from your insurance company doesn't sound very realistic unless you have a very big deductible.

Glad to see you are back working on this Ford. I like the way you detailed the hub caps as it looks better than the decals. The engine and chassis painting looks very realistic.

Yes, but why ?

You need not remind me of the passage of time. When a machine tries to kill you you tend to remember it. While I really liked many things about the '66 it was traded on a new '68 but with disk brakes.

The colors and finishes are very realistic looking.

Great clean looking build. The color still looks orange on my screen. The saddle colored interior looks correct also.

The color combination looks great and much like an OEM combination at that time. Nice looking trim .

I like the nice showroom stock looking build. Great smooth looking paint.

I had a new '66 Impala SS and this was the year before they offered dick breaks. I was living in a somewhat mountainous area and the standard brakes would fade very quickly with any fast driving. My solution at the time was to add a set of these linings. As I mentioned I would do my best Fred Flintstone impression until the brakes would heat up, after that they worked great.

Does anyone else like the Subaru commercials with the dog family in them. ?

Those brakes worked their best after a few stops as you had to get some heat in the linings before they were really effective. Prior to that happening you were better off doing your best "Fred Flintstone" impression draging your feet to stop.

I enjoyed watching you put this one together. The gloss paint finish didn't turn out the way you wanted but like Tom mentioned it looks great on this one. Hope Revell come up with a windshield for you, if not just add a rock chip to the windshield maybe.

Wild looking body and the paint really stands out.

Great looking build. Well detailed trim and paint.

Great looking Camaro and I like the interesting back story.

Your second paint job looks so much better.

Glad to see you're back getting after this one.

I like the way you're sectioning this body.