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I have to agree, who ever created this isn't the sharpest crayon in the box. On TV in this area anyway, I think we have more Ambulance Chasers, Home Flippers, and all sorts of woodland creatures telling me to buy their Insurance. I checked around on Home and Auto Insurance this last month when we got the great news about how much more our premiums were going to be and how much less they would cover and saved us even more by raising our deductibles and reducing our coverage on any type of natural disaster. I checked all of the local agents and even some of the 1-800 people. I have come to the conclusion they just type in your name and address and then quote you a premium with in a $5.99 lunch of one another. The best commercial to me is the Raccoons stealing the garbage truck. Any Raccoon that can spot a half a Cheese Cake in a dark ally in a stolen garbage truck when he's supposed to be looking for the brakes, well I think it's funny anyway.

I'm sorry about the incorrect information I gave you on the engine. Chevrolet started offering the 230 cu.in. 6 Cylinder on the '63 year models followed by the 250 cu.in. 6 Cylinder in '65. I think Rod Halls suggestion of the resin 6 Cylinder for only $10 looks like the best way to go. This would be both cheaper than buying a kit to raid for the engine and the picture on the Web Site looks pretty accurate to me.

You're correct. I'm playing with a '60 Pickup right now and I didn't think about the engine being the incorrect year model or design even.

My reasoning on the fender switch has to do with the universal nature of the sedan Fenders since the grills and hoods are designed to be either a '39 or a '40 standard and the '40 Deluxe. The coupe fenders are '40 Deluxe only. I agree with you if you're building a '39 or a "40 Standard the Revell kit is a much better kit. When this sedan kit was released many years ago it was considered one of the very best of anything you could buy. I still like it along with the '40 Sedan Delivery they released a few years later.

I really like the Flathead engine. I built a '49 Ford F-1 and did it in TS-42 light Gun Metal with some company signage as a tow rig for the Revell Midget & Trailer. Red wheels and the signage was small and also in red. Many of the old Ford colors would look good like the Dark Blue or Green and Maroon. Consider Fire Engine Red as some thing to consider. What ever color you use it's going to look great.

That is a beauty. The paint and interior look just like the 1:1. I also hope for your quick recovery and look forward to see more of your fine builds.

I think one of the Revell '65 or '64 Chevrolet pick ups has a 6 cylinder engine. The old Trumpster Chevy II had one also.

I had a 1:1 Yeoman wagon back when they were not cool. The paint was Forest Service Green with a Gray roof. The engine was the 283 with a 4 barrel, 3 on the tree with Overdrive. With 100k miles plus it didn't use a drop of oil between changes and with the OD you would not believe the top end. Should Round 2 do this Yeoman wagon I would buy one or ten myself.

These almost look like Hover Crafts. I'd like to see some YTube videos of these rigs.

I don't want to upset anyone, but my personal favorite of the two is the forty. I have always wanted to use the fender portion of the '40 Ford coupe on the sedan body. I know trying to align the '39 grill in the fenders and the hood and cowl offers some real challenges Has anyone here tried using the '40 fenders instead ?

I was at HL today and they have a lot of the original issued kits on the shelf now.

I think I might buy one this time around. Just wasn't into the LUV pick up when this kit was first released, but now I'm thinking a nice little small block with a flat hood and road race stance, wheels, and lots of rubber.

Great job so far on your conversion. That rear window area had to be fun.

I have looked for ever for either a Valiant or Lance Hardtop. I always thought I messed up the only one they ever made years ago.

Now keep posting your build. I had an chance to buy a very "cherry" '40 sedan in the mid '60's. I always regret not buying it as I was working on a two owner '46 sedan at the time.

Thank you , I'll have to check it out.

Sorry I've been under my desk looking for a part to the build I'm working on. I have taken all of the unused parts from a build and put them in marked boxes by category. The very small chrome or special engine parts I have been using small plastic baggies and slipping a piece of paper inside giving information about where it came from.

Those Rallys without Hub Caps are the only ones I have ever seen. I have that same Corvette kit and have saved those wheels for some other build. The later 8" wide Corvette wheels were a fairly inexpensive way to up grade the wheels on any 1:1 Chevrolet until the price of some after market wheels became affordable and Corvette restorers started paying stupid money for the 8"ers. I have a set and a half, 6 wheels, that will never sell.

I'm not familiar with this tape, but the finish in the picture looks like the chopped glass strands seen in 1:1 projects with a light coat of the resin sprayed over it. Where would you suggest purchasing some of this tape ?

As mentioned by others, the best chrome finish is usually done over a very smooth surface and preferably done in gloss black. The pens need to be shaken vigorously to mix all of the particles inside the pen.

I like the way this body style looks. The paint really picks up the reflections from around it. Great looking chassis and engine.

You could use some of the nose art from WWII bombers.

That just looks so nice. All of the body lines flow together, almost makes you wonder why Ford didn't do that.

Great looking conversion. I like the tinted band on the windshield. The paint work and the stripes look good together.

Looking back at your pictures it looks like there is a gap between the point where the cowl and the front fenders meet as well as the rear fenders not meeting the body. You mentioned that the bodies bottom edge looked good so I'm wondering if maybe the fender/ running board part might be a little warped. Since you haven't painted it yet you might just soak the fender & running boards in very hot water then bend them ever so slightly and hold them until they cool. I would bend just a little at a time and see if it is helping before you go any further. As for the bending part I would support the area of the running boards at both ends a gently push down on the middle section until it cools. Let use know if this helps.