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Have you looked at the bottom edge of the body where it rests on the running boards ? With age there may be some flash in that area that will keep the body from dropping down on the fenders properly. These used to fit fine years ago.

The last coupe I built, even with a home spun drop axle, the wishbones were on the frame. Probably wouldn't work to well in 1:1, but this is plastic so I do as I please.

I like the paint finish and of course the upgraded power plant.

In that era that is how all of their models were boxed. They just added the end of box seal to indicate what kit was inside. Big heavy splined axles and screws to hold the bottom in place. The bodies were pretty accurate.

Very nice clean looking builds. You have a wide variety of build subjects.

I have to agree with everyone else, this is a truly well done build. Your attention to the minor details that often get over looked sometimes are present. Specifically the little chrome trim on the top of the fins that divides the two colors on a two tone paint.

This looks real sleek. I remember your '36 Pick Up build and it was amazing. I have thought doing something on that order someday. The suspension sounds like you're going to need a big dropped front axle or go to an independent front suspension to keep your ride height. I would bring over as much as you can from the '48 and make a De Lux F-1 out of it.

I think the way the light catches the Metallic in the Black it gives it a flatter finished look. I'm looking at your grill that you mentioned. The Grills appearance might be improved with a little black wash to represent the openings in the grill work, but beyond that the way you saved this is great and I like the way you finished it as a box art. Very cleanly built.

I like the subject of your build. I have two questions for you. You have done your research on this and my question has to do with the doors. Your picture of the real car shows what looks to me anyway is that the drivers door is a sedan door. I'm looking at the white colored metal surrounding the glass. The roof is a Hardtop Roof and the quarter side glass looks like a Hardtop glass and the rear portion of the roof is definitely a Hardtop in shape. As I recall many of these cars were cobbled together with what ever they may have had around the shop. While looking at your new grill, and realizing your still mocking up things at this point, the grill looks flat and the 1:1 grill was raised at the center bar and curved back from there to the top and bottom edge of the grill. opening. The wheels look good and I like your engine and fuel injection set up.

I'm starting to think I should look through some of my kits. I have tried before selling some of my extras at a local Show / Swap Meet and can't get $20 to $25 for older unopened kits with no luck. At this selling price I could stop being worried about draining my 401k and move to the Bahamas.

I have seen where Gofer Racing is offering decal sheets with fictitious company names. They might be a good place to look for a company or resort name for a future build. I like how the owner of the Chevrolet wagon added the fox wood trim to the doors on this.

There is a saying that goes "A fool and their money as soon parted". While this is a very good kit and I have built a couple with plans for another or two, this makes me wonder if the seller isn't bidding against potential buyers in hopes of driving up the price.

Great looking chrome trim and the paint finish looks good also.

Ah, life before cup holders. At that time the glove box door would have round indentations on the inside. When the door was open you could place your drink in the indentations that kept them from sliding off onto the floor.

So many different subjects shown. The detailing on the Military and Air Craft plus the figures is amazing. Beautiful looking Automobile and Truck models with a lot of different paint treatments. I recognize several of the models that I've seen coming together here on the Forum. Thank you for sharing, great show.

I have used pieces of thick spruce from the kit. I cut to length, sand the ends to the desired shape. The ends can either be drilled to except the exhaust pipes or drill and install hollow tubing to replicate a flange and have the exhaust feed into the flange.

This looks better than what GM did with this model years ago. I know styles change from year to year, but this roof looks much better than what GM built.

They're all great looking. I really like Li'l Nasty. Very impressive considering these are made up of what you had floating around from other builds.

The interior looks great and I like the body color as well. What did you use on the body ?

Some times the surface you're going to paint can become contaminated on your way to the spray booth. I'm not sure where your living or your weather conditions, but this can sometimes create a situation were the models body is effected by static electricity and this will attract any dust particles in the air. this can be caused by walking across a carpeted area or if there is low humidity and wind blowing outside even. I also learned from a 1:1 painter a long time ago to not wear and flannel shirts in the area were you're working on getting a surface reedy for painting. Any static electricity will pull in any lose fibers in the air. As pointed out by Steamboat start with a very fine sand paper. You can always go to a courser sand paper if need be but your better off going after this with a very fine sand paper and very light pressure when sanding.

Another possibility would have to do with the age of the decals. Irregular or flat painted surfaces are always problem, but if the decals are old, say 4 to 5 years old, the adhesive on the decal can cause problems much like you have here. I did a model that was even older than that and the decals started to turn almost like there was dirt between the decal and the models body. I wiped away the adhesive with a Q-Tip before applying them to the model. This seemed to work in that case. There was still enough adhesive to hold the decals in place when they dried and I covered them with clear anyway so they look just as good now as when I did this a couple of years ago. Just a possibility.

El Roberto is correct about the in the bottle primer. It works great for what it's designed to do. The cap has a brush attached for application use. Mine didn't last long before it just fell apart. I used a paint brush to do applications after that. My suggestion is to not use a brush you care about since it will be gumnd up after one use. The good news is has saved many of my boo boos.

Just perceiver and don't give up. This will look amazing in the end.

That's what I'm talking about. Very clean looking.

While its "beauty" may be in the eye of the beholder, this is certainly a well preserved kit. Just polish to plastic and add some chrome trim and it would make a great shelf sitter.